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Just bought a NYC 0-6-0 with PS2 from eBay. Having some issues with the speed of the loco, it doesn't seem to want to move slowly (for example when running at 15 smph, it certainly seems to be going faster than what I would imagine 15mph to be on my layout). Also, the sounds seem a little off - i.e. the sounds seem to indicate a slow labored chuff, yet the engine is moving fast (definitely not 4 chuffs per rev)

I tried a reset - is there anything else I should look at?


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I would suspect that the timing tape for speed control is damaged or otherwise defective. You'll need to remove he boiler and inspect the stripes for one of the following:

  • Tearing of paper timing stripes would cause the engine to run faster than its displayed speed
  • Fading of black stripes towards grey would cause the engine to run faster than its displayed speed
  • If the stripes are painted, they could be overly porous, causing the engine to run fast.

This and a whole lot more is all in The DCS Companion 3rd Edition", available for purchase  from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!




Took the boiler off and the tach tape seems in good condition.

This time when I tried to run, the engine seemed to 'want' to move but stayed still - I turned off the sounds and could hear the electricity buzz but the engine would not move forward. I just oiled the rods etc so dont think thats the issue. Also, the smoke unit seemed to be fanning somewhat erraticly - i.e. not as slow as you'd expect for low smph.

What else can I check

Is anything binding? try turning the Fly-Wheel by hand, It should be smooth all the way around.     One other thing to check would be the spacing between the tack reader & timing tape.. Should be around the thickness of a dime.  Now would also be a good time to check out the battery buy turning off track power to find out how long the sounds continue on... should be around 6 or 7 seconds  with no track power.

Yes.  And our Golden Retriever has also had a steady diet of bunnies . . .

You are correct that in the past, if you pasted in an image, you could see it, but no one else could.  Looks like Hoopla upgraded the software.  That is a nice improvement.  We will see if it survives the next upgrade.



It may be a browser preference that I can't find in Firefox. I tried Internet Explorer old my lone PC and the OGR Forum rejected the browser as being too old (I've turned off Windows automatic updating on the PC).

Regardless, Rich was nice enough to show me how to do what I need t do through html, and it now works fine, as you can see below:


DCS Book CoverThis and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!"

This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!

Have you removed the shell and rotated the flywheel through a complete driver rotation and checked for any binding?  Have you made SURE that no wiring is rubbing the flywheel when the shell is on?  Are the screws on the gearbox tight?  If you wiggle the motor, is it firmly bolted to the motor mount?

What do you mean the flywheel was "binding"?  Binding with what?

I'll give those a try.

initially when I rotated the flywheel it would not rotate a full driver rotation. So I tried in the opposite direction. When I went back to the original direction it would then turn a full rotation. However the resistance I felt when turning varied (i.e part of the revolution was very easy to turn, the rest was still easy but I noticed a change in resistance)

gunrunnerjohn posted:

If you're feeling a change in resistance manually rotating the flywheel, you can stop right there.  You need to solve that first!

I agree. The next question is how?   I can only reply  from my experiences   so here goes.... Turn the fly-Wheel by hand  until it  binds or a change in resistance.. Check out the side rod connections on each driver,  The side rod should have just a slight amount of movement where the bolt goes through to attach it to the driver.. Not very much but some. If there's no movement this could led to the jerky operation at slow speeds... Just loosing off the bolt and tightening it up again may help...

Lube the side rods... I use a small amount of  3 in 1 oil applied with a tooth pick on each  eccentric crank  connections and on the piston. And just about everything else  in the running gear.

I don't think this is an electrical problem. The fire box glow didn't flicker ot dim so I think the engine is picking up power.

  I understand this is a used engine  so it should be broken in with lots of running so there's no use of running the crap out of the engine.... BTW... This is a really neat engine I hope you get it fixed. 

Last edited by Gregg

Did you check the stuff I mentioned previously?  A loose motor mount or a gear mesh issue can cause what you see. 

A close physical inspection of the rods and wheels, specifically the traction tires, will be high on my list.  When you get to a tight spot in the rotation, check all the drive rods for looseness.  If there is one that is tight, see if you can determine why?  Another thing, as you rotate the wheels, see if any axles are bent.  The wheels should track straight and true, no wobble as you look as they rotate.  If someone as dropped it, you could have a bent axle.

Looked again tonight - there is definitely more resistance every 180 degrees - I.e twice per revolution.

I looked at the rods and at certain points they are loose, at others they are tighter. However, loosening the bolts that hold them to the wheels didn't seem to help.

im at a loss, as I don't want to return the engine, since it is just what I need for my layout

Are the 1/2 moons on the drivers in the exact  same position on each driver on one side?  

   Maybe try disconnection the eccentric  crank and do the fly-wheel test again .  That's  the thing that goes in and out of the piston.  

You may even have to  pull  the  motor  but   this time push the engine on the track by hand  to check out the binding.   (no power) While you're there check for any iron filings or anything else that should not  be in the  worm gear casing.    Good hunting.

Barry Broskowitz posted:


Why go on and on about images and Hi- jack the poster's issue he is trying to solve?  G

Lighten up. The OP has yet to respond to yours or Gregg's suggestions.

You got to be kidding Barry, you want me to lighten up after you guys waste all that band with bickering over a picture setting.    You guys need to get a job and stop sweating that small stuff.    G

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