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The early PS2s use the earlier battery or BCR1.  I prefer the later PS2s (battery or BCR2) because my LHS says they have fewer issues with them.  Otherwise, I have had great luck with both.  If I found an engine I really liked, I wouldn't let any of these choices stand in the way of making it a part of my roster.  I do buy BCR1 of BCR2 -- so that adds an extra 20 bucks or so to the cost of the engine, although, you can make a super cap for a lot less.

Mike

@Buco posted:

GRJ: Can I use this type of supercap (DGH155Q5RS) in the MTH PS1 loco's as well??

Peter......Buco Australia

No the PS1 board uses a pair of those in series. As luck would have it you can hollow out the old MTH rechargable battery and both those super caps will fit in it.  I used to add Zener Diodes across the caps but stopped doing that as long as I buy the caps from one seller and they are identical.  As to the question of dependability of PS-2 3v  vs  PS-3 my impression is on dependability the two are very close but the PS-2 3v may have a very small advantage.  However the PS-3 boards have fewer signal reception issues than either of the PS-2 boards.   When purchasing locos for me it's a toss up between the 3v board and PS-3.  Just avoid the 5v board if your not ready to install new boards. I've converted about 15 of the 5v boards to TMCC and though not taxing from a technical standpoint doing it in a neat professional way can at least for me be a bit time consuming.  The MTH boards take care of the chuff and puff timing but when converting to TMCC you either purchase a Super chuffer from Gunrunner J or cobble together all that chuff and puff wiring yourself.   Wish MTH would get the kits back in stock.                j

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Last edited by JohnActon
@John H posted:

One thing I have found is that when you power a siding without a watchdog signal, I can always control a PS2 by pressing startup. My PS3s will take off at full speed 50% of the time.

The very reason that the four channels of my TIU have these Watchdog generators connected.   I don't need any rocket DCS engines on my layout!

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  • mceclip0

This got into the weeds but here's the basic rule:

Either PS2 3V or PS3 is fine. You will get better sounds (and possibly quilling whistle, depending on model) with PS3, but either will run reliably.

PS2 5V is a no go, unless you get it stupid cheap. It will randomly die at some point. If you can't swap to a PS32 board or do a TMCC upgrade to it on your own then pass on any PS2 5V locomotive that comes your way. You're looking at a ~$300 repair bill to have someone fix a dead PS2 5V locomotive for you.

@700E posted:

I'd be a lot happier with my PS3 steam if I could disable the Rule 17 behavior.  I have the DCS handheld controller and the WiFi, and can use either to do whatever trick you suggest.  Thanks!

Doesn't look like it's controllable with PS/3, I was remembering that I can turn it on/off with Lionel Legacy.  I'm a little surprised that there's no control available in PS/3.

The very reason that the four channels of my TIU have these Watchdog generators connected.   I don't need any rocket DCS engines on my layout!

I keep 4 MUs on two sidings that I power through the 2 variable channels that I don't use. I have them set to fixed. I switch them on the input side so they send the watchdog when switched on. It just took me a long time to come up with that idea. I have a couple of PS2 engines on other sidings, but they don't take off, and I can press Startup and they are in command.

@John H posted:

I keep 4 MUs on two sidings that I power through the 2 variable channels that I don't use. I have them set to fixed. I switch them on the input side so they send the watchdog when switched on. It just took me a long time to come up with that idea. I have a couple of PS2 engines on other sidings, but they don't take off, and I can press Startup and they are in command.

I have a total of 13 individually switched sidings, I just found it easier to always have a WD signal, that way there's no mistake.  I worked on a scheme with switches, relays, and a TIU channel, but this is a whole lot easier.

I don't want them starting up until I'm ready since they have sound, smoke and lights.

@John H posted:

One thing I have found is that when you power a siding without a watchdog signal, I can always control a PS2 by pressing startup. My PS3s will take off at full speed 50% of the time.

Your PS3 stuff is probably locked in conventional forward and needs a reset. I've never had a PS3 locomotive power up in conventional by accident and take off. It'll just turn on the headlight, charge the super cap, power on, and just sit idling. I can just hit startup on the DCS remote and it's ready to go.

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