Dave cut a 4x8 in half and now have a 8x16 with a 4x8 hole inside. Give me some ideas. I have a left handed o48 and 2 right o36s that I want to incorporate.

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Last edited by Robert Cushman
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Robert, I want to make sure I understand. From what you just said and what I've gathered from past discussions. you have the following:
- 1 LT O72 switch
- 1 RT O72 switch
- 1 LT O48 switch
- 2 RT O36 switches
- various other straights and curves???

I believe you also said at some point that you don't want to buy any more switches. Is that all correct?

If so, here's what I see you working with as far as switches go.

2019-03-26 daz

 

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Sorry, but given the limited number of switches and O72 ovals, I'm not coming up with much. There aren't enough switches to make a double crossover, so that means that once you go from one oval to the other you can't go back without backing up or at least reversing the engine. It's the same with only 1 reversing loop. If you're running diesels that's not so bad, but steamers will be more difficult.

2019-03-26 daz

2019-03-26 daz 3D

 

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Okay, Robert, here's a clean version of you buy the 2 O72s and 1 O48 switches. I noticed you didn't include the O36 switches.

As I'm sure you'll notice, I moved the crossovers to the corners on the curves. This will let you run faster speeds and transition through the crossovers without any hint of "S" curves between the switches. You still have the problem of only 1 reversing loop, but at least you'll be able to transition back and forth between mainlines.

2019-03-26 daz-a2019-03-26 daz-a3D2019-03-26 daz-a-clear

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That's a good way to use what you have and looks like it will work. I'd probably change the 1 3/8, O48 7.5, 1 3/8 and 10 segment following the O48 switch to a 1 3/8, O48 7.5, 1 3/8, 4.5 and 5 for a little better fitment. Of course, there might be enough give for either combination to work.

I believe most say the rigid foam doesn’t do much if anything about track noise, it’s mostly for landscaping. Some use carpet padding, others use ceiling tile, carpet, etc. The foam added to the noise level with my RealTrax.

I have no experience wit anything but the foam that I used on my Christmas layouts. I intend to switch to GarGraves or Atlas this summer, assuming something doesn’t set me back again.

Would putting MTH catenary work on the outer ring if so how many sets would I need? I think they come in 8 packs and spread 20” between posts.

If this is the design you built, the outside Blue line is just over 504". A catenary set with 8 poles/wires is 160" and a set with 4 poles/wires is 80".  Therefore you'd need 3 sets of 8 and 1 set of 4 to give you 560". However, if you added the Gold spur, it's another 120" making the total 624" and you'd need 4 sets of 8 to give you 640", assuming you want to cover both the Blue and Gold lines. I think the calculations are correct, but I could be mistaken.

test

 

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Robert Cushman posted:

I guess the hard part would be finding it now. 

It looks like JustTrains in Delaware may have some 40-1035 (8) and 40-1036 (4 add-on).

Do you want that for Amtrak engine?  Build your own Northeast Corridor...

Robert Cushman posted:

also what is the distance between posts on the catenary?

Well, the wires are 20”, so on the straights the posts would be 20” apart. However, because they’re outside the outer ring, the arc will be a little larger than the center rail of the tracks, so they’ll be a bit further apart on the curves, but it won’t be by much.

Looks like their out of stock everywhere and not making because the lack of orders eventhouhh they’re in the new catalog. Talked to MTH and a few dealers. Guess I’m out of luck.

Dave I got some! I'm trying to figure out a way to throw in a different elevated section o36 at minimum for a subway line on the trestles I have. Big thing is that it cant go over the loops because of the pantographs on Acela and GG1. Also I think I forgot how to upload scarms on here again.

 

 

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