Picked up a project MTH S1 today UPDATE: It's ALIVE!

This would have been a single Pittman motor....dogbone and coupler set up....parts are as scarce as hens teeth....I hope you have the coupling driveshafts at least....I have a lot these parts in stock, however, they are at a premium as supplies are extremely limited......if you’d like to send me some pics of it with the shell off, and we can go from there, or you can contact Midge at the parts dept. of MTH as they are still selling/supplying parts.......

Pat

Thanks, Pat!  Certainly will send photos when it comes in.  I don't have an issue fabricating small parts if things aren't available...things like drive shafts, mounting brackets, etc.  But if they are available to buy, that's typically a better option unless the price is 3x what it would cost to custom make.

@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy posted:

Thanks, Pat!  Certainly will send photos when it comes in.  I don't have an issue fabricating small parts if things aren't available...things like drive shafts, mounting brackets, etc.  But if they are available to buy, that's typically a better option unless the price is 3x what it would cost to custom make.

Problem we’re seeing is guys are getting these engineering samples and they’re gutted like fish, no worm shafts, no driveshafts, no motor mount, no motors....etc., etc.,....fabbing the driveshafts isn’t a problem, it’s the worm gear shafts that are the issue, then there’s the issue of motors....there are practically no stock OE motors left anywheres.........let’s see what you got when you get it in your hands...

Pat

the saving grace for you Jeff, will be the fact you’re willing to keep it simple conventional....if you’d tried to kit it, and make it functional, you’d surpass the street value in the blink of an eye....you might be ok...like I said, if at least the worm shafts are there, that’s 3/4’s of the battle....then you got a good shot of making it run....I’ve seen these engineering samples in a whole bunch of different states of disarray....some having not a gear in sight, others darn near ready to run......I hope you can make her run buddy....she is a beautiful beast...

Pat

I like stuff like this. Too bad about the motor and drive shafts; if those were present, the project just becomes a reversing unit and lights (I would ERR Cruise Commander it, but that's not your thing).

Don't paint it; love that bare look. Do seal it with a couple of applications of Dullcote.

I've had one of these apart. There is a 9434 Pittman mounted in the firebox. The rear set of drivers has a worm shaft with cups for a driveshaft at either end. The front worm shaft just has a cup for a driveshaft at the rear. The setup is motor/flywheel/drive shaft/worm shaft/driveshaft/worm shaft. There are no u-joints as the drivers are not articulated (and need every bit of 072). Parts are hard to find. I'd try contacting midge and MTH to at least obtain the worm shafts and motor mount if you want it to run. The motor, flywheel, and drive shafts can be sourced from other sources (Lionel, etc.). 

I used one of these engineering samples/catalog artwork samples as a project base over the summer: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...locomotive-from-junk

Ok, got the S1 in today and tore into it.

All I'm all, I'm thrilled with what we got for the price. Original packaging, including all foam and protective inserts.

The shell and chassis appear flawless, no broken bits, no scratches, really nice.

HUGE bonus, it appears that ALL of the exterior detail parts were included in a separate bag. All the pop valves, ladders, handrails, lights, panel covers, running boards, headlamp assemblies... It's all here. This is honestly the biggest surprise because the auction ad says "no parts / motor"

Upon removing the shells from the loco and tender, the gearbox covers are both present, as well as the motor mount (big plus here!). So I can work with this. The worm gears are present on the drive axles. All wheel assembly and piston rod assemblies are complete.

Now, definitely going to need the driveline including the worm shafts and drive shafts. I may have a motor that is strong enough, otherwise will be looking to source a motor.

Tender has a 4 ohm speaker installed, but I'm going to be installing a PS1 boards that I already have, so that will get swapped out. Other excellent news is that all wiring harnesses, tethers are included. Even though they're configured for PS2, it's easy enough for me to use them to run PS1 stuff back and forth.

Even had aPS2 smoke unit with all wires and connectors. Unfortunately I can't use it, so if anyone wants to trade me a PS2 smoker for a PS1, let's talk.

Will forward this info to Midge as well, fingers crossed she can help with the drive shafts.

