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Mike, I believe your film is great and pic in a pic,. new to me. They well worth the money YOU spent. And for quantity, 3 is just the right number for todays trains. Like UP,  two up front and one in the rear.  I don't know who started that as I like a caboose in the follow position but those days are now history. Good you live near a club layout as one doesn't have to find the room to build a layout. Hope you don't have to haul all your trains you run but are able to have a locker to store your cars you wish to operate.

 

Phil   

 I see you guy's pictures. I'm looking for a clear shot of the two cooling fans on the rear top. I'm trying to build them in G scale and I'm struggling to recreate them. I have a good pick of the real one and I'm wondering how Overland did it?

 Here's my latest attempt that looks crude. I have to glue the new top on. The center circle is too big and there's not enough fins. There's a ring around the fins that's applied on top and I cast it inside.

 

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Mike, fantastic photos and video.
 
Originally Posted by pitogo:

A video of the trio running. 

 

 And a quick follow up, after some investigation I found the cause. The tower gearbox on the lead truck in 4837 has a good wobble and source of the buzzing.  The other gear towers and gear boxes look to run smoothly and are relatively quiet.  The problematic gearbox also felt warm to the touch compared to the others after some running.  I'll likely have to place an order for some spare parts to fix the issue and get her back running on the rails.  For now enjoy the above.

 

Was hoping you would make a video, thanks!
 
I will have two Overland CSX SD70ACe's, road # 4831 from the 1st run, and (road # 4847--right now in transit via UPS).  Still need to wire them up to do proper testing.
 
 
Originally Posted by pitogo:

A video of the trio running. 

 

 

 And a quick follow up, after some investigation I found the cause. The tower gearbox on the lead truck in 4837 has a good wobble and source of the buzzing.  The other gear towers and gear boxes look to run smoothly and are relatively quiet.  The problematic gearbox also felt warm to the touch compared to the others after some running.  I'll likely have to place an order for some spare parts to fix the issue and get her back running on the rails.  For now enjoy the above.

 

 Wow!! Thank you for those pictures. I know, I'm overusing the wow factor. If you were building one of these, you'd be amazed at how good a job they've done.

 Anymore real, and they'd blow air to cool the operator.

I should add, I'm amazed at how well the MTH models are. I built a 1/32 scale version and was harassed when I put it on a MTH frame. I never intended to do that. I built the shell to scale dimensions from published drawings. The shell fit right onto the MTH version so they must have been built faithfully to scale too.

 Now I know that this brass O scale version is better. I'm just adding that for the money, O gauge is coming a long way towards realism and I'm happy with mine overall. I think every modeler picks what level of detail they can be happy with. I think we can all appreciate this level of detail.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

The fans on the OMI are fixed solid inside.  

 

4837 is back on the rails, noise fixed by reassembling the gearbox.  Turns out there was plenty of light blue grease but not enough hitting the high speed input shaft axle and thrust bearings.  I spreaded the grease all around every shaft and gear, now it's quiet and the reassembly looks to have also cured the wobble.  

These models are very well built, the drive looks solid and I'm sure they'll give me plenty years of service.  My issue is something that is very hard to test for in every model built-long continuous high speed running under load-but easily fixed. 

 

Next at up find some donor MTH PS3.0 locos and gut them.

Last edited by pitogo

Some more photos,  sorry for the iPhone pics, I need to charge my camera:

 

 

 

 

 

Prototype photo im using:

 

...still need to do the rear.  I took mine to a shop over the weekend that is able to run their 2 rail loops on straight DC to test it out.  It performed flawless and run very smooth, ESP for straight DC.  As pitogo mentioned it is not a strong puller, i got some wheel slip quite easily.  I think adding more weight (electronics+speaker(s)+smoke unit(if there is room) will help the cause.  The owner put some bullfrog snot on the wheels which helped alot.  He also said that a MTH service center can source the boards needed for ps3 as parts, not a kit.  I haven't made that call yet so I'm not sure.  I'll keep updating...

Last edited by NSPirate

Mike, those csx units are awesome!  Out of curiosity, could you use the ps3 decoders that are in the mth ho scale versions?  I would like to upgrade all of my locomotives to ps3, and I was wondering if this would work.  Either that or get on of the many rail king sd70aces off eBay and gut it.  I just saw one for $199.  You could possibly resell the loco as a nonpowered unit recovering some of the cost.

 

paul 

 

I was going to say: that last face shot of the NS unit is what I'm looking for... then I realized it was the real thing.

