Please recommend a variable power transformer for switch power.

Have you measured the actual voltage output of the transformer that you already are using?

Have you tried using 12 volts on the switches?

Do they operate better on AC than on DC, or vice-versa?

If you intend to buy a new transformer for the switch machines, I think you won't need a variable supply, as once you settle on an appropriate voltage level, you'll probably just leave it at that level. Since you will not be operating more than a few machines at the same time, you won't need a large supply.

Arthur, you're right that I don't plan to change the voltage once it has been set but Dennis Zander, from Z-Stuff, recommends using 14 volts.  I have 18 volt Lionel bricks for track power and a 12 volt landscape transformer for accessories.  Dennis says 12 volts may be too little for the DZ2500/DZ1008 and 18 will be too hot.

John,
A lot of what Art is asking is important . I found out the hard way that DZ's automatic crossings don't like 14 volts A/C it melts the motors.
Better call Dennis and ask him what the particulars are?
I would think that there should be some leeway with the DZ switch machines but that may not be the case but to get a constant 14 volts you'd have to have a regulated supply which to me is kind of an expensive requirement for toy train stuff.
I would think if it's A/C a MTH Z-750 would do the trick.
Something like a MRC Tech III would be good if it's D/C.
Might not be a bad idea to wire in a meter to read volts either if this is the route your going to take.

David

David, I have a MTH Z-1000 that I'll try.  As you said I can measure the voltage from it.  If 14 volts is the answer then I can use its fixed 14 volt port.  Thanks!

I go back to my initial recommendations:

Measure the voltage output of the transformer you already have. You may find that it is already delivering more than the nominal 12 volts.

See if your switch machines will work reliably with whatever voltage you have available.

See if they work better with DC.

By doing full-wave rectification of AC, you will get 1.4 times your transformer output, (with a filter capacitor) minus the 2-volt voltage drop of the diodes in the full-wave bridge.

(12 x 1.4) - 2 = 14.8

So basically, in very broad terms, if your switch machines operate or even tolerate DC, you can pretty much get the voltage the manufacturer recommends.  The push-buttons used to operate the machines will spark more on DC, if that's an issue.

Dennis told me that using DC to power DZ1000's is a no no. I specifically asked this question because I use  DC to power my Lionel switches--I have a combination of both Lionel & Ross with DZ1000's. I wanted to use DC for all of them, but Dennis kiboshed that idea.

Arthur, my problem isn't with the mechanical operation of the DZ2500 but rather with the combination of the DZ2500 and DZ1008.  The DZ1008 isn't switching.  He suggested 14 volts.  Before I try 14 volts I'm going to rewire the switch leads and ground with 18 gauge wire like my three working switches.  If that doesn't work then I'll try 14 volt switch power.

Understood. Let us know ho w you make out.

John I am interested also. I am running my DZ-2500s off a 12 volt lighting transformer and it works fine. It is putting out 12.4 volts and my buss is 24 gauge 2 pair telephone hookup wire. I have 11 switches operating currently in a Legacy/TMCC hookup. If your problem is partial switching you may need to loosen your mounting screws a little. In the beginning I had a few partial switch problems and backing off the mounting screws 1/4 turn still held the machine down and cleared up the problems. If the machines are to tight they tend to warp a little and that causes the motor to bind a little. By the way I am pretty sure the DZ-2500s are AC only.

Ron

Also, if DC leaks to the track, all of your horns, bells and whistles will be blowing all the time.

If the wire run to your switch is any longer then about ten feet you should try to use at least 18 gauge wire. I know that they don draw much current when just sitting there but that little switch motor must put out a lot of power for a short instant when activated. when you push that button that little switch machine may draw more than an amp of current for an instant. If you are having trouble with your switches try larger wire.

Al

My buss length is about 90 ft long with the data wire driver tied into the middle and the power supply tied on the end. The wire is 24 gauge and I have no problems with partial switching or dropped tmcc commands. I also ran my Christmas layout 2 years ago with the same wire with no problems although the run was shorter. If the DZ-2500 draws that much starting current the voltage drop would be quite high for 24 gauge wire.