on-Board Power distribution boards for Non Powered units.

It would work fine but I would go with version without the LED which would light the interior of your shell.  If you want DC you will need a rectifier on the input.

You can light an LED with AC using a diode and resistor.  Evans Designs and others sell them ready to go.

At 90mm (3.5”) this will occupy a fair chunk of floor space and 12 connections seems like a lot.  I agree with keeping it neat which, makes working in it easier, but I would consider some 4” wire ties to bundle the wires to a central connection point.  Also consider that things attached to your shell will need a plug/socket with x number of pins so you can separate the shell from the chassis.

I don’t know how far you want to go into this or how you run your trains but checkout this thread for a board for a whole slew of options.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...-motherboard-project

If not I’d recommend putting a rectifier in for any LED’s. If you run DCS it’s also recommend to add a 22uh choke from center rail so the anything in the engine does not degrade DCS signal

@prrhorseshoecurve posted:

In trying to make my  Non powered units a bit more than empty shells on wheels, I am looking at some this power distribution boards to connect multiple LEd s for headlights, instrument lights and sound systems. Would these work? They appear to be thin enough for hood units:

How are the lights and sound going to be controlled?

I run conventional so simple underbody mfg spec stsp switches will direct lights and sound on and off. Nothing complicated.

However I may install a few of Gunrunners boards to see what they can do conventionally.

@Danr posted:

It would work fine but I would go with version without the LED which would light the interior of your shell.  If you want DC you will need a rectifier on the input.

You can light an LED with AC using a diode and resistor.  Evans Designs and others sell them ready to go.

At 90mm (3.5”) this will occupy a fair chunk of floor space and 12 connections seems like a lot.  I agree with keeping it neat which, makes working in it easier, but I would consider some 4” wire ties to bundle the wires to a central connection point.  Also consider that things attached to your shell will need a plug/socket with x number of pins so you can separate the shell from the chassis.

Yep. I have those rc red connectors to help detach the shell from the body for any servicing.

I've standardized on JST-EH connectors for my shell to frame wiring on upgrades.  They work well, the pins are easy to crimp, and the parts are dirt cheap.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I've standardized on JST-EH connectors for my shell to frame wiring on upgrades.  They work well, the pins are easy to crimp, and the parts are dirt cheap.

Does your board work with people who run trains conventional?

The board is a constant current board, so the operating voltage is dependent on the voltage required by the load.  If you have a single LED, or several in parallel, the board will work down to 4-5 VAC on the input.  If you're using something like the 12V LED strips, you need around 10 VAC or 12-14 VDC on the input to fully light the strip.

UPDATE:  Today in the mail I received my order for those boards...

So with each board, one gets plastic stand offs and a mini wood screw. I will use double sided foam tape on the board for my non powered installations. These mini distribution boards easily fit in the long hood portion of the O scale shell!