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Traded out my first open frame motor for a Pittman.  This was a fairly easy task after reading articles in this forum and other places by Yves, bob2 and JayC.

Thank you all!  The Toyota vacuum hose U-joint that I first read about from bob2 works great.

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Last edited by swrr
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@swrr posted:

Pat,

That’s what I had around.  It cost me about $10 new.  I’m nearing retirement so I have to watch my budget.  I would have preferred a 12 or 15v motor, but could find no source for a motor in that range for less than $60 delivered.  You have some you want to sell?😉

Rob

Unfortunately, no Im so flooded with Pittman swaps, I’ve got to keep what I have on hand for jobs, however, get a hold of me and I can put you on the path of some 12 volt motors that are a lot cheaper than 60 to your door, …..also Lionel’s half price sale is on, so you can also search there,……the problem with some of the 24 volt motors is they won’t be in their power band when running so you’d notice considerable slowing in curves and grades,…you’ll find as you do more upgrades that motors and gear boxes coupled with driver diameters will affect where a motor runs it’s best, makes the best power, and provides smooth performance,…..I’ve found some 69” driver locomotives with 18 or 19 to 1 gearboxes you can get away with 19 volt Pittmans, still surrendering top speed, but the locomotive was still in its sweet spot when cruising……

Pat

@Strummer posted:

Cool beans: a 4-8-4(?) Maybe you'd be willing to share some info on this. It would probably be of interest to those of us who like doing this sort of stuff...

Mark in Oregon

Mark,

This conversion was for a U.P. 4-8-2.  The bracket used to hold the motor was the smaller one for the open frame motor.  One needs to use the shorter length Pittman 9xy3 types for it to fit.  The Toyota tube I believe is part#

90999-92002.  I have heard of others just to their auto parts store using wiper tubing.  The screws are 6-32 1/4” length. Wiring is the same as the open frame motor.   And that’s about.  No drilling and no special machining.

i still need to add the safety wire that holds the mid portion of the motor in place— another idea I believe from bob2.

hope this helps.

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