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As you all know, the PS3 upgrades are on the way.  I did a PS3 Diesel upgrade for testing last September.   Mike informed me I can now share information and pictures with OGR Forum members.  MTH is now releasing the replacement boards to replace old and worn 5 volt boards.  The platform that MTH is using is the PS3 diesel board with a plug in adaptor board.  This adaptor board allows you to pull out your PS2 5 volt board and plug in this new board.  Your new board will now make your locomotive a PS3 locomotive less the battery and associated hardware.  You will need to load a PS2 3V file or an updeted to 3V 5V file.   MTH is using the diesel board in the conversion and upgrade kit.  To tell the difference on the two adaptor boards, the 5 volt version will have black (HIROSE) connectors and the 3 volt board will have white (CHYAO SHIUNN) connectors.  The part number on the diesel board is AE-1000035.  The 5 volt adaptor board is part number AE-1005v36 and the 3 volt adaptor board is AE-1003v36.  A new heat sink number IC-0000026 is needed. The first few pictures will show the diesel board and adaptor board for 3 volt plugs.  This is what you will see in your upgrade kits.

 

The next picture will show a PS3 board set (bottom) with a PS2 board set to show you they are about the same size.  I will then show the PS3 mounting bracket (top) next to a PS2 bracket.  FYI, the holes line up even with each other.

 

The next picture will show both the 3 volt and 5 volt adaptor boards.  The 3 volt is the one on the top with the white Chyao Shiunn connectors.  The 3 volt board is plugged into the diesel board.  Using the diesel board with the adaptor boards is a good deal as the adaptor board has plugs that go into the diesel board firmly unlike the 40 pin connector on production diesel locomotives.  The next picture will show the adaptor board with the firm plugs.

 

Next two pictures are of PS3 5 volt set ups.  As mentioned earlier, pull your 5 volt board out and plug these in and your engine is now a PS3 engine with the proper or updated sound file loaded in. 

 

The next picture is of a 3 volt adaptor board.  Please notice the two pin plug on top of these 3 volt and 5 volt adaptor boards.  These are not for a battery.  These will be used for later slave connections.

 

The last pictures are of a PS1 Mass Bay F-40 PH