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Hey Guys,

I have an old American Flyer / Gilbert metal crossbuck signal, which takes two globe type bulbs.  It only has two connecting posts.

I just wanted to set it up at my 90 degree crossroad, and have the red lights come on when a train gets close, by connecting the crossbuck to a short piece of insulated track that is connected to the inbound side of the crossroad.  Easy as pie.

But, I just realized that since the lights will be powered by the juice running through the track, and will not be connected to a fixed voltage source, the brightness of the bulbs will be governed by how high the transformer throttle is turned up as the train approaches.  (Just like automatic turnout lanterns that aren't connected to a fixed voltage plug.)

Give that most trains run at medium to low speed, these lights are going to be really dim, even if I use LED bulbs.   

And what the heck good is that???

Is hooking them up even worth it?

Thanks for any comments.

Mannyrock

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If you use LEDs, 5 volts will be plenty to light them up. Which coincidentally is probably the lowest voltage you’ll see on the rails, no matter how slow you go. You’ll need to choose the current limiting resistor appropriately of course.

Combine that with a voltage regulator and it should work just fine.

People seldom use track power for track-activated accessories. The scheme that is recommended is to provide "common" via the insulated track section, and "power" via a fixed voltage supply (either AC or DC) either directly or through a circuit as recommended by G R John, above. to activate the accessory. This is a standard method, described many, many times in this Forum.

Last edited by Arthur P. Bloom

Thanks very much for all of this excellent advice.

Since my signal doesn't have separate circuits or posts for a green signal and a red signal, my current plan is just to have the two lights either "on" as lighted red bulbs, or "off", as dark bulbs.

As I understand it, I can connect a constant AC voltage current directly to one post, and then just connect the other post to the insulated rail, so that when the wheels of the train connect the opposite common rail to the insulated rail, the electricity will "flow" and the lights will come on?

(Somehow, my brain got switched, and I thought the outside rail was the hot rail, instead of the interior rail.    All of my visible wires are now painted gray, so can't see the "red" wire as it connects to the center rail.)

Thanks for clarification,

John thanks for suggesting that circuit control device, I am going to study it thoroughly for other uses.



Mannyrock

"As I understand it, I can connect a constant AC voltage current directly to one post, and then just connect the other post to the insulated rail, so that when the wheels of the train connect the opposite common rail to the insulated rail, the electricity will "flow" and the lights will come on?"

That is correct. The "hot" supply to the signal must have the same "return" as the track supply. What transformer do you intend to use?

Many thanks to everyone for all of the foregoing advice.

I hooked up my Crossbucks to a short 2.5 inch section of insulated rail, as instructed, and the lights come on and off very brightly as the cars run over it.

And, better, yet, since I put one regular bulb in, and one LED bulb, the "turn on" time for the bulbs when the cars pass over is about 1/2 second different, so the two lights actually flash/flutter out of sync, creating a proper "flashing" effect.   No planned, just dumb luck.

Mannyrock

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