harmonyards posted:

This is the best thing to do to a 18056......but this is just my opinion, of course.......Pat

What Pittman motor is that?  I would love to do that.  I have this engine and am debating to sell it or upgrade it with ERR and new motor.

Andy

roll_the_dice posted:
harmonyards posted:

This is the best thing to do to a 18056......but this is just my opinion, of course.......Pat

What Pittman motor is that?  I would love to do that.  I have this engine and am debating to sell it or upgrade it with ERR and new motor.

9414B165 is the Pittman part no....this is a 19.1V motor...works very well with ERR cruise and this family of Hudson’s gear ratio....it can creep just as good as any Legacy or DCS engine will...the pic you’ve seen was when it was still under construction....it has a flywheel now, ERR, 4 chuffs, & fan smoke...best thing, amp draws are in the dirt ....even dragging 10 heavyweights........Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

Wow Pat, that is something, that's for sure.

Thanks Dave, I don’t do hack work.....I like clean efficient installs...Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

harmonyards posted:

9414B165 is the Pittman part no....this is a 19.1V motor...works very well with ERR cruise and this family of Hudson’s gear ratio....it can creep just as good as any Legacy or DCS engine will...the pic you’ve seen was when it was still under construction....it has a flywheel now, ERR, 4 chuffs, & fan smoke...best thing, amp draws are in the dirt ....even dragging 10 heavyweights........Pat

Thanks Pat!  I tried finding that motor and had no luck.  Looks like a mfg date of 1999?  Do you know of another motor with same specs?  What would you charge to upgrade mine? LOL

Andy

harmonyards posted:
Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

Wow Pat, that is something, that's for sure.

Thanks Dave, I don’t do hack work.....I like clean efficient installs...Pat

Does that increase the pulling power on it, or is it the same?

Dave, It doubles or triples the pulling power. The tractive effort is no longer limited by the motor, only the weight and wheel grip of the engine. Pittman Power easily pulling 12 cars. Layout limited adding more cars.

Pete

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Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:
harmonyards posted:
Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

Wow Pat, that is something, that's for sure.

Thanks Dave, I don’t do hack work.....I like clean efficient installs...Pat

Does that increase the pulling power on it, or is it the same?

Like Pete said, it’s night and day difference in power, performance, low amp draw, .....if you think my conversions look good, .....Pete’s the master, someday I’ll be as good as him..😉.........Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

Don't believe Pat. He is the master. I have done a total of one Pullmor to Pittman conversion. I am far enough along to say "Look at the choo choo".

Pete

Wow. Well, that is something that I will have to get done. I keep making a list of things that need to get done, and everything is in a holding pattern until my mother's estate gets settled. Just one of those things, hopefully that will get some movement, might have to have a Pittman hooked up for that, lol.

Dave NYC Hudson PRR K4 posted:

How many chuffs per revolution are these Hudson's supposed to have?

Any Hudson would have 4....Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

Rickw2 posted:

I also have a 6-18056 Hudson. I'm the original owner. It ran great when new, but noisy compared to current engines mostly because of the Pulmore. I love the looks of the Vandy tender even though it's not proto. It's been in storage for over 10 years and I want to start running it again.

I have a question about lubrication. Do I have to take the engine apart to grease the gears, or can I just turn it over and get to the gears that way. Of course, I'll oil the wheels and rods. Also, do you think it'll run on 036 or do I need at least 042? Thanks!

OK, I oiled the axles and rods, but I have a question about grease. Exactly where do I grease the gears? The manual points to this screw that says grease and others. Do I take the screw off, apply grease, then replace the screw? I just don't know. Help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Rickw2 posted:
Rickw2 posted:

I also have a 6-18056 Hudson. I'm the original owner. It ran great when new, but noisy compared to current engines mostly because of the Pulmore. I love the looks of the Vandy tender even though it's not proto. It's been in storage for over 10 years and I want to start running it again.

I have a question about lubrication. Do I have to take the engine apart to grease the gears, or can I just turn it over and get to the gears that way. Of course, I'll oil the wheels and rods. Also, do you think it'll run on 036 or do I need at least 042? Thanks!

