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I found GGG's solution of 1W 5B Engine reset in Conventional mode and tried it.  No luck.   I have 4 PS3 Engines that all work well in DCS mode.   Three of these operate in Conventional mode, however my 30-1638-1 Camelback B&O Steamer will not move.  It starts up, smokes, bell and whistle work but won't respond to direction button. 

Try as I may I cannot get any of the 4 PS3 Engines to respond to an Engine Reset sequence.  I never hear "toot-toot" acknowledging the command.   I'm using a MRC Pure Power Dual Supply which is very similar to the MTH Z4000 in power, of course without the special MTH circuitry.  I wonder if it has anything to do with the question?  I'm wired as below for easy switch between DCS and Conventional mode. 

TIU Wiring

Any suggestions much appreciated?

Dick

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  • TIU Wiring
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Well Guys, you really know your stuff.  I isolated the TIU from the track first and was able to use any of the bell/whistle commands just fine.  The stubborn engine that would not move is fine now.  Your suggestions helped me think thru the poor wiring and switch position I used and I will change it around so the switch isolates the TIU from the track when running conventional.  Comments elsewhere to add 10A fuses between track and power sources sound like a good idea too.   The MRC Power supply so far seems to work fine but I also found that it was not in the list of recommended, of course that was after I bought it. 

I think we can close this one out with "lesson-learned". 

Thanks for your help.

 

Dick,

I will change it around so the switch isolates the TIU from the track when running conventional.

Just remove the switch altogether. It's completely unnecessary.

To operate your DCS engines conventionally, just use the Menu command to turn off the DCS signal on all channels. Then, to later operate under DCS,  use the same menu command with the AON soft key to turn the DCS signal back on.

This and a whole lot more is all in The DCS Companion 3rd Edition", available for purchase  from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book.

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Gregg posted:

You could try  the dcs remote for the whistle/ bell combination with a var channel. As Barry mentioned the dcs signal  must be turned OFF.   Menu/system/ dcs set up /.   select or highlight the channel and then OFF.

Scroll the voltage up to around 10 volts and do the combination.

Killing the DCS signal worked for me, now I can postpone a rewire. 

Thanks

Barry Broskowitz posted:

Dick,

I will change it around so the switch isolates the TIU from the track when running conventional.

Just remove the switch altogether. It's completely unnecessary.

To operate your DCS engines conventionally, just use the Menu command to turn off the DCS signal on all channels. Then, to later operate under DCS,  use the same menu command with the AON soft key to turn the DCS signal back on.

This and a whole lot more is all in The DCS Companion 3rd Edition", available for purchase  from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book.

Barry,   The reason for the switch was for the guys at my club who won't touch the DCS control.  I'm disappointed that they just don't want to learn about DCS.  I guess they were just humoring me when they let me install it.    By the way, I attended the York seminars last fall and bought the 3rd Edition and its well worth it, as I am slowly making my way thru.  Many thanks.

I recently had a stubborn RK ES44 that would start moving in reverse with no sounds that I could not get the reset to take.  I tried DCS and the engine stayed quiet until SU.  I did a feature reset, followed by factory reset with the remote.  I switched back to Conventional, and it was fully reset and did not move!.  So that is an alternative method to try.   The other issue could be an engine locked in reverse needs the conventional unlock vice reset to unlock it.  I did not try that method, but it has worked before,  G

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