Planning New Layout

I'm not sure how much you like working with computers, or your experience level.  I've been using a software called SCARM to try out layout designs.  Some aspects of it are tedious, but it's still easier than tearing out a bunch of stuff, or buying more track after it's physically built.  It just depends on your own preferences, experience, and approach to the hobby.

I have a MAC computer and have found RailmodelerPro to work well on it.  

As for a layout, planning one using a computer program or paper and pencil is a good start.  You will be able to see how the track fits your space and make adjustments accordingly.  

Depending on the type of layout you are looking for will determine how you build it.  For example, if you want a scale true to life layout, then a long term building plan should be expected.  There are multitudes of details and vignettes that will take hours if not days to complete.  

On the other hand, if you prefer a more toy-like or post-war approach, alot of action will be realized quickly.  That's not to say that you should build your layout like a Tasmanian Devil.  Time is on your side, being retired.  Well, at least it may seem that it is.  Kids with houses that need work will make you think, why did I retire.....LOL  Post-war type layouts don't usually require as much attention to detail.

Whatever you decide, keep us in the loop with photographs.   

Hi Terry ,

It appears that you have a room and a layout to plan. It is usually best to choose a smaller project to get your feet wet in this hobby. It can all become overwhelming and discouraging. 

The trains will need at least two dedicated circuits (15 amp) for electrical power and one for lighting. Having switches for the power and a dimmer control for the lighting is helpul. That should cover infrastructure.

Layout access and viewing points are some important early concerns. You can get an idea by playing with a folding table and some objects on the table. Place a long side against a wall. Place one corner into a of corner of two walls. Move around and look at the objects. This will provide you with the helicopter view of a 30" height and experience the impact of placement in a space. A good height for a layout for adults is 40".

How much do you plan on spending? I would estimate that for 30% - 40% more than the cost of a do it yourself layout that you can hire a professional to build what you want or envision, deliver it and set it up. Some costs that I have seen for projects on the forum would put an 8' x 10' around $12,000-$15,000.

I assist in design and build work locally and remotely. I am in NJ, so, we have a geography problem. I would gladly discuss your project with you. Contact me offline. My email is in my profile.

Here is a good document from the boys down under. This can help you with the layout process. Have fun!

Moonman posted:

Hi Terry ,

It appears that you have a room and a layout to plan. It is usually best to choose a smaller project to get your feet wet in this hobby. It can all become overwhelming and discouraging. 

The trains will need at least two dedicated circuits (15 amp) for electrical power and one for lighting. Having switches for the power and a dimmer control for the lighting is helpul. That should cover infrastructure.

Layout access and viewing points are some important early concerns. You can get an idea by playing with a folding table and some objects on the table. Place a long side against a wall. Place one corner into a of corner of two walls. Move around and look at the objects. This will provide you with the helicopter view of a 30" height and experience the impact of placement in a space. A good height for a layout for adults is 40".

How much do you plan on spending? I would estimate that for 30% - 40% more than the cost of a do it yourself layout that you can hire a professional to build what you want or envision, deliver it and set it up. Some costs that I have seen for projects on the forum would put an 8' x 10' around $12,000-$15,000.

I assist in design and build work locally and remotely. I am in NJ, so, we have a geography problem. I would gladly discuss your project with you. Contact me offline. My email is in my profile.

Here is a good document from the boys down under. This can help you with the layout process. Have fun!

 

Thanks Carl that is some great info that I have not yet considered. I do have the capability to have dedicated circuits, so that's good. And I am pretty handy when it comes to building things, but since this is pretty new for me, I will contact you when I get closer to starting the project, currently clearing some space. I do plan on starting out smaller and gradually build on. Thanks again for the feedback, much appreciated.

Terry

I'm guessing that if you're modeling the 1960's, you probably are going to be using first-generation diesels, mainly 4-axle, so you could get by with 042 curves.

That said, you could build a u-shaped layout, let's say one section 5 or 6 by 30, then a second section, 4 by 30, with a narrow connecting piece at one end, and a two-foot walkway between the two sections. I have a similar arrangement, and the shape makes the trains look like they actually go some place instead of just going in circles.

That sounds really good, do you have any photos to share? Is yours a  60"s layout, would love to see a nice 50-60's layout if anyone has one to share. Started making space, almost there, then going into the planning stage. Not retired yet so still working on it whenever I have the chance. Thanks to all for your feedback, it definitely helps a newbie like myself.

Here's a shot of the 4x24 section, which represents the Jersey Shore. The layout is still in the very early stages, eventually it will be sceniced. I am concentrating on track, wiring, and signals right now.

I don't have a specific era, it's more like a history of railroads in New Jersey starting around 1929, and moving into the 1970s when I was growing up there.

Here are some shots of the 8 x 24 section, which is northern New Jersey, around Union County.

Very nice, I love the McDonalds 15 cent burgers, that is a lot of the look I like. I know those buildings are costly, but adding a little at a time I'm sure will get you there, I'm sure it's part of the hobby that is best, growing your layout. Thanks for sharing trainman.

