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I grew up with 1960s HO, where as long as it went forward and reverse and didn't derail, you were good. "High tech" meant Kadee couplers. So maybe I'm just too much of a knucklehead for recent O gauge technology, where the loco does 47 different things -- until  it doesn't. But maybe I can get some help here....

I have two MTH PS-2 locos that, following long storage, dead batteries, and replacement of batteries with the appropriate J and W "BCR" capacitors, have the following issues:

1. My nice little B&M SW-1 now runs again, lights work, and the couplers release. But no sounds! No engine running, no bell, no horn, no (annoying) cab chatter. Yes, I checked the volume control screw underneath. Have also tried the "reset to factory defaults" sequence in the manual. Still silent. Someone told me that I could turn the sound back on with a DCS controller, but neither my gigantic layout (4x6 loop with a couple of spurs at this point) or my equally gigantic budget really call for Digital, I'm just running conventional. And I don't know anyone with a DCS controller.

2. Also have a B&M Doodlebug gas-electric. Unlike the switcher, it has all the sounds (except for the shutdown sounds after you kill the power -- it just cuts off). Also has all the lights. And the couplers work. But it's stuck in neutral. Have tried the lock/unlock direction sequence in the manual -- it gives me the two horn blasts to show message received, but stays stuck.

The switcher I want to fix and keep. The gas-electric I had hoped to sell, once the BCR restored it to life. But I'm unwilling to put any more money into it, since (especially after shipping it to and from the service) I'll never recoup it on the sale. So -- any suggestions for restoring the missing functions in either unit? Does anyone with a DCS controller live here on the South Shore (MA), and would you be willing to have me stop by and try to turn on the SW-1 sounds?

Beyond those questions, any suggestions for reliable service are welcome. I emailed MTH factory service two weeks ago today, and haven't heard a word, which doesn't fill me with confidence.

Finally, I would take reasonable offers for the gas-electric, as-is. Has seen very little use -- I bought it, tested it, and stored it while I built a new house. More photos on request.

Thank you all for your help!

Jeff Plate, Marshfield MA

doodlebug

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Last edited by Jeff Plate
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 You should be able to get both running even if Conventional is your only option.

Lets address #2 first... I know you replaced the batteries on this one with a BCR however .. how long do the sounds continue on after track power is turned completely off.  Should be approx. 6 or 7 seconds.

 THe SW   Try turning the vol pot up and down a few times. .  Yes a dcs remote might help however keep trying with the conventional reset b/w combination.

Gregg, thanks for the encouraging response. I'll tinker with both in the morning and report back. I'm pretty sure the sounds on the doodlebug just quit immediately when the power is cut, but I'll double check. I know how it should work -- my GP-7 does the shutting-down sounds for, as you said, six or seven more seconds. (Somehow I haven't confused that loco yet.)

Last edited by Jeff Plate

Model numbers help,  Are these PS-1 or PS-2.  If you look at your manual there are instructions for a conventional reset.  For PS-2, one Whistle and 5 Bells in rapid succession. 

Other issue can be a bad speaker, especially for PS-2 5V.

Other issue can be corroded terminal for battery, based on old battery left in too long and gassing out. 

So both can be simple fixes.  G

Gregg posted:

 You should be able to get both running even if Conventional is your only option.

Lets address #2 first... I know you replaced the batteries on this one with a BCR however .. how long do the sounds continue on after track power is turned completely off.  Should be approx. 6 or 7 seconds.

 THe SW   Try turning the vol pot up and down a few times. .  Yes a dcs remote might help however keep trying with the conventional reset b/w combination.

Gregg, as I thought, the sound for the Doodlebug cuts off instantaneously when I shut down the power. In addition, when the "direction" button is depressed, that also kills the sound, and it begins again with the engine start-up sounds --  just as if I had turned the power off, then turned it on again.

As for the SW-1, twiddled the volume screw up and down several more times, and repeated the reset to defaults sequence -- still no sound.

Last edited by Jeff Plate
Train Doctor posted:

I would get in touch with GGG or Gunrunner JOhn here on the forum, I think your B&M is repairable, but they are the guys who can do it. It might be a bad speaker, or volume pot, but it is likely the amplifier on the board for the sounds. What is your bottom line on the doodlebug?

Luke, thanks for the suggestion re GGG and Gunrunner John. As for the doodlebug -- one in the same apparent condition (everything else working, but stuck in neutral) sold on eBay a month ago for $40 plus $15 to ship. I'd want to get the same -- unless someone on here comes up with a miracle cure to restore it to running condition, of course. :-)

GGG posted:

Model numbers help,  Are these PS-1 or PS-2.  If you look at your manual there are instructions for a conventional reset.  For PS-2, one Whistle and 5 Bells in rapid succession. 

