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@NJCJOE posted:

So, when I came up with the design for the new layout, I wanted a way to create some cohesiveness between the O gauge and standard gauge portions of the layout, especially since the O gauge crosses directly over the standard gauge. I decided to make the scenery on both layouts similar, realistic and detailed. You can see my intent by the previous post about the river construction.

I decided one way to add some realism to the standard gauge layout was through the use of ballast. Not many people ballast their standard gauge track. During my decision on what to use for ballast, I realized something I always knew but never really had to contend with because my previous layouts were all toy train like layouts. Standard gauge is not set to any scale. Just look at the size between a State set coach verses a Blue Comet coach.

This was something that really challenged me when it came to finding the right ballast. There are some companies that make G scale ballast, but for the amount I needed it would be cost prohibitive. Turkey grit was another possibility. However, all the bags I found locally were opaque, not allowing me to see what it looked like and a lot of poultry grit is pinkish to attract the birds, not something I wanted.

I went into Home Depot and found a bag of stone used for concrete aggregate. There was one bag ripped open on the shelf and even though the stone varied in size, it looked like it would work. I bought a bag and brought it home. The stone was very dirty and had to be rinsed off multiple times. I then took a small section of tack mounted on some scrap Homasote and glued the ballast in place. I was not happy with the result. The stone sizes varied too much for my taste.

Next, I headed over to a local stone center and found some 1B grey stone, which looked like it would work. I purchased two five gallon buckets of the stone. I had to wash this stone as well. After looking it over, I discovered it was the same stone I bought from Home Depot in the bag.

At this point I started to think maybe ballast for the standard gauge is not a good choice. I then came up with the idea of sifting out the small fines and the large stones to see if I could be left with a stone size I was happy with.

This turned out to be a few step process. First, the stone had to be washed. I did this over a piece of aluminum window screen. This flushed out all the fines and stone dust.

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I then dumped the clean stone into a sifting pan I bought from Amazon. I came with different size sieves. I selected a size and sifted the large stones out.

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After sifting the two buckets and one bag of stone, I was left with about two five gallon pails worth of stone.

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The stone was then spread out on a tarp to dry for a few days. I was pretty happy with the ballast and figured it would create the illusion I was looking for, so that is what I went with.

The ballast was poured over the track and sides with a small garden shovel. I then used a paint brush to level it out and get it into place. The ballast was sprayed with wet water (water with a few drops of liquid soap). I then mixed Elmer’s Glue-All glue and water at a ratio of 1 part glue to 3 parts water and poured it over the ballast. It took two applications of the glue, a few days apart, in order to completely glue everything in place. This was due to the size of the ballast and the large voids between pieces. Make sure you use Elmer’s Glue-All and not their School Glue. They are not the same. I used the School Glue on the test piece and could not keep the glue and water mixed.

So, now all the track is ballasted. I used about eight to nine gallons of stone on the layout. I still have about 1-1/2 gallons left over. The total coast for the stone material……..about $16. It took some time and work, but I like the end result.

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You are doing a fantastic job!  Would love to come see it in person some day!

12/23/22 - Not too much has been done recently. Just running trains to make sure everything is working properly before I start the O gauge portion of the layout come the new year.

I did do a little scenery and detail work around the station. It's amazing how sometimes little changes can make a big difference.

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MERRY CHRISTMAS

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NJCJOE, Joe, the red “Mikes Diner” is really a great idea, possibly it’s a standard gauge passenger car body and it makes a good focal point on your awesome layout. To me, tinplate trains and accessories are uniquely nostalgic and make a model railroad colorful and fun to view. Your layout is a work of art. Merry Christmas and Happy Railroading Everyone

1/31/23 - The O gauge portion of the layout has been started. I built the section that goes over the standard gauge layout. This section measures 14'-3" by 3'-7". I constructed this bench work in a box style frame using 1"x3" lumber. The joists are approximately 12" o.c. I built it this way to minimize the O gauge layout height, while providing sufficient clearance for the standard gauge trains. The floor to top of bench work height is approximately 36-1/2". Track risers, roadbed and track will increase this height accordingly.

I installed a bunch of 2"x2" and some 2"x3" legs to support the bench work. A screw was installed into the bottom of each leg from under the standard gauge layout to securely anchor it. There is about 8-1/2" of clearance from the top of the standard gauge track to the bottom of this bench work. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks construction will start on the remaining bench work sections.