 

Nothing I've seen so far, re: O scale models, hits that mark. That's what I'd be expecting, if I shelled out nearly $3000.00 per unit.

 

BTW, excellent mug shot... 2776.

 

Also, the black and white NS livery seems perfectly suited for modern six motor freight units.

 

 

Rick

Last edited by Rick B.

 Rick, I am not cracking on you. Your logic seems off. Of course the real one dwarfs you and you feel the dimensions.

 It reminds me of G scale where guys want 1/29 or larger running on 1/32 scale track gauge. They want the bang for the buck?

 Me, I appreciate the correct dimensions. I know my eyes aren't seeing as wide as the model looks, next to the real thing which dwarfs my head.

 Maybe try putting the model on track up on the table. Close one eye and get down at track level where your head would be in real life. (Remember this thing is like 16' tall right?)

 I'd bet if the table was outside in the sunlight and the camera took the right background, this thing would look alive!

 I would bet, that Overland got the dimensions right. I wouldn't want them to balloon the thing to impress a few?

 Watching Mike's video and seeing these pictures, makes me appreciate how well they captured this beast.

 I'm happy with the MTH ones I've got overall. I can see the differences. I can't tell someone else what those differences are worth.

I'd buy these models if I could.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe
Studio shots or even staging like the article from the latest OGR issue. It has a photography how-to for realistic looking shots.  I'll have to put my macro lenses on, setup a diorama, good lighting and find the correct field of view/zoom and I should be able to replicate it.   I know others have and some have done such great jobs the make the 3rd rail disappear like Norm C., Dave C., and Patrick H on the three rail forums. 

It's probably time to also compare to MTH and to the real deal.  I took out my MTH CSX 4839 from 2005 to compare, the differences are gross.

I'm assuming Overland's model has accurate body dimensions; that's not what I'm making reference to, here, it's the noticeable absence of mass that appears model-like, to me.

 

Like I said in one of my first few posts, the "presence" (mass) seems to be missing, when the shape is downsized to O scale.

 

Overland's model's tend to look leaner/thinner; the real unit has a more of a substantial, beefier look. Mass.

 

Think of it this way, if you had a professional football player(6'8" and 310lbs) and a much smaller player(5'6" and 145lbs) but with similar body proportions; probably, nobody would confuse the two, even in pictures.

 

I can't explain it...it just stands out to me.

 

 

I've owned 6 SD70 ACe's, one SD70M-2 and 6 GEVO's(some were scale wheel models) none looked/look real. I've never been truly satisfied... They're okay for what they are.

 

These Overland models, nice as they are, still fall short...

 

 

Rick

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last edited by Rick B.

Michael, can't please everyone. I am in awe of these models and know if presented in the right light they would shine very bright. One, the real shot is from an angle and distance not the same porportions as the model. lighting also plays a part as does any background to trick the eye. I think we have a very jealous railroader here. I know I am and i am not going to be so critical of these models. Models are models and if one wants the real thing then one needs to enlarge his basement and buy one.

I also like the piping that goes to the fans that I don't recall on the MTH models or other. There is some details one can expect to make it run on 2 or 3 rail layouts that a manufacturer has to take into account. These models show the bsiness has come a long way over the years but I am not selling my car to buy 3 or even one. I have enough brass to ride my rails the rest of my life and a few sit on a shelf above my computer so I can enjoy them daily.

 

Now, you start saving for the next set of Es44s when they ever release them.

 

Phil 

I finally received my CN SD70M-2 today. I'm very pleased! Great detail and it ran very nicely out of the box(made it fine around my 54" yard lead coupled to cars). The only gripe is I didn't get the unit # I requested, but it's close enough and not really a big deal. Took a few quick pictures, the CN specific details are done very nicely. I think I'll leave it un-weathered to remind me of the many I had when they were all but brand new. I took a few quick pics, I need to adjust my lights and play with the settings on my camera to get some better shots. One shot is with an MTH C40-8W.

 

CN_Hogger

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Last edited by CN_Hogger

To me, the 2nd CN picture says model or toy; I would never mistake one of these overland models, for the real thing.

 

BTW, my opinion is formed by simply looking at the model itself. You can doctor... when photographing, to help make the model appear more realistic; but, I'd like the model to appear realistic, just by looking at it, in any setting.

 

For me, the missing "presence" is just one of the factors, there are others. I intentionally didn't use the word toy-like, some of you would take that as an insult; but, everything I've seen so far,including my own models, to me, has a toy-like appearance. Nicely crafted toys.

