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I bought this old postwar culvert loader at a train show, was told it worked, got home and realized it was a disaster.  I have the Greenburg Repair and Operating Manual for Lionel Trains, it gave a simple parts blow-up and a little info but not a whole lot.  I took the thing apart, cleaned it, oiled different things that i probably shouldn't have, rewound the de-waxed string, and got the thing moving again!  That's when the real problems popped up.

 

First, it moves slow.  I've played with the tension on the line, and it'll start moving fast and smooth but after a little bit of time it begins slowing down and binding somewhere, and then the whole thing grinds to a halt.  The manual says the spring should be pulled out to 5/8 inch!!  but when i tried doing that the wheels wouldn't move and the spring popped off!!!  Maybe its a replacement spring, i dont know.  the insides have been jacked with obviously.  So, that's one problem, it starts going good, then just slows to a crawl.

 

Next problem, the conveyer assembly doesn't go far enough over the tracks to drop the culvert into the car.  On the other hand, it doesn't go far enough to the other side to get a good hook on the culvert!  Now, when the thing is running well and going fast, it hooks the culvert fine, but regardless it doesn't come over the gondola enough for the culvert to land in it properly.

 

So in short, this thing doesn't do anything its supposed to!!  My biggest concern is the fact that it just doesn't run smoothly.  The whole binding and slowing to a stop is driving me nuts.  Does anyone have any knowledge of these old accessories that you can give me some help?!

 

Thank you so much,

Dominic Miele

Last edited by DomMiele
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Some thoughts.

 As far as the mechanism slowing down and stopping is replace the drive line cord.

  I have found after after years of use the cord/string becomes too 'smooth' to get a good grip on the pulley. Replacing it will solve that problem. Also bend a piece of sandpaper in half and sand the groove the string rides in the drive pulley. This will give some bite in the nylon plastic.

 As far as the grappler not moving far enough to drop the culvert squarely in the car, remove the single screw that holds the building to the frame and move the building about 1/32 of a inch towards the track. Hold with your hand and try operating the loader. Drill a small hole and remount the building if this helps

Be sure the culvert ramp is tight against the building. Add shim of cardboard if necessary. Move track in the channel as close to the building as possible.

 If all the above fails, You can send it to me for repair.

Chuck

 www.Only3Rail.com

Chuck, i'll give those tips a try.  Quick question on the type of string to use for replacement, the manual refers to it as 12lb test braided de-waxed nylon spinning line, what is that??  I assume it's some sort of fishing line, any suggestions on what to use?  Also, I wonder if I should switch out the spring. 

Rob, i'm going to have to get some brake cleaner and degrease the whole thing!

Last edited by DomMiele
Chuck, thanks for the info and the offer.  I can't accept though because I already made a commitment to purchase parts from Jeff at ttender.com, and I don't want to be a bad customer and back out. It's okay though, the pieces are super cheap.
Also,  no brake cleaner!  Okay, everything will just get a good wipe down.
I realized also what is probably the source of my trouble.  I don't have a variable output ac transformer, I had wired onto a cheap ho transformer's ac ports!  They are pushing 20volts ac!!! Literature says around 6 to 12 is all that's needed?!?  Oops.  I'm beating the whole thing to shreds! Time to visit the parents and come back with dad's ZW!!!

Chuck,

 I understand your fix for getting the trolley over the gondola; however Dom noted that he also had a problem with the trolley not traveling back far enough for the pickup. We found that you can apply firm but gentle pressure on the vertical shaft assembly so as to shift it towards the gantry. This provides extra travel in both directions. When the travel is adjusted sufficiently the house and roof can be secured in the new position.

 

Dom, Some smoothness can be attained by cleaning the bar on the gantry to allow free movement of the trolley. I agree that new string and a clean grove in the gear work wonders.

 

I look forward to hearing other methods for this balky accessory.

Some

Originally Posted by DomMiele:
Bob, by vertical shaft I assume you mean the piece that extends up through the roof?

Correct Dom, the book calls it the pivot stud. With the house removed use just some even pressure towards the bar. You can do it while it's operating and see the difference.

 

Something that I forgot was the position of the car along the track. The difference of 1/4" is a big deal. The pipe has to hit the high point of the ramp.

Post

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