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OK, I finally hooked up a pair of my Ross Regular 11, crossover switches in final permanent fashion.
The switch machines are DZ-1000's, and I have both switches operating with one single actuator.
Without the non-derailing wires hooked up to the terminal block, the switches work perfectly, as they both switch, together, to either turnout, or straight thru, and all lights function correctly as well.

However, when I connect the wires from the two straight rails, for non-derailing, to the terminal block, with the other green wires, the lights on the actuator stay dark, and when I push one of the buttons the switches flutter back and forth, and when I push the other button, nothing happens.

I tested this out with alligator clips prior to drilling holes and fishing wires thru the table, and to terminal blocks, and they  worked perfectly. I had the green wires hooked together, the yellow wires hooked together, and the red wires hooked together. When I connected the ground to that opposite rail, then rolled a truck over the straight section of either switch, if it was set to turnout, it switched to straight thru.       

The odd thing is that these rails are completely insulated, so they should have no effect until a truck caries the ground over to that rail.

In the pic below, the red arrows show the connected rails, and the yellow arrows are where these rails are insulated.
The lower rail has an insulator pin installed, and the top one is not connected to anything at all. Also attached is a sketch of my wiring diagram.
Reg11 NonDerailing HookupIMG_1264

Crossover Switch Pairs Wiring Diagram

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Images (4)
  • IMG_1264
  • Reg11 NonDerailing Hookup
  • Crossover Switch Pairs Wiring Diagram
  • Crossover Switch Pairs Wiring Diagram
Last edited by RWL
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@CAPPilot posted:

I have had issues with my #6 switches when the two rails where the blue arrows are pointing are touching, either the rails or the spikes.  Not sure if regular switches have the same issue, but check there.

That must have been the problem. I had removed the spikes at those ends, thinking that I had taken care of that problem, but the actual rail tips must have still been touching. I took a small flat blade screw driver and stuck it between the tips and rotated it both directions to push the apart as much as I could, and now the flutter is gone, and the non-derailing works as it should. I just need to revers the green wires for the yellow wires as it is operating backwards.

Thanks for convincing me to take a closer look at that area.

So, I reversed the thee main yellow and green wires, such that the yellow wires are now jumpered in the terminal block with the two green non-derailing wires, and all works as it should.
You just have to test these switch machine wires for nod-derailing, as there are three different positions for the switch machines on these switches.

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