 

I've got two new MTH Premier scale wheels 3.0 GP35's ordered; P&WV and Santa Fe. I'm curious to see how realistic these models will look?

 

High-nose models can appear a bit more massive; but, I just recently traded away my new MTH Premier 3.0 Canadian Pacific Train Master; it only had 6 scale miles logged on it. It was part of the trade for the brand new GP35's.

 

After I receive the GP35's, I don't have any plans for any more new locomotives. That's winding down for me.

 

BTW, the more I became educated, re: the prototypes, the less I enjoyed what I have and what I've seen... It's ironic, I think I actually got more enjoyment during my initial involvement with this hobby. After a while, very few things measured up...

 

 

Rick

 

 

 

 

 

 

Do you have any pictures of something you would find acceptable?  They are models after all.  I don't think any model has the presence of the the real thing.  One of the reasons I switched from HO to O is because the presence factor.  1/32 or 1/29 has even more presence but the pickins are slim and with Aristocraft gone even slimmer.

Originally Posted by pitogo:

Thank you.  Weathering has begun on the OMI units.   Also I discovered a switch to turn off the lights for the trailing units in a consist.  Also Happy New Year!!

 

You are a brave man.  I didn't know there was such a light switch, gotta go find that.

 

Pics of the weathered units requested!

Rick B. Love your persistance on running down someones joy in owning a very nice model. MODEL, It isn't real and doesn't pretend to be. Please tell us about your real models. It sounds like you are just upset that something that cost much more should be near real. Well, if it was near real it would be a lot lot more than just that 2K. One reason they cost so much is that is a limited run and made of brass. Brass is a way of making models in limited runs that few can get from those more mass produced plastic. I own several older brass that were never or less produced in plastic O scale. To me and others they are worth the money spent. Rick, I know you don't like what you get for the money spent with these OMI models but give us a break. It is what it is. Michael has one and I and you don't. He is very happy and you are happy you didn't waste your money and I am sad I didn't have the bucks this time around for a nice UP.  Now, OMI says they are out of the O scale business so we won't have the pleasure of these conversations in the future.

 

Phill

Last edited by phill

rdunniii seems to get where I'm coming from. Sometimes, I've thought about getting a HO ACe, just to have a model with the full look... no track etc. just the model. No point in going after a model with even less presence...

 

Nothing I have is sacred to me, that I wouldn't sell or trade away. When I first got into this, I would have never considered letting go of one of my locomotives. So far, I've traded away every scale wheels unit that I've owned; including the CP Train Master.

 

By the way, my contributions, re: my current GP35 trade, are significant. Two of my three traded locomotives/ABA set were snapped up immediately. The day my ABA set arrived, at the store I traded with, a customer arrived, tested it; and took it home. These are nice looking model trains; they're just not what I'm currently interested in, these days.

 

 

Rick

 

 

 

 

Although Aristocraft is no longer, Scott is keeping things coming and you never know what might happen in the future?  I wouldn't be at all surprised to see what was Aristocraft's products be produced in the future through a different distribution method.  I guess we'll see?
 
Originally Posted by rdunniii:

Do you have any pictures of something you would find acceptable?  They are models after all.  I don't think any model has the presence of the the real thing.  One of the reasons I switched from HO to O is because the presence factor.  1/32 or 1/29 has even more presence but the pickins are slim and with Aristocraft gone even slimmer.

 

Last edited by Mike DeBerg
Originally Posted by Mike DeBerg:
Although Aristocraft is no longer, Scott is keeping things coming and you never know what might happen in the future?  I wouldn't be at all surprised to see what was Aristocraft's products be produced in the future through a different distribution method.  I guess we'll see?

 

 

That would be nice.  I'm still looking for a few GP40s.  

 

Check out the headlights and their housing; the wipers;how nicely and evenly the front door recesses into the front and top structure; the ditch lights and their housing and the square surfaces they're attached to(color too); also the dimensions of the front deck the ditch sit on; and the various pilot cables, on the prototype NS unit.

 

I don't see the same things on the Overland models. What I do see is a manufacturers version of those specific details. The models details do not appear realistic or accurate.

 

I'm not being overly critical, just saying what I see. Over the years, I've read many harsh criticisms, re: certain models, made by some of the members here.

 

Just because some of you payed significant money, for these new models, doesn't mean they shouldn't be candidly reviewed.

 

 

Rick

Last edited by Rick B.

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