OK, I oiled the axles and rods, but I have a question about grease. Exactly where do I grease the gears? The manual points to this screw that says grease and others. Do I take the screw off, apply grease, then replace the screw? I just don't know. Help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Take the screw out, set it to the side, be mindful of any tiny gaskets attached to the screw, or still stuck on the locomotive. Use a syringe, or a pin greaser, or a tiny tube of grease, and squeeze a tiny bit into the first and last plugs. The center plug is the gear well. Give it a good couple pumps....use your favorite grease, I’m not starting that debate over again...wipe any excess, and reinstall the plugs....they just need to be snug, not 3 grunt tight....a 1/10th of a grunt......😄.......Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

harmonyards posted:
Rickw2 posted:
Rickw2 posted:

I also have a 6-18056 Hudson. I'm the original owner. It ran great when new, but noisy compared to current engines mostly because of the Pulmore. I love the looks of the Vandy tender even though it's not proto. It's been in storage for over 10 years and I want to start running it again.

I have a question about lubrication. Do I have to take the engine apart to grease the gears, or can I just turn it over and get to the gears that way. Of course, I'll oil the wheels and rods. Also, do you think it'll run on 036 or do I need at least 042? Thanks!

OK, I oiled the axles and rods, but I have a question about grease. Exactly where do I grease the gears? The manual points to this screw that says grease and others. Do I take the screw off, apply grease, then replace the screw? I just don't know. Help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Take the screw out, set it to the side, be mindful of any tiny gaskets attached to the screw, or still stuck on the locomotive. Use a syringe, or a pin greaser, or a tiny tube of grease, and squeeze a tiny bit into the first and last plugs. The center plug is the gear well. Give it a good couple pumps....use your favorite grease, I’m not starting that debate over again...wipe any excess, and reinstall the plugs....they just need to be snug, not 3 grunt tight....a 1/10th of a grunt......😄.......Pat

Many thanks Pat. I know it seems simple, but the manual isn't clear about it and I don't want to mess it up. I have been using MTH grease, but I'm open to suggestions. The MTH tube isn't small enough to do what you wrote about the first and third plugs. I'm not aware of any debates over grease so whatever you say is good for me. Thanks again.

The MTH grease is just fine.....you can find cheap medicine type syringes at drug stores, or Wally World......Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

Without sparking a forum debate, is Labelle 106 grease acceptable for the 763e Hudson's gears and any other O scale loco?

Last edited by Rickw2
Rickw2 posted:

Without sparking a forum debate, is Labelle 106 grease acceptable for the 763e Hudson and any other O scale loco?

Yes, that will be fine as well......put grease in the search engine....the page will explode with threads about this subject.....Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

@Rickw2 since the gears in your 763 are metal, you could use pretty much any grease with no risk of causing harm.  Lubriplate, automotive moly grease, etc., would all work.  The Labelle is especially good for nylon gears because it won't melt them or make them get gummy.

By the way, looking at your photo... is that a crack in your chassis running across the gearbox?  There has been a lot of discussion about zinc pest on the forum.  I wasn't aware of any Lionel pieces from the mid-'90s that were affected, and for your sake I hope it's not the start of something very bad!

Last edited by Ted S
Ted S posted:

@Rickw2 since the gears in your 763 are metal, you could use pretty much any grease with no risk of causing harm.  Lubriplate, automotive moly grease, etc., would all work.  The Labelle is especially good for nylon gears because it won't melt them or make them get gummy.

By the way, looking at your photo... is that a crack in your chassis running across the gearbox?  There has been a lot of discussion about zinc pest on the forum.  I wasn't aware of any Lionel pieces from the mid-'90s that were affected, and for your sake I hope it's not the start of something very bad!

I can promise you that ain’t a crack Ted, it’s just the way the chassis is cast....I have quite a few  763’s and they all  have those funny casting irregularities in them.....my theory on that is, they just don’t put as much emphasis on making the chassis as smooth as they would the shell...75% of the chassis you don’t see anyways..........Pat

 

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

Ted S posted:

@Rickw2 since the gears in your 763 are metal, you could use pretty much any grease with no risk of causing harm.  Lubriplate, automotive moly grease, etc., would all work.  The Labelle is especially good for nylon gears because it won't melt them or make them get gummy.

