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Title says it all, I’m not very versed with with PS1 (20-2154-1) but a club member gave this to me in hopes I could get it to work but it will not budge out of neutral. I’ve attempted to ensure it’s not locked in neutral but I’m not still sure I’ve attached a video with what I can get it to do

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have you replaced the 8.4 you can temporarily install a 9 -volt battery volt battery? then see it it runs, you have possibly have it locked in neutral! you can do a feature reset 18 with a MTH Z4000 transformer!

When doing the reset 18, are you:

Pressing the PROGRAM button, HORN button 18 times until 18 is displayed?
Then pressing the BELL button, allowing the transformer to cycle power?
Are you getting 3 clanks and 3 clinks after power cycles?
Are you pressing and holding BELL button until a garbled bell is heard?
Then pressing the BELL button again to lock in the reset?
And finally, pressing the PROGRAM button, then advancing the Throttle?

Jon G TCA 95-41020

Alan

@zhubl posted:

Title says it all, I’m not very versed with with PS1 (20-2154-1) but a club member gave this to me in hopes I could get it to work but it will not budge out of neutral. I’ve attempted to ensure it’s not locked in neutral but I’m not still sure I’ve attached a video with what I can get it to do

I have a PS-1/QSI loco that showed the same symptom. I learned that these early PS engines only need to see about 8-10v on startup. Any higher and they go into reset IIRC.

Go to page 5 of the manual (attached) for my engine.

Bob

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Zachariah......those early PS1 loco's are very finicky with what transformer they like.

I can only get some of my early PS1 QSI boarded loco's to move out of the "start-up" phase by using my MTH Z1000 transformer.

These same loco's will not, and I repeat, will never come out of "reset/startup" if I use my Z4000 transformer.

See if you can get a hold of an MTH Z1000 transformer, and give it a go, remembering not to exceed 8-10 volts on initial start-up. The lower the voltage (5V) the better, but make sure you have a good, fully charged battery in there!!!

Don't try and get them moving if you have a BCR in there, as you need at least 10V to charge the BCR, and you have to wait for at least 60 seconds for it to charge up....this really stuffs-up the "start-up" program.

Good luck, and as Joe (Transman) said, let us know how you get on.

Peter.......Buco Australia.

So after start up, what sound does it make after a direction change.  You can have an ID conflict and it is locked looking for activation.  This requires a reset of the programming with a special chip. 

It could just be locked in neutral.

It could have a harware fault.

Put lighted lock on on test track and use direction button making sure track voltage goes to zero on direction change, and have a new alkaline battery in it for test.  If it goes silent when direction change, then starts up again, you have a battery circuit problem.  Battery, harness, board.  G

Try to move through resets by raising voltage high and let it start up, then move voltage down low (not off) and back up.  Should then hear one ding.  Do it again.  two dings.  If you don't get anything on the second cycle, the engine has ID conflict and needs reset.  I can do it.

If it can cycle through resets each cycle more dings, and a clank on fifth time.  It may have a bottom board issue.  Also repairable.  G

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