Edit: @Lou1985 & @harmonyards: Do the gearboxes also need a bushing / bearing at each end for the worm shaft to sit in?  The gearbox cover plates are present, but I can't find any sort of bushing that has a round hole that can fit in the slots on each side.  I'll also ask Midge.

Yes the worm shafts have ball bearings on each end. Usually the bearing on the end of the shaft opposite of the coupler slides on and off the shaft. The bearing on the coupler end (rear) is kept on the shaft by the coupler. When you order the worm it includes that rear bearing. The front one is a separate piece. Pat, @harmonyards, should know the size of the bearing MTH uses. I had it written down but can't locate it right now. It's around 8mm, if I remember correctly, and is flanged on one end.

If you have the rest of the wiring in that bag, including the tether connector for the locomotive, you might just need a MUX board and PS32 board to make the thing fully functional.

It’s a 4mmX9mm flanged bearing...slip fit...be sure to get whatever sleeve goes on the front end of any open ended shaft.....I believe this loco uses two shafts, with a secondary dog bone between the two shafts. So the very front forward shaft will be open ended....you’ll need that sleeve to set the shaft end play. With out it, the forward shaft will rock too much between the bearing ends, and you’ll destroy the worm wheel in short order....The sacrificial lamb unfortunately, is the worm wheel, not the worm shaft.....the worm shaft is as hard as darn it, the worm wheel is a much softer alloy....

Pat

@Lou1985: Thanks for the info.  I'm actually going to move a good PS2 3V board from a Railking E9 into the tender of this loco.  I'll need to learn how to install the sound file, unfortunately I have no TIU so I might need to see if I can meet up with someone in the Cincy area has one that I could either borrow or have them do it for me.  My original plan was to use a PS1 board, but since it actually came with all the PS2 fixins that I wasn't expecting (including the smoke unit), then I figured I might as well put the PS1 in the E9 Railking loco and use all the lights and smoke with a PS2 board.

The tether and tether board are in the parts bag.  I'm assuming the Mux is the board that receives the tether that mounts in the rear of the engine?  So yes, I have that as well.

@harmonyards: I'll see if Midge can track anything down, although she didn't seem real optimistic for the worm shaft assemblies.  If you have any on hand, I'm ready to make a deal.  I can probably find a motor on the Bay or somewhere too, unless you have one good to go.

Thanks for your help, guys.  Going to get this thing going lickety split.

See what Ms.Midge comes up with first, then you can contact me off-line, and we’ll go from there....

Pat

@Lou1985, @harmonyards:  I'm moving the discussion about the motor and parts back to here (versus hijacking the other thread about the Pittman motor replacement).

I haven't heard back from Midge regarding availability of the worms and shafts, but I did get a message from one of their techs about needing a couple of MUX boards for full PS2 capability.  I *think* those boards are in my parts bag that came with the engine, but even if they're not am I correct in thinking that they physical harness (which I do have) carries the stuff that is needed for the engine to function, the MUX boards are controlling some less important light features?  I wouldn't have a problem hard wiring the lights if I can't find Mux boards, especially if I have no control over them anyway running in conventional.

I plan on ordering a motor from Lionel during the 50% sale tomorrow, but if I can also pick up any other parts that I can cobble together that can still work, then I'd like to do so.  I can get a 30mm flywheel, but it appears that the original flywheel had the dogbone coupler integral to the flywheel.  Does Lionel offer something similar?

I can also see if there are any dogbones of the right length, but I'm doubting that.  Finally, of course, the worm assemblies with bearings. I'm thinking maybe there's a way to make these work from the Lionel part 6100:

What are the odds the dogbone is the same length and the worms are the same Pitch and pressure?

You’re gonna wind up having a fight on your hands trying to cobble together stuff from Lionel with stuff from MTH if you’ve never done this sort of thing before.....flywheel thickness, bore diameter, and how the coupler is installed on the flywheel will come into play ......finding an exact length dog bone that’ll work isn’t going to be easy.......you kinda have to be able to gauge what’s going to line up or not, before you just blindly buy parts that might not work......that makes the project 10 times more expensive.....