By the way, looking at your photo... is that a crack in your chassis running across the gearbox?  There has been a lot of discussion about zinc pest on the forum.  I wasn't aware of any Lionel pieces from the mid-'90s that were affected, and for your sake I hope it's not the start of something very bad!

Thank you for your reply. I ordered Labelle 106 as per Pat. Good to know it's good on nylon gears too because I have some of that too. I am the original owner of the Hudson and bought it when new. That irregularity you see has always been there. I always thought it was from manufacturing. Yes, it looks like a crack but I think it's the lighting that makes it stand out and look like that. No it's not cracked.

I never heard of zinc pest. After looking it up, I see how devastating it is. Looks like mostly smaller gauge European models are affected and much earlier than the 90's. I'm glad you pointed it out.

Everyone, I can attest that Pat is truly a master of the Pulmor - Pittman conversion. He's just being modest. He did my CSS (6-18011) and it looks very professional. Lionel should have does this back in the '90s when it was originally manufactured.

Chris

Jayhawk500 posted:

Everyone, I can attest that Pat is truly a master of the Pulmor - Pittman conversion. He's just being modest. He did my CSS (6-18011) and it looks very professional. Lionel should have does this back in the '90s when it was originally manufactured.

Thanks Chris!...I’m really glad yours turned out well!...all the mods you did make my work seem simple....that’s a great CSS engine now...bet it’s a battle tank!.......Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

D500 posted:

 And, these 700E DNA locos are built like household appliances. The gearing is good. The design is almost bullet-proof. Stick with 4-5 car passenger trains or 12-car freights - I can't run more comfortably anyway - and they will serve you well. The 1-chuff/rev can be fixed.

Uh oh, doing a bit more than that.

I don't find the universal motor to be a limitation at all. I might upload a video of it pulling 10 aluminum passenger cars. 

I have the K-Line T1 Berkshire with TMCC and Weaver Pacific with TMCC and those don't stop me from pulling out the warhorse hudson and giving it action. 

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Thanks to all for all your help. Here is my 763e out of the box after over ten long years. That goes for the NYC Heavyweights too.

IMG_0911IMG_0910

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Yes Pat it's running smooth thanks to it's new grease job.  It took a little prodding to get it going at first, but after working it in a little bit, she's on her own. Funny thing, this is the first time I'm running it with power through a DCS TIU. I had it set on 18 volts max which limited the speed. I thought there was something wrong with the engine until I upped the max power to 21 volts which increased her speed. This engine is surely a power hog. I'm a little worried about the constant 21 volts for the light bulbs in the heavyweights. But other than that I'm a happy camper. Thanks again.

Rickw2 posted:

Yes Pat it's running smooth thanks to it's new grease job.  It took a little prodding to get it going at first, but after working it in a little bit, she's on her own. Funny thing, this is the first time I'm running it with power through a DCS TIU. I had it set on 18 volts max which limited the speed. I thought there was something wrong with the engine until I upped the max power to 21 volts which increased her speed. This engine is surely a power hog. I'm a little worried about the constant 21 volts for the light bulbs in the heavyweights. But other than that I'm a happy camper. Thanks again.

Yep!..the ol’ Pulmor sure likes the energy....they’re a bit of a hog....beings it’s either hardly been run or never run, I’m sure it needs some breaking in to loosen up....maybe run it with a long freight drag in hopes you can knock down that total voltage....you’ll be eating bulbs like candy at 21 volts....see if she’ll free up some and get that voltage down, or mod those cars with some LED’s and some of GRJ’s constant voltage boards.....keep us up to date.....Pat

The Water Level Route.......You Can Sleep

I ran mine today also for the first time in a LONG time.  Definitely is a power hog, but ran well and the whistle is very nice.  I am switching over to 2 rail so I had to run it before putting it up for sale.  It is such a beautiful engine.

Andy

GG1 2340 posted:

I have a first generation Boston & Albany TMCC. Runs fine, just basic early technology 

Is the B&A Hudson you're referring to 6-18042 which came out on or about 1995?

My 763E Hudson from 1937, I scratch built this tender to run with modern freight cars. My 2 other tenders were both equipped with latch couplers.

PC060046PC060048PC060045

Bill T.

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