Other issue can be a bad speaker, especially for PS-2 5V.

Other issue can be corroded terminal for battery, based on old battery left in too long and gassing out. 

So both can be simple fixes.  G

GGG, thanks for your response. As indicated they're both PS-2. The SW-1 has the 3V, and is item #30-2742-1. The doodlebug has the 9V, and is #30-2190-1. Each has the appropriate version of the BCR installed.

Alas, I'm all too familiar with the "reset to defaults" sequence. Neither unit seems very impressed when I apply it, although the doodlebug does give me the two toots that says it heard me.

Gives me the two toots, but doesn't seem to give two hoots, in other words....

Last edited by Jeff Plate
repair technician posted:

I would do a conventional reset as GGG mentioned 1 W 5B in rapid succession and if works you will get 2 whistle toots, if you do not hear 2 whistle toots it did not RESET!! it must be dine in 1/2 second intervals you may have to practice to get it right but should work ok!

Good luck Alan

Alan, thanks for your response. As you may now have seen in my response to GGG, have (now and previously) tried the reset with both units. The doodlebug does get the message -- it gives the two whistle toots -- but keeps on sitting there in neutral anyway. Same when I try lock/unlock direction sequence.

As for the SW-1, I can only assume I'm sending the reset correctly there too, since it doesn't give me any auditory feedback. The sound stays off.

Probably saying this brands me as old and cranky, but for my money they could have put in a one or two less features and a little more robustness.

Gregg, as I mentioned, I replaced the battery with a BCR. I'm assuming (since it's brand new) that it's behaving as it's supposed to, and the doodlebug does give me the two-toot signal after I perform the reset. However, I will definitely try the 9V just in case. It'll have to be tomorrow, though -- time to get ready for work right now. Thanks again!

I would suggest you take a ohm meter vom and check each wire from the battery connector to where it solders on the board, I have had one engine that had exactly that problem and I had a 2.9 ohm resistance from the 9 volt connector to the board and that was just enough that the sounds cut off immediately!! check both red and black wires one at a time and I think you will find your problem!! sometimes inside the nine volt connector comes loose but the insulation looks like the wire is still connected when in fact it is not, I wasted a lot of time pursuing that exact issue so check your wiring first before anything else ok and good luck!

Alan 

Alan, Gregg, GGG, unfortunately I was at work all day today. But Monday morning I hope to have time to put in the 9V battery and see what that tells us. (A 9V battery I have, a volt ohm meter, not so much, Alan! If it gets down to figuring out which wire is the problem, would a $7 cheapo multimeter from Home Depot do the job? Or what would you recommend, on the definitely economical side? -- But if the next step is that I'm supposed to stick a soldering iron anywhere near the circuitry in my engine, I don't think that'll happen, I'll seek professional help. I'm happy to be able to solder feeder wires to rail joiners, after that I'm beyond my depth!)

Thank you all for your help, I'll hope to report back tomorrow and maybe we'll be a little closer to figuring out the doodlebug at least.

Last edited by Jeff Plate

Jeff I buy harbor freight vom's you can buy them cheap and they are good enough for testing and have ohms, volts, amps and ac or dc ranges great meters any where from $3.00 to ten bucks can beat the price!

Alan

PS vom stands for volt ohm meter ! Marty is a great guy and can get you fixed up and done right!

 

Alan

Last edited by Alan Mancus

Marty, thank you! That would be a great help, and probably much more efficient (and safe) than having me muck around inside the locos. How shall I get them to you, and when would be convenient? My work schedule is kind of irregular -- this week I'm booked Monday afternoon and evening, Tuesday a.m., Wednesday afternoon, Thursday 10 to 3 or so, Saturday evening. Friday's free from 10 a.m. onwards.

My email has been added to my profile if you want to reach me that way.

Thank you for your willingness to help!

Jeff

Last edited by Jeff Plate

Thanks to everyone for all of your replies. It's good to know there are knowledgeable people willing and able to help with both with advice and with hands-on service. I'm glad Marty is close by, but will definitely keep GGG and Gunrunner John in mind for the future, too.

Appreciate your help. Glad I joined the Forum, and look forward to participating in the future.

Jeff

Train Doctor posted:

I would get in touch with GGG or Gunrunner JOhn here on the forum, I think your B&M is repairable, but they are the guys who can do it. It might be a bad speaker, or volume pot, but it is likely the amplifier on the board for the sounds. What is your bottom line on the doodlebug?

Luke, if for any reason you can use a doodlebug with a bad board and missing battery, you have first dibs, for the cost of shipping. Otherwise I'll put it up on eBay for a few bucks on Wednesday night. Let me know? Thanks.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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