Midge is probably overwhelmed at the moment with everybody trying to do  the same thing you’re doing, plus she’s always busy with “normal parts orders” .....she’s always gotten back to me, so you may have to just be a little patient......

as I mentioned before, after Midge tells you what she doesn’t have, you may contact me, and we can go from there....don’t get the cart ahead of the horse, or you’ll learn the term X-pensive really quick buying a bunch of parts that won’t work....just attempting to save you some grief......

Pat

Looking at the parts breakdown for the Lionel version: https://www.lionelsupport.com/...c6-94c2-2ca8b3baee31

It looks like the worms have the correct pitch. The bearings are wrong but can be changed. One word of caution: you'll want someone who knows how to set up the worms to verify they are correct/make any changes if necessary, otherwise you run the risk of stripping out the worm wheels on the axles. You can probably order the flywheel, motor, and dog bones from that Lionel S1 and be ok. You'll just need to add tach tape to the Lionel flywheel which is no big deal.

Jeff, I just read your questions from the other thread about Pittman motors, I’ll answer your question on here, so like you mentioned, we don’t hijack that man’s thread.....

if you plan on using the PS electronics, I’d think ( and somebody else can verify) you’d best stick with a 12 volt motor ....I’m not sure how the PS electronics will react to a 15.1 or even a 19.1V Pittman....you may or may not run into issues,....I can’t answer that question, as I’ve always used the appropriate voltage motor given the electronics package I’m using on hand....

the question of 12 volt or 15.1 is best left answered by somebody that’s attempted that swap, or knows it won’t affect the way the locomotive behaves....

Pat

Also, ...if you plan on buying a new Pittman straight from the mfr. , which is now owned by Ametek....hold on to your britches....they’ll hurt your feelings like never before, ....Ametek has all but gotten out of the hobby industry all together....they’ve priced themselves right out of our lives.....

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Midge is probably overwhelmed at the moment with everybody trying to do  the same thing you’re doing, plus she’s always busy with “normal parts orders” .....she’s always gotten back to me, so you may have to just be a little patient......

Don't get me wrong, Pat.  I'm not complaining.  I'm actually surprised she's been able to communicate with me at all.  I only mentioned the Lionel route because if there any any useful parts I can pick up for 50% off, I'd like to do it.   And that sale only lasts until Saturday I think.  So there's a timing element involved.

I won't be buying from Pittman, I'll be buying a Lionel motor to use.

@Lou1985:  I'll be OK with swapping the bearings on the worm shaft and tinkering with the worm engagement.  But if the Lionel one is not a slam-dunk (like the motor will be) then I'm ok waiting to see what Midge can dig up.

Thanks for all the guidance, guys.

Jeff, I wasn’t insinuating you were complaining buddy, ....I just know how Ms.Midge operates....that lady is phenomenal!....how she gets it all done is mind boggling.....she’s a one person band!,..trust me, if you like tinkering with this cr......you’ll miss her too!..

Pat

I'd wait and see what Midge finds. Lionel worm shafts will not be 100% drop in.

Went ahead and picked up two Pittmans from the Lionel sale (a 12V 9234 and a 15V 9434) plus a flywheel that is used on the Lionel S1 that has a dogbone coupler built in.  Basically items 24,27,28,29,30 and 37 in the Lionel parts list.

Also went ahead and bought the shafts and dog bones...for half off they weren't really that much.  If Midge can't find the MTH versions, at least I have a starting point if I can't dig any up on the used market or from a forum member.  And I can always find use for whichever motor I end up not using.  Can't beat 50% off and 10 dollar flat shipping!

I can’t tell from the Lionel exploded view you posted up, ....does the Lionel worm shaft have flanged bearings?....some Lionel engines do not use a step flanged bearing. All big MTH Premier steam uses the 4X9mm step flanged bearing....even still, some Lionel use a 4X8mm non flanged bearing, and the bearing stops are cast in as part of the gear tower....do not use a non-flanged bearing on a MTH gear tower....you will not like the resulting carnage....😉

Pat

It doesn't appear there are any pre-mounted bearings on the shafts. I don't even know if the shafts are the right length (and likely they're not) but I've got enough time and patience to mount my own bearings and figure it all out, even if it means some light machining work.