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Wow, @NJCJOE, I really like your carpentry work and the grid addition added for your O gauge trains. Your empire is so amazing and this will be the icing on the cake. I think you have an awesome train room and with Tinplate bright colors, your accessories and bridges, signs, it’s uniquely beautiful. I would imagine your Standard gauge and O gauge are mostly Tinplate, so it’s going to be so colorful and you are the Designer. Thank you for the updates and keep pictures coming. Happy Railroading Everyone

@Richie C. the rear rail is not screwed to the wall. There is a slight gap there. I did the same thing with the standard gauge layout. Some people feel attaching to the wall creates more mass and lessens noise, others feel it generates more noise up through the wall. I decided to let it float.

The wiring will either be run down the center underneath through pipe hangers like I did for the standard gauge, except smaller (see photo). Or, I may run the wiring under the standard gauge and pop up to the O gauge where needed.

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@NJCJOE posted:

@Richie C. the rear rail is not screwed to the wall. There is a slight gap there. I did the same thing with the standard gauge layout. Some people feel attaching to the wall creates more mass and lessens noise, others feel it generates more noise up through the wall. I decided to let it float.

The wiring will either be run down the center underneath through pipe hangers like I did for the standard gauge, except smaller (see photo). Or, I may run the wiring under the standard gauge and pop up to the O gauge where needed.

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I think you're right about letting the rear rail float and the pipe hangers are a nice touch.

@NJCJOE posted:

The wiring will either be run down the center underneath through pipe hangers like I did for the standard gauge, except smaller (see photo). Or, I may run the wiring under the standard gauge and pop up to the O gauge where needed.

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I use the pipe / conduit holders as well.  I usually leave one side unscrewed so I can run the wire and then slip it in.  It's a good solution for hanging wire though regardless of 1 or 2 screws..

@NJCJOE posted:

@Richie C. the rear rail is not screwed to the wall. There is a slight gap there. I did the same thing with the standard gauge layout. Some people feel attaching to the wall creates more mass and lessens noise, others feel it generates more noise up through the wall. I decided to let it float.

The wiring will either be run down the center underneath through pipe hangers like I did for the standard gauge, except smaller (see photo). Or, I may run the wiring under the standard gauge and pop up to the O gauge where needed.

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I like your benchwork - fully adequate without waste or needless expense.  I use the conduit hangers too - a cheap and easy way to keep the wiring neat.  My first reaction when seeing that picture is "did I post a view under my layout?".

My tip re the conduit hangers... do the initial installation with only one screw, and leave it slightly loose - makes it easier to install the wires.  After the wiring is done, install the second screw and tighten both of them.

Joe,

First of all, cool new profile photo. Secondly, this looks like a great start to the second part of the your layout. Generally speaking, I like how you have taken us through each phase of your new layout, starting with the beautiful room it's located in. It has been very exciting and educational to watch. My mind can't help but wonder, where will it be at this same time next year. Keep the wonderful work coming.

Dave

Thanks Dave.

It's funny you say that about where the layout progress will be a year from now. Sometimes I feel the progress is moving along slowly. I then have to remind myself that I only started the layout a year ago. So I'm happy with what I have accomplished so far.

BTW, I just back from the lumber yard.......so stay tuned.

2/11/23 - I have about 95% of the O gauge bench work framed up. I still have to frame a low area for a trestle section and add some additional joists and extra leg on the other island. All of the O gauge and standard gauge sections have been connected together with screwed blocking, basically making the whole layout one solid piece. Top of the O gauge joists is set about 36-1/2" above the floor. The O gauge track will be installed over the open grid using strips of plywood road bed and risers. That will be a whole new learning curve for me as I have never done that before.

Fabricating L-girders and leg assemblies in the shop.

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Assembly in the train room.

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Everything buttoned up in place.

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@NJCJOE posted:

2/11/23 - I have about 95% of the O gauge bench work framed up. I still have to frame a low area for a trestle section and add some additional joists and extra leg on the other island. All of the O gauge and standard gauge sections have been connected together with screwed blocking, basically making the whole layout one solid piece. Top of the O gauge joists is set about 36-1/2" above the floor. The O gauge track will be installed over the open grid using strips of plywood road bed and risers. That will be a whole new learning curve for me as I have never done that before.

Fabricating L-girders and leg assemblies in the shop.

20230205_17175220230207_164957

Assembly in the train room.

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Everything buttoned up in place.

