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I wanted to fix a minor paint flaw in the last of LIONEL 15" dome coaches I'm painting in Northern Pacific North Coast Limited livery before I applied the clear coat finish.

Being excessively thrifty, I did not use the Tamiya tape I had on hand and used the blue 3M painter's tape, instead.

NP NCL 558 disaster 1 [2)NP NCL 558 disaster 2 [2)

Fortunately, I had plenty of paint and decals available to redo 558 and will shortly apply the clear coat, albeit later than I'd had planned.

PS:  The paint flaw was fixed, successfully -- but the effort failed.

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Last edited by Rich Melvin
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@T.Albers posted:

Ouch!  that 3M blue tape was brutal on those decals!   Glad to hear you have more decals and can recover.

Ditto from me. Masking is not something I have ever come anywhere close to mastering. And wanting to re-do or improve on first efforts is a real hazard!

P.S. You've mentioned the NP domes before and it is nice to see them taking shape. Fine job, Carl.

Last edited by Hancock52

A tip for all of your next painting endeavors requiring delicate masking, and or multiple colors/striping……3M’s fine line tape part # 06525 is a paper tape, that is not overly aggressive…..3M’s blue painter’s tape is really designed for the latex world ( house painting as we call it) and is very aggressive. Also, use as minimal tape contact to the work piece as possible. I make masks from printer paper for the model railroad stuff, so even 1/4” tape is only on the work piece no more than half. The other trick is to never try to pull straight up on your mask, but roll it back on itself, as you remove the mask, Your workpiece should be properly abated before any top coats are applied, and this will greatly reduce the risk of lift off of top colors. Your base should be abated before primers are applied, then if working on top of primers, they too should be abated before applying any top coat. Paint will not stick to a smooth, slick surface…..period, ….if you attempt to mask a painted surface that’s not properly prepped, you’re almost guaranteed the dreaded lift off,….below pic is 3 different colors and lettering applied in the above mentioned manner,…note the crisp lines, and bold lettering, and as near factory finish as one can get in a DIY setting,…..

Pat D04C97D4-88F5-4853-87A9-F0108B8813FA

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I really admire your efforts to repaint those Lionel 15" cars. I could never do that. A number of years ago I picked up a set of K-Line aluminum 15" NCL cars (with engines), one of my all-time favorite paint schemes. Obviously much easier than painting and decaling a set! I hope you post some photos of your set when you have it completed.

2021-09-18 001

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  • 2021-09-18 001
@harmonyards posted:

Your workpiece should be properly abated before any top coats are applied, and this will greatly reduce the risk of lift off of top colors. Your base should be abated before primers are applied, then if working on top of primers, they too should be abated before applying any top coat. Paint will not stick to a smooth, slick surface…..period, ….if you attempt to mask a painted surface that’s not properly prepped, you’re almost guaranteed the dreaded lift off,….below pic is 3 different colors and lettering applied in the above mentioned manner,…note the crisp lines, and bold lettering, and as near factory finish as one can get in a DIY setting,…..

Pat

I am probably the only one, but I don't understand the word "abated" used in this context.   Could you please explain?  Thanks,  NH Joe

I am probably the only one, but I don't understand the word "abated" used in this context.   Could you please explain?  Thanks,  NH Joe

Sanded or lightly scratched surface, ….I’m a firm believer in a mechanical bond between layers. Paint applied to a slick surface will almost guaranteed lift off with barely any effort, let alone tape pulling on it ……on plastic model shells, such as freight and passenger cars, gray scotchbrite and a scrub with soap & water is sufficient to prep a surface for new paint,…..an abated surface is one that is lightly scratched, ( in our cases 800 grit or finer) completely deglossed, and ready for top coat,…

Pat

I've got the passenger set, but need to paint some F3 shells to match using light and dark green. What paint mfg and colors did you use? Anyone?

Scalecoat II NP Light Green, #2060 and NP Dark Green #2061 from Minuteman Scale Models.

@VistaDomeScott thanks for the compliment.  I used a dull coat finish when I painted the original four cars and LIONEL PW F-3A and B units 25+ years ago and will do so again.  But man oh man, these four and the baggage car look good to me in gloss SCII finish.

Last edited by Pingman

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