Just thought it was worth a shot for 10 bucks all in if MTH doesn't come through.

@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy posted:

It doesn't appear there are any pre-mounted bearings on the shafts. I don't even know if the shafts are the right length (and likely they're not) but I've got enough time and patience to mount my own bearings and figure it all out, even if it means some light machining work.

Just thought it was worth a shot for 10 bucks all in if MTH doesn't come through.

There are bearings mounted on the shaft, especially the most rearward shaft, the one with double couplings.....IF the Lionel worm shafts have a non-flanged bearing on them, you’ll need to carefully pull the couplers from the shaft, and install flanged bearings F684ZZ 4X9mm ( that’s not a MTH part no.) .....you’ll need to set the worm shaft endplay, and be wary of gear depth. Also be sure to set worm shaft orientation over the worm wheel....too far left or right from center, and you’ll eat up the worm wheel’s teeth, and then you’ll be pulling wheels....

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

There are bearings mounted on the shaft, especially the most rearward shaft, the one with double couplings.....IF the Lionel worm shafts have a non-flanged bearing on them, you’ll need to carefully pull the couplers from the shaft, and install flanged bearings F684ZZ 4X9mm ( that’s not a MTH part no.) .....you’ll need to set the worm shaft endplay, and be wary of gear depth. Also be sure to set worm shaft orientation over the worm wheel....too far left or right from center, and you’ll eat up the worm wheel’s teeth, and then you’ll be pulling wheels....

Pat

That's correct. The Lionel worm shafts will come with bearings but they are the wrong ones. They can be swamped out. The worm shaft gears should have the correct pitch but they should be checked for depth are wear pattern. Something like Prussian blue (you know this stuff if you've ever set up gears in an automotive situation) would be helpful. Whatever you do DO NOT run the locomotive powered by a motor until you are 100% certain you have the worm shafts set up correctly.

Got my parts for the S1 from the Lionel half off sale today, so here's what I've got:

• Pittman DL0404 12V motor
• Flywheel with dogbone coupling pre-installed
• Short Dogbone axle
• Worm shaft with two pre-installed 9x4mm flanged bearings and coupler both ends.
• Long Dogbone Axle
• Worm shaft with coupler on rear and two non-flanged 9x4mm bearings

My MTH S1 loco chassis is over at my parent's house, so I can't check all the dimensions and alignment just yet.  However, going by above comments from @Lou1985 and @harmonyards:

• I can likely adjust the motor position on the mount and the position of the flywheel /coupler to make sure the first dogbone aligns in the correct position (in direction of travel) with respect to the first worm mount
• I should be able to use the pre-installed bearings on Worm #1 (at the rear, closest to motor) because they re the correct 9x4 flanged bearings.  I may have to adjust them along the shaft to be positioned over the first worm gear properly, but the 9x4 flanged bearings are a good thing, right?
• The second dog bone may or may not be able to work, would depend on if the length from the first to second worms on the Lionel S1 are close (within 1/8" or so based on the jaw coupling that meets the dog bone), but that's easy enough to make if I need to.  I could probably fashion one myself here if I had to if I can't get the length right
• The second worm will likely need to have the bearings switched out from plain ball bearings to flanged bearings like the first worm, and I'll have to devise some sort of thin spacer to set them on the shaft longitudinally.  The long worm has built-in stop on the front end of the shaft.

I feel like I'm in a really good place ATM, and I can probably use these parts.  Midge has (so far) had no luck replying to me about the worms from MTH, so I feel like I'm going to give it a try.

Now I need to see if someone can upload the correct PS2 sound file for my spare 3V ps2 card, since I don't have a TIU or remote from MTH (I'm all conventional).  And according to DON at MTH, I will want the two MUX boards that transmit some stuff for the PS2 lighting from the tender to the loco (where the tether doesn't have enough pinouts).  And Don confirmed that MTH no longer carries them or has any in stock.  So...anyone have any spare MUX boards (Xmit and Rec) laying around they'd be willing to sell?  Otherwise I may hard wire them through a secondary tether.