You're quite welcome. What area of the country will you be modeling?

Welcome Terry!  Sounds like you are getting off to a good start planning.  I'm just two years younger than you, and I do advise trying something small at first then work on something bigger for your available space.  I need space for ample aisles, and no duckunders, pop up holes, or climbing onto the table.  I did too much of that stuff at work over the years.  Therefore, I am just starting to build the biggest layout I have ever had.  My room is 12 x 25, but after taking into account the things I just mentioned in the last sentence, the layout will be sort of a short U shape only 10 x 15.  I will write more later, but if you want to see my planning, you can click on the link in my signature line.

Thanks Mark, great advice on starting out small and expand from there, exactly my plan. As far as walk arounds, my back will require no duck unders, so it will be some type of setup where I don't have to duck or crawl under. I like your plans, I am looking to do some over and unders. Was wondering also if anyone can tell me was is the best angle for a gradual incline, if that makes sense.

You're welcome!  My grade is going to be roughly a whopping 3%.  That is what the prototype was.  A modeling rule of thumb is 1% to 2%, but many O gaugers go for higher than me.  I tested my engines pulling several cars at 6% and 8%, I believe, and all did fine.  If you have the room, don't make the grade very steep, and you will be able to pull longer, heavier trains.  Others may have other ideas.  That is what the Forum is for; collect ideas and see what works best for you.

My L-shaped O-gauge home layout was "defined" by the shape of the train room, which was an L-shaped addition to the house built by the former owner, who used that space as a home office. I used ANYRAIL software to create a track plan but changed it many times to accommodate new ideas and kill previous not-so-good ideas. The main level of the layout couldn't include my collection of DEPT 56 lighted porcelain buildings from the NORTH POLE VILLAGE series, so I added an elevated level around the perimeter for 35 buildings; then placed three short Christmas-theme trolley lines there.

The layout has a suburban area, a Victorian district, a business district, an oil field, and an industrial district. The Dinosaur Park in one corner was created for play by my great grandsons: Matthew (now 6) and Hudson (now 5). The layout has many MTH and Lionel action accessories with control buttons placed on the fascia board near the corresponding accessory. The boys are great button-pushers!

The main level of the layout rests on patio-carpet-covered hollow core doors supported by SKIL plastic sawhorses. The platforms are held in position by quarter-round guides glued and screwed to the undersides. I don't have the "Scenery Gene" in my DNA, so I'm content with the carpeting, tubular track, lighted buildings, action accessories, and people figures with no mountains, tunnels, rivers, and such. More power to those hobbyists who can imagine and then create a detailed empire.

The two control panels are mounted on pull-out shelves under the fascia boards at the angle of the "L" - easily pulled out for operations and then pushed back when done. The layout is dual-wired for TMCC by Lionel and DCS by MTH. A knife switch enables me to select one system or the other.  A Lionel 135w "brick" is the power source for the tracks on the main line and sidings. Two MTH Z1000 "bricks" provide auxiliary power; one feeds 14v AC to all ten switches and the other provides 14v AC to most accessories and lighted buildings. The three trolley lines on the upper level receive DC-only power from a 90w PC power supply, with three small DC adjustable voltage controllers in that circuit; one for each trolley line.

I chose O42 curves and K-Line low-profile switches as the minimum radius on the main level, which is the max curvature the train room could handle. Unfortunately, the perimeter aisle space is limited; which is an incentive for me to control my waistline!

Photos and PDFs showing the track plans of the main and upper levels are attached. Keep OGR FORUM members up to date about your progress with progress reports and pix

Carry on ...

Mike Mottler     LCCA 12394
mottlerm@gmail.com

CHOOCHOOPAPA,

Did you receive my email? If not, check your spam folder because it had attachments.

Moonman posted:

CHOOCHOOPAPA,

Did you receive my email? If not, check your spam folder because it had attachments.

I found it, get so many emails there are sometimes hard to find. Nice wood work, I have built a few 75 gallon aquarium stands from 2x4, but would need advice on how to build them so I could reach everything and where to put the power. Will definitely loo you up when I get to that point, thanks again

Terry

choochoopapa posted:

Moonman posted:

CHOOCHOOPAPA,

Did you receive my email? If not, check your spam folder because it had attachments.

I found it, get so many emails there are sometimes hard to find. Nice wood work, I have built a few 75 gallon aquarium stands from 2x4, but would need advice on how to build them so I could reach everything and where to put the power. Will definitely loo you up when I get to that point, thanks again

Terry

Wrong email my friend - subject is : O Gauge forum layout design post

Mike, that is a really nice rundown on your layout, why you built it L shaped, and what you used for construction!  Great photographs and plan!

Trainman2 posted:

Here are some shots of the 8 x 24 section, which is northern New Jersey, around Union County.

Very nice set up!

Sean007 posted:

Trainman2 posted:

Here are some shots of the 8 x 24 section, which is northern New Jersey, around Union County.

Very nice set up!

Thanks