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Great work, NJCJOE.

It's fantastic that you retain the ability to run trains while, it looks like, STOCKERTOWN is doubling in size.

Looking forward to more updates

2/14/23 - I finished the framing of the O gauge bench work. This monstrosity........I mean engineering feat of modern construction actually has a purpose. I will be constructing a double track curved trestle at some point. I wanted to provide a low base for the bottom support. Looking back I'm sure I could have come up with an easier way to build this instead of angling all of the framing. However, it will serve the purpose and eventually be covered up.

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I also installed the the pipe hangers for the wiring. Well, I installed most of them until I ran out. Not sure how I miss counted by 13. Oh well, I'm sure I will be back to Home Depot someday.

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3/24/23 - The roadbed for the O gauge track has been cut out. I posted another thread on the Forum asking for other member's opinions on how to make the roadbed since this type of construction is new to me. I got a lot of good information. I ultimately decided to cut the roadbed out of 1/2" birch plywood, following the curves and straights of the layout of the track.

I drew the layout of the roadbed on CAD. I then broke it up into sections where I thought it would lay out the most efficiently on the plywood sheets.

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Then on the computer I took those sections and fit them together on 4'x8' sheets of plywood, arranging them for the best fit and minimizing plywood waste. It worked out that I need four sheets of plywood. Here is a drawing one of the layouts.

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Next, I printed out full size drawings of the plywood layouts. I then cut out each paper piece of roadbed. These paper patterns were laid on top of the plywood sheets and traced with a marker.

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Then it was time to fire up the jig saw. It did take a while to get all the pieces cut out. The roadbed sections were taken downstairs and laid on top of the L-girder benchwork. It took some maneuvering to get everything correctly in place. I still have to do some minor trimming and also add some additional joists where needed.

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Next will be the splices for the roadbed sections and the installation of the riser supports.

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Last edited by NJCJOE
@NJCJOE posted:

3/24/23 - The roadbed for the O gauge track has been cut out. I posted another thread on the Forum asking for other member's opinions on how to make the roadbed since this type of construction is new to me. I got a lot of good information. I ultimately decided to cut the roadbed out of birch plywood, following the curves and straights of the layout of the track.

I drew the layout of the roadbed on CAD. I then broke it up into sections where I thought it would lay out the most efficiently on the plywood sheets.

20230312_161508

Then on the computer I took those sections and fit them together on 4'x8' sheets of plywood, arranging them for the best fit and minimizing plywood waste. It worked out that I need four sheets of plywood. Here is a drawing one of the layouts.

20230312_161424

Next, I printed out full size drawings of the plywood layouts. I then cut out each paper piece of roadbed. These paper patterns were laid on top of the plywood sheets and traced with a marker.

20230312_162327

20230312_16190320230312_16182920230312_16175920230312_161726

Then it was time to fire up the jig saw. It did take a while to get all the pieces cut out. The roadbed sections were taken downstairs and laid on top of the L-girder benchwork. It took some maneuvering to get everything correctly in place. I still have to do some minor trimming and also add some additional joists where needed.

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Next will be the splices for the roadbed sections and the installation of the riser supports.

Wow Joe you’re a one man engineering firm. Very impressive.

Jay

@mike g. posted:

fringe benefits from work! Very cool!

I guess I if needed I could always go to the local printing shop and have them do it! Thanks for the information.

@NJCJOE- great work on the roadbed. A little time spent in CAD saves a lot of time in the shop (and a lot of wasted plywood). I have a 36" wide format printer in my office too. It's only B&W though so I can't print my backdrops on it.

Bob

@NJCJOE posted:

3/24/23 - The roadbed for the O gauge track has been cut out. I posted another thread on the Forum asking for other member's opinions on how to make the roadbed since this type of construction is new to me. I got a lot of good information. I ultimately decided to cut the roadbed out of birch plywood, following the curves and straights of the layout of the track.

I drew the layout of the roadbed on CAD. I then broke it up into sections where I thought it would lay out the most efficiently on the plywood sheets.

20230312_161508

Then on the computer I took those sections and fit them together on 4'x8' sheets of plywood, arranging them for the best fit and minimizing plywood waste. It worked out that I need four sheets of plywood. Here is a drawing one of the layouts.

20230312_161424

Next, I printed out full size drawings of the plywood layouts. I then cut out each paper piece of roadbed. These paper patterns were laid on top of the plywood sheets and traced with a marker.