I've attached a photo of everything I've got for the loco, so you guys can point out what may or may not still be missing.  I think I have a pretty good idea on the detail parts where everything goes, although I feel like I might have some duplicates.  In addition to the photos below, I've also got a BCR for the 3V board (not shown).

Thanks again!

You won’t know how things are going to land until you attempt to fit things.....as you already know, those non-flanged bearings will never work....that’s got to be the first order of business, then, attempt to land your worm gears, get all of that set up, and working properly.......then worry about dog bones, I question that flywheel, it’s a very tight fit in a MTH with the stock 30mm as Lou I believe pointed out to you earlier...I’d be careful altering motor mount location if the flywheel doesn’t clear things, you may wind up with body fitment issues, and that’ll be like trying to cure a mosquito bite with a shotgun...think things through, and you’ll be ok.....biggest issue I see is making sure you’re on the axial centerline of the worm shaft/worm wheel when you set your shafts, so the worm shaft don’t eat your worm wheels for breakfast.....the shafts are as hard as darn it, the worm wheels are much softer, and they’ll give no warnings they’re be eaten alive...

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

Jeff, I wasn’t insinuating you were complaining buddy, ....I just know how Ms.Midge operates....that lady is phenomenal!....how she gets it all done is mind boggling.....she’s a one person band!,..trust me, if you like tinkering with this cr......you’ll miss her too!..

Pat

I'm a little jealous here. Midge told me that the engine I got, didn't have any parts list so she couldn't help me. I was going to try ordering parts blindly and hoping I could make something work.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...4-engineering-sample

I wasn't very lucky here I guess?

Good luck and carry on!

@Engineer-Joe posted:

I'm a little jealous here. Midge told me that the engine I got, didn't have any parts list so she couldn't help me. I was going to try ordering parts blindly and hoping I could make something work.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...4-engineering-sample

I wasn't very lucky here I guess?

Good luck and carry on!

GN 4-8-4 right? The worm shaft for a SP GS 4-8-4 should fit that locomotive. The worm shafts between my SP GS, ATSF, and UP FEF Northerns are the same. Best part is the SP GS worm shaft is still available from MTH.

@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy posted:

Got my parts for the S1 from the Lionel half off sale today, so here's what I've got:

• Pittman DL0404 12V motor
• Flywheel with dogbone coupling pre-installed
• Short Dogbone axle
• Worm shaft with two pre-installed 9x4mm flanged bearings and coupler both ends.
• Long Dogbone Axle
• Worm shaft with coupler on rear and two non-flanged 9x4mm bearings

My MTH S1 loco chassis is over at my parent's house, so I can't check all the dimensions and alignment just yet.  However, going by above comments from @Lou1985 and @harmonyards:

• I can likely adjust the motor position on the mount and the position of the flywheel /coupler to make sure the first dogbone aligns in the correct position (in direction of travel) with respect to the first worm mount
• I should be able to use the pre-installed bearings on Worm #1 (at the rear, closest to motor) because they re the correct 9x4 flanged bearings.  I may have to adjust them along the shaft to be positioned over the first worm gear properly, but the 9x4 flanged bearings are a good thing, right?
• The second dog bone may or may not be able to work, would depend on if the length from the first to second worms on the Lionel S1 are close (within 1/8" or so based on the jaw coupling that meets the dog bone), but that's easy enough to make if I need to.  I could probably fashion one myself here if I had to if I can't get the length right
• The second worm will likely need to have the bearings switched out from plain ball bearings to flanged bearings like the first worm, and I'll have to devise some sort of thin spacer to set them on the shaft longitudinally.  The long worm has built-in stop on the front end of the shaft.

I feel like I'm in a really good place ATM, and I can probably use these parts.  Midge has (so far) had no luck replying to me about the worms from MTH, so I feel like I'm going to give it a try.

Now I need to see if someone can upload the correct PS2 sound file for my spare 3V ps2 card, since I don't have a TIU or remote from MTH (I'm all conventional).  And according to DON at MTH, I will want the two MUX boards that transmit some stuff for the PS2 lighting from the tender to the loco (where the tether doesn't have enough pinouts).  And Don confirmed that MTH no longer carries them or has any in stock.  So...anyone have any spare MUX boards (Xmit and Rec) laying around they'd be willing to sell?  Otherwise I may hard wire them through a secondary tether.

I've attached a photo of everything I've got for the loco, so you guys can point out what may or may not still be missing.  I think I have a pretty good idea on the detail parts where everything goes, although I feel like I might have some duplicates.  In addition to the photos below, I've also got a BCR for the 3V board (not shown).

Thanks again!

As Pat noted you really want someone who knows what they are doing to set up those worm shafts, since this is cobbling stuff together that wasn’t quite made to fit together. Those chassis worm wheels are made of unobtainium.

@Lou1985 posted:

GN 4-8-4 right? The worm shaft for a SP GS 4-8-4 should fit that locomotive. The worm shafts between my SP GS, ATSF, and UP FEF Northerns are the same. Best part is the SP GS worm shaft is still available from MTH.

that's the exact one I was going to try! Thanks. It takes away the guess work on my end.

I bought another engine ( 3 rail)  that was supposed to be a working sample to swap out the parts for. Trouble is that it's the old 5 volt set-up, no board inside, and I overpaid for it.

At this rate, I could order a brand new working PS3 version and save some grief.

@Engineer-Joe posted:

that's the exact one I was going to try! Thanks. It takes away the guess work on my end.

I bought another engine ( 3 rail)  that was supposed to be a working sample to swap out the parts for. Trouble is that it's the old 5 volt set-up, no board inside, and I overpaid for it.

At this rate, I could order a brand new working PS3 version and save some grief.

That Pittman I sent you Joe, for that Williams Challenger will be a shoe in for that MTH engine....it’ll work fine in that locomotive.....that Williams Challenger beat all of us .....Lou is correct, those GS shafts will fit just about all the big Premier, sans the articulated split frames....shaft length coming out of the gear box is the only factor, and making a custom dog bone with some brass tubing is a no brainer ...whole lot easier than attempting to shorten or lengthen the worm shaft....

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

That Pittman I sent you Joe, for that Williams Challenger will be a shoe in for that MTH engine....it’ll work fine in that locomotive.....that Williams Challenger beat all of us .....Lou is correct, those GS shafts will fit just about all the big Premier, sans the articulated split frames....shaft length coming out of the gear box is the only factor, and making a custom dog bone with some brass tubing is a no brainer ...whole lot easier than attempting to shorten or lengthen the worm shaft....

Pat

Pat, thanks again. I have a page open with a parts list order for MTH. They don't show the motor, bracket, or flywheel available for ordering!

So I may have to get inventive with the flywheel?

They do show a modern motor number when you look up motor number

old number BE-0000030 = new # MA?

@Engineer-Joe posted:

Pat, thanks again. I have a page open with a parts list order for MTH. They don't show the motor, bracket, or flywheel available for ordering!

So I may have to get inventive with the flywheel?

They do show a modern motor number when you look up motor number

old number BE-0000030 = new # MA?

Joe, MTH & Lionel both stopped using Pittman when Pittman priced themselves right out of the model railroad industry....The new motors are Chinese knock offs, no harm, no foul, but that 9433 I sent you will fit just fine in that MTH loco ......the Pittman I sent you is their standard 4mm shaft, same as Lionel and MTH uses.....to be sure there’d be a Lionel flywheel that you could use that would come close ...I know MTH uses 27 or 30mm flywheels, but I think John or maybe it was you that knows how to do the math for striping an oddball sized flywheel.....don’t hold me to the stripe thing....

Pat

Yeap Pat. I have figured out many upgrade flywheel stripes over the years. A couple dozen?

I just use a starting guess, then rough math % of error to get closer, and then fine tune it. Not the best, but it works.

