I recently removed a PS 2 unit from a steam locomotive that had serious mechanical problems. I transplanted that unit into a Bershire that used to have only a whistle. The donar was a NFW J class engine from an MTH starter set that I picked up for 60.00 knowing that I was going to remove the unit.  The installation into the Berkshire went perfect and I mounted the tacometer correctly. My question is will the locomotive run eratic if the wrong file set is on the locomotive? I left the  J class file on the unit and the chuffing is static like but the whistle is crystal clear. I have downloaded the correct files for a Bershire but will this help. I had no problem converting the smoke unit over and it now puffs. Any advice would be great.

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RRAddict posted:

and the chuffing is static like but the whistle is crystal clear. 

Are you running in conventional mode? DCS?

Is this a 5 volt system or 3 volt PS2?

Does the speaker have any flaking around the magnet? Do you have another speaker of the same ohms or higher to test with?

" on Sour mash and cheap wine " ??

Why go back to DCC when I have DCS!

I am running DCS and it is a 3 Volt system. The speaker looks very good and no crustiness at all. The only other speaker I have is a proto 1 speaker that I know is good. It just didn't make sense to me as the whistle is loud and clear and the crew talk is clear also.

I've had the speakers go bad and the whistle still sounded good. So I shared that here. It can be a bad audio amp. It can be a corrupted sound file. I've even seen where the wires were melted and crushed on the way to the volume pot. Someone crushed them in between the shell and frame.

 Heck, try playing with the audio pot. You may get lucky.

" on Sour mash and cheap wine " ??

Why go back to DCC when I have DCS!

also the starter sets only had 1 meg ram for sound files so you must not put a file if it is larger  then,  the file would not load, ps2 3 volt also made a 2 meg ram ps 2 3 volt boards for larger sound files!

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Describe erratic.  You state it smoke fine, does that mean it puffs with chuff, and you have chuff?  Was the original engine a locosound with a stripes?  What is the spacing of the tach reader?  G

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Sorry I have been away but here is what I have. The smoke puffs in sync but if I go past 16 MPH on the remote it accelerates to about 50-60 but the chuffing does not speed up to get that chugging sound of when it reaches 40-45 MPH. I tried several sound files and I got the best results with this set.  It also makes a hissing sound but I think that may be normal. Please tell me what you think?

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PS 2 Upgrade

I would use Loctite 660 on the shaft if the flywheel is slipping.  Forget about replacing worm gears, it's a difficult task.  You can simply test if the flywheel is loose, just hold the wheels and see if you can rotate the flywheel.

RJR posted:

My recollection is that MTH motors come with the worm--but it's been many years.

The problem is frequently the motor with the proper gear isn't available.

Yes as there is only one position for the tac reader and the tape is new and set perfectly in place.  The tac mount is brand new as it came in an upgrade kit with the tape. I haven't tried glue on the flywheel yet. I let you all know what comes of this. If you have an idea how to get the tac closer please let me know.

As stated, clearly you want very close to 1mm spacing from the flywheel to the tach sensor.  If that's not right, all bets are off.  I "assumed" from your first post that was something that was checked, I suspect I shouldn't assume such things.

Not sure if this is a relevant issue, but from what I see and hear in the above video the engine's chuff rate strangely appears to be 1 single chuff per 2 wheel revolutions (not the opposite typical default setting of 2 chuffs per rev or at least the option of 1 to 6 or 8 chuffs per rev option within the engine's DCS chuff rate settings.

It's a little tough to see from the video (angle, distance and slight shake) but when you slow the video playback to half speed it is easier to see the timing of the chuff to the wheel position.

You can have a steam train ...If you'd just lay down your tracks.

Addict, there may be only one position, but that does not resolve the gap issue, for there are at least three different tach readers, each with different spacing.  Just check the gap and let's go from there.  Hint:  While the number of spacers can be changed, it's a bear; better to get a new one with the correct spacing.

I got the tc mount from the PS 2 upgrade kit so I wrongly assumed it would work. John are sure the distance should be 1mm? That seems awefuly close but I do have two more tac mounts that I will try out and let you all know what happens.  I am pretty sure now that it is the distance causing the problem as it did seem too far away.  I will keep you posted, thanks all. 

I am not only sure, I'm very sure!   FWIW, it's also in the MTH documentation several places.  It should be about the thickness of a dime at max.  It is pretty close when you look at it.  If it's more than about 1.2mm, it'll start missing counts, and as the RPM increases, it'll miss more.

The MTH tach sensor has the same specs as the sensor I use for my Chuff-Generator, and I spent a lot of time characterizing it. It actually peaks at about .8mm in sensitivity. 

Let's just say that you have to fix this issue before it'll ever work!  As for a warranty that this is the only problem, that I'm not willing to give.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I am not only sure, I'm very sure!   FWIW, it's also in the MTH documentation several places.  It should be about the thickness of a dime at max.  It is pretty close when you look at it.  If it's more than about 1.2mm, it'll start missing counts, and as the RPM increases, it'll miss more.

The MTH tach sensor has the same specs as the sensor I use for my Chuff-Generator, and I spent a lot of time characterizing it. It actually peaks at about .8mm in sensitivity. 

For others reading this post. I've run into a couple of engines that the MTH specs have to be pushed to the smaller limit for the tach to work correctly. The spacing was within the limits but the engines ran out of specs. On the one gauge versions for example, I had to grind down the truck tach mount holes to tighten the gap for correct speed matching.

 BTW, I tried swapping out the actual tachs with brand new ones, changed the type of stripes, and even played with different boards on an O gauge engine. I couldn't establish why the tach didn't work correctly. I just found that it did work when the gap was set to the narrow part of the specs. I never have had to widen the gap yet.

 On custom installs you may have to adjust the gap if you're not getting the expected results from stripe changes! 

" on Sour mash and cheap wine " ??

Why go back to DCC when I have DCS!

Why I asked my original questions.  MTH makes several tach readers sizes for PS-2, and even the tach brackets had different spacing, let alone the combination with various fw diameters.  PS-3 is a little more user friendly with 2 different tach holders provided for diesel.  But steam has to be custom fit with the PS-2 reader.  If this was a loco sound to begin with,  you could have left the original Tach reader in place.  G

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The quality of the tach tape has a lot to do with the performance of the tach reader as well.  Make sure it's bright and clean.

John everything is running perfect, I installed a new tac reader mount and a new tape. It runs as it should and I realize now that I had a diesel tac mount installed. I am very happy with the final result that to me is perfect.  This particular locomotive only came with a whistle and I had this and the donar lying around for over two years never realizing I could transplant the PS 2unit.  The JClass was never good and could barely pull the three cars it came with.  I am very appreciative of your and the others help here, so thanks again.

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