I feel it took a lot to get this to work.

See my 3 STEPS posted here at the end.....

_______________________________________

 

This is my track plan.

Power drops significantly in the RED area.

 

I have cleaned all of the tracks,

shuffled the straight sections around & re-connected all of the tracks.

HELP!!!!

~Ritchie

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Fastrack is easy to wire.  The trick is to find the connectors.  I went to an electrical supply company and ordered what I needed.  You want the .110 size.  I added a drop to every forth section of track and connected everything together with terminal blocks.  You could replace the three 10" sections with one 30" and eliminate some of the connections.  I'm going to guess that your problem is in the short sections of track.  The 1 3/8 , 1 3/4  and 5"sections don't have tabs for power drops.  Split those three up between the 10" sections and add more power drops where you can. 

Ritchie,

 

 As others have said, if you haven't already, add more power feeds.

 

Even on my simple 6x8 loop, I have four power feeds on the loop.  Before that, I would get a slow down at the farthest point from the one power feed.

 

Jmiller is correct with the .110 connectors for the underside track connections.

 

 

If you're in an immediate bind, your LHS may carry the accessory power feeds that have the .110 already connected to the wire.

Music, trains, boneless chicken farming
David

I hate to be the devils advocate,but are you limited on space?Your going to get bored quickly with this configuration.Fastrak does not eliminate the need for multiple power feeds.Good luck.Nick

                                                                                                                             

Ritchie, when I started building last Christmas I discovered that sometimes the connector tabs on the fastrack needed a little tightening from underneath (especially the middle hot one), or a slight roughening up and then cleaning with alcohol on the surface.   This was especially true on the short pieces.  I also had a couple of the tabs break (Godzilla (aka as grandson) had stepped on the track when it was around the tree.)    A simple continuity tester helped to pin-point the trouble spots. 

 

In my 9'x5' double-loop, three spur layout I have 8 drops, and get 18V on the tester everywhere... 

David

Topeka, KS

For that size layout you really don't need all these power feeds, that's overkill.  Fastrack has a common issue with connections between tracks.  Lionel did a video that basically says to slightly bend the center pin TOWARDS the rail with the outer pin.  That will eliminate your connection issue.  Just bend them only slightly.  They are made of pot metal not solid metal and will break off if you try and bend them too far.  Do that on each track and your connections will be fine.  You can also just run a wire between each piece having the issue since all fastrack has terminals on the bottom to make connections.  Saves a lot of wire than doing feeds.

Sean

I would suspect the 90° crossover. Can you take a photo of the bottom and post it?

 

If you have a set of jumpers with alligator clips, try jumping the underside of 90 common (outside rail) from one side of the center to the other.

 

I think you'll find that the center rail has a plate under the tabs connecting it.

 

One feed should power that track plan.

Carl

Arctic Railroad

Originally Posted by banjoflyer:

Make sure the 1 3/8 track sections have the jumper wire installed if it has the split center rail:

 

Without the jumper the center rail has a break in it.

Mark

Found out the hardway about this piece of track, good advice

 

Brent

if you are still curious, you may want to take the 3-10" sections and connect them directly to one of your TIU channels to see if one of the track joints was the cause of your signal strength problems. I had to bend many center and outside pins to get the right connection "friction" to give me a good signal strength on the layout.

 

Glad you have things working properly: Joe K

Joe K

Spent time this weekend taking a couple of spurs off the main power bus and adding power switches so that they could be turned off (LC, LC+ locomotives).   Two 5" piece sections gave me headaches.   Not sure what material was used to make the outside connector pieces on these two little pieces of track, but swear it wouldn't conduct electricity.  Had the soldering iron going for other things, so ended up soldering little jumper wires underneath--problem solved.  I guess there is "pot metal", and then there is "no metal" ...

David

Topeka, KS

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