The motor you sent should work. SO I have to get a flywheel on the end to add the stripe tape to.

I actually did not think to use a Lionel one. So I will look into that.

@harmonyards posted:

You won’t know how things are going to land until you attempt to fit things.....as you already know, those non-flanged bearings will never work....that’s got to be the first order of business, then, attempt to land your worm gears, get all of that set up, and working properly.......then worry about dog bones, I question that flywheel, it’s a very tight fit in a MTH with the stock 30mm as Lou I believe pointed out to you earlier...I’d be careful altering motor mount location if the flywheel doesn’t clear things, you may wind up with body fitment issues, and that’ll be like trying to cure a mosquito bite with a shotgun...think things through, and you’ll be ok.....biggest issue I see is making sure you’re on the axial centerline of the worm shaft/worm wheel when you set your shafts, so the worm shaft don’t eat your worm wheels for breakfast.....the shafts are as hard as darn it, the worm wheels are much softer, and they’ll give no warnings they’re be eaten alive...

Pat

As you guys suspected, the 30mm flywheel was a tad too wide and the forward edge was interfering with the rear drive wheel flanges.

I was able to machine off that corner and now the flywheel clears the drive wheels by half a millimeter in the worst case position of the drive wheels being bottomed out as close to the inside of the chassis as possible.

Better news is that the short dog bone and both worm shafts will be able to work with very few changes. I've got two more flags bearings and some small 8mm shaft collars to install as hard stops behind the bearings. The shafts themselves are just fine length-wise, but the couplers need to be a bit further apart than nominal on the long shaft for the coupler bodies clear the machined housings.

The long dog bone is too long. A second short one would fit perfect, so I'm going to order that from Lionel. Or I might just cobble one together.

Well on my way to mechanically tying this up. Next I guess I have to find those MUX boards.

Initial rough lineup:

After machining flywheel and seating rear worm shaft. Still need to get a collar, but this will be a good fit.

Not bad for a bunch of parts bought at half price from a competing manufacturer!

Update: got an email from Midge, she was able to track down both worms and the flywheel intended for this engine, with proper bearings, couplers and spacers.

So I'll pull these Lionel worms/bearings and save for a rainy day, or if someone wants to trade a worm for helping me upload the S1 sounds to my card, maybe that would work.

Ah good. The MTH parts should just drop right in.

Alright, I've got the MTH worms and I'm almost done mechanically. Had to buy another 4mm spacer and a couple shims to properly set the forward worm, should have those in a couple days. Rear worm fits like a glove.

Also needed to get a second 15/32 dog bone from Lionel since MTH is out of stock. But it's looking good from that end.

So now moving to thinking about electrical. Thanks to a forum member, I've got a set of MUX boards. It was easy enough to find where the MUX mounts in the tender, there was already a bracket installed waiting for it. And I can see the mount locations in the boiler for the mux and tether boards. Piece of cake. But something about the tender is bugging me. I don't understand what the second 10-pin tether socket connects to. I feel like maybe I'm missing a cable that is supposed to connect that socket to the MUX board?

Also, the smoke unit that was included, although it has the correct funnel, seems like the mounting legs are the "short" instead of "long" legs that I need. Fortunately, I have a spare PS2 smoker, but I'm not sure it's compatible. Can this one be used with the 3V and MUX configuration? (Proposed substitute on right, engine shipped with one on left). I'm also thinking it's possible that the short leg unit is correct, but I'm missing a mount bracket that raises the unit up. Because it doesn't look like the mount screws are accessible from below, and the holes are tapped in the chassis leading me to think I should be looking to make a bracket.

Then all I gotta do is figure out how to rig up the encoder to the motor mount since I'm not using the original motor and encoder mount ring. I'm thinking of just some epoxy and burying the back of the encoder PCB into the adhesive and letting it set up with a 1mm spacer between it and the flywheel.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Joe, FYI, this is a Lionel 33.7mm flywheel. MTH has tach strips for those. I was going to machine it down to 30mm but decided bigger is better and actually works OK with the sensor holder.

Pete