20230312_162327

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Then it was time to fire up the jig saw. It did take a while to get all the pieces cut out. The roadbed sections were taken downstairs and laid on top of the L-girder benchwork. It took some maneuvering to get everything correctly in place. I still have to do some minor trimming and also add some additional joists where needed.

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Next will be the splices for the roadbed sections and the installation of the riser supports.

Impressive!!!!!

Peter

@NJCJOE posted:

3/24/23 - The roadbed for the O gauge track has been cut out. I posted another thread on the Forum asking for other member's opinions on how to make the roadbed since this type of construction is new to me. I got a lot of good information. I ultimately decided to cut the roadbed out of birch plywood, following the curves and straights of the layout of the track.

I drew the layout of the roadbed on CAD. I then broke it up into sections where I thought it would lay out the most efficiently on the plywood sheets.

20230312_161508

Then on the computer I took those sections and fit them together on 4'x8' sheets of plywood, arranging them for the best fit and minimizing plywood waste. It worked out that I need four sheets of plywood. Here is a drawing one of the layouts.

20230312_161424

Next, I printed out full size drawings of the plywood layouts. I then cut out each paper piece of roadbed. These paper patterns were laid on top of the plywood sheets and traced with a marker.

20230312_16232720230312_161759

Then it was time to fire up the jig saw. It did take a while to get all the pieces cut out. The roadbed sections were taken downstairs and laid on top of the L-girder benchwork. It took some maneuvering to get everything correctly in place. I still have to do some minor trimming and also add some additional joists where needed.20230320_191833

Next will be the splices for the roadbed sections and the installation of the riser supports.

Now THAT is how you build model railroad benchwork! 

You should submit this as an article in OGR.  You've already written most of the text and have great pictures.  It would be a service to your fellow modelers, and you'd make a few hundred bucks.

05/07/23 - The O gauge roadbed installation is complete. It was more work than I had anticipated. A lot of checking and re-checking levels to get everything right. I have a few small grades going from one end of the layout to the other. I was able to keep the maximum grade at around 1-3/4%, most is closer to 1%. I was amazed at how many roadbed splices and risers I need to cut. Here are some of them.

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Once all the sub-roadbed was in place, I covered it with the foam roadbed a lot of the modelers get from the gentlemen on Ebay. The stuff is great. So easy to work with. I did find cutting the section down the middle for the curves made it easier to lay down. This was attached to the plywood sub-roadbed with white glue.

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I'm sure a lot of you have been following corsair29's layout build and deconstruction thread here on the Forum.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...tructon-update4-7-13

Steve is a friend of mine and I had always admired his double track curved trestle he had on his layout. I spent a lot of time over the years studying the trestle and taking pictures of it. When it came time to design my layout, I had decided to incorporate a similar type trestle. So, at the end of one of my islands I left a depressed area for this future structure.

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Well, Steve has started dismantling his layout for a future move. He graciously offered the trestle to me for use on my layout. After  a lot of measuring and tweaking of my layout design, I was finally able to get Steve's trestle to fit my benchwork. I am so excited to have this as part of my layout. Steve and his brother did an amazing job building this structure and I'm honored that it can continue to have trains running across it. Thanks my friend.

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Next up is track laying.

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@NJCJOE posted:

I was amazed at how many roadbed splices and risers I need to cut.

Next up is track laying.

Isn't it amazing how the time to do a planned project expands exponentially!

Well done, Joe.......really exceptional. The fact that you could fit in Steve's trestle is really great.... Steve's layout will live on in yours! Very, very, cool!

Good to see you at York.

Peter

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Nice work Joe, I am still amazed with your skills in building this layout and to have a friend like Steve is like icing on the cake! It just reaffirms the generosity of the members here!

Your layout is definitely going to be one of those layouts that everyone is going to want to visit! Keep up the amazing work!

5/20/23 - Track laying has begun. This is my first time working with Gargraves flex track. It is a bit of a learning curve. However, over the years I have picked up some tips here on the Forum and on the internet that have come in handy. Maybe I should do and article for OGR magazine.

Still a ways to go but progress has been made.

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@NJCJOE posted:

5/20/23 - Track laying has begun. This is my first time working with Gargraves flex track. It is a bit of a learning curve. However, over the years I have picked up some tips here on the Forum and on the internet that have come in handy. Maybe I should do and article for OGR magazine.

Still a ways to go but progress has been made.

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Railroad poetry Joe.

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