MTP, you know the saying..."you can lead a ..."

Thanks for the lead, I've been avoiding that place for a while...it costs me money! I have the other sideframe version{and in grey}, but one of these days another one to power a weinermobile engine will be needed{I have alot of to-do projects}...those do tend to run on the wide side though since the drive motor is sideways.

 

Hey, I was once young and headstrong...now I'm not young anymore and cut the head strong to only days ending in "Y".

You know its a good kit bash or build day when there's alot of plastic shavings under the workbench - or- that I really need to clean up the floor again.

-Bob

Well, to answer B.R.'s question, the spacing is to scale, and the axles, center to center is right at 1 3/4", and the front on is 2 and 11/16".  The smaller wheels are 33" in real life, and the larger front wheel is 42". 

 

The only way I could use a powered truck for the back would mean I would have to cut a hole in the back or I find a motor truck that is skinny enough to fit the motor and  the gearbox.  I would have to have the truck about and inch or less in height, no more.

 

And one more thing, I may want to power the flywheel, so I ma at some point buy a small motor, like a small 1/2 long motor.  But for know I just want to get the car moving.

 

 

Madison, you can raise the truck bolster higher in the frame to account for any given drive truck you might find if that's an issue for use of it. Width of any power truck is something to consider too.

That auction you were shown- the power truck in question is the same as the one I have here; axle spacing at 2 1/4"...close! The motor though sits out nearly a 1/4" from the outside of the wheel due to the nature of its design.

 

I'd truely suggest the gear drives I showed you...I doubt highly that your going to find any other easy way aside from another type of power truck power truck{mth/lionel?}...sometimes things are close to scale for the sake of the finished project...rivet spacing and patterns, windows, trucks, body scuplting...how exacting to scale is in the eye of the builder.

 

You know its a good kit bash or build day when there's alot of plastic shavings under the workbench - or- that I really need to clean up the floor again.

-Bob

Is that O scale, or 2 rail O scale?  I like the 243HF, but at $120, I don't think I will get it.
 
Originally Posted by hobonorthern:

hi I don't know how far along this project you are right now ,But ETS trains in Czechoslovakia does make O gauge power trucks 

 

http://www.ets-trains.com/

 

Originally Posted by Madison Kirkman:

I don't know, most of these items will not work, although the Q-car one looks plausible, I think the 3-6 month wait is not the best.  I find it hard to believe that the part is so expense, considering that all there is a brass gear box, motor, and an axle.  I think I might try a Marx motor.  Precision scale should have a free downloadable catalog, if they want business like me.

 

The Q-car drive is the premier under the floor drive available - it's all hand assembled & tested and the demand for them is such that the wait is 3-6 months. 

 

Perhaps the challenges associated in your current project will put that into perspective for you.

 

As for PSC, I doubt that their gearbox would work in this application due to size constraints.  Some of the NWSL ones might be better suited.  I've built power trucks using their gearboxes where it did not matter to me if the motor stuck up into the the car body.  There was a good article about how to make those in OST a number of years ago, but I can't find it now.

 

I'll see if I can get a photo on a drive like that I have on my bench posted.

 

Another thought would be to adapt Weaver drive components into a drive unit.  That would be reasonably straightforward.

 

 


Isn't sanity really just a one trick pony, anyway? I mean, all you get is one trick, rational thinking!

But when you're good and crazy…ooh hoo hoo hoo…the sky's the limit!

 

 

 

Here's a possibility for you.

 

NWSL gear box and motor, Q-car pulleys and spring.  For a LWS kitbash of an MP-54 kit that I've been working on forever....


Isn't sanity really just a one trick pony, anyway? I mean, all you get is one trick, rational thinking!

But when you're good and crazy…ooh hoo hoo hoo…the sky's the limit!

 

 

 

Madison,

I have the following NWSL parts new (never run but test fitted):

#250-6, 25 to 1 Idler Gearbox, 3/16" axle

#251-6, 25 to 1 Gearbox, 3/16" axle

plus a few odd parts from a #495-6 universal coupler set

 

You can have it all for $10 plus $3.00 postage.

 

I'll be going into the hospital Monday 8/26 for a few days, and won't be able to respond after 12 P.M., but its not going anywhere. Let me know one way or the other.

jackson

jackson, CEO, Not-So-Great Eastern RR, aka The Never Done Line

          Division of the Southern Adirondack Railway Cartel

 

 

-mbw...nope, you can't 45 the motor....me, I woulda went with another 90 box and had the motor zip tied horizontal right over the truck..but I'm wierd so maybe thats not a good idea....doesn't that spring/belt rub on the truck bolster? 

 

Madison...dude, you should jump all over on that!

You know its a good kit bash or build day when there's alot of plastic shavings under the workbench - or- that I really need to clean up the floor again.

-Bob

I would like to know, out of curiosity, what an idler gearbox means.  And I like the Idea, although I will have to make it a 90 degrees to the truck, but otherwise, that is what I had as an idea from the beginning.  Thanks.

Originally Posted by Burlington Route:

-mbw...nope, you can't 45 the motor....me, I woulda went with another 90 box and had the motor zip tied horizontal right over the truck..but I'm wierd so maybe thats not a good idea....doesn't that spring/belt rub on the truck bolster?

Sure you can.  For the car that this is going into, I certainly can, and it's a pretty common practice for trolley freight motors where the motor won't be seen and it also lets you put a decent sized motor and flywheel in as well. 

 

Anyway, I just posted the photo to give an example of what might be doable.  I could have made the motor at 90 degrees, but then it's very unbalanced and front heavy limiting the traction efort from the second axle.  Horizonal over the truck presents some complications for mounting the drive to the car and making sure there's clearance and mounting space to the car bolster. 

 

No, the transfer spring clears, but just barely!  I made that bolster out of hte heaviest brass that would also work for that spring.

 

OTOH, the more I think about this though, the more I'd just adapt an old Weaver drive unit for this drive here.

 

I just got started on adapting a Weaver drive into the trucks for an IMP boxcab just to see if it could be done and to use the nice spoked wheels that IMP supplied with those engines.


Isn't sanity really just a one trick pony, anyway? I mean, all you get is one trick, rational thinking!

But when you're good and crazy…ooh hoo hoo hoo…the sky's the limit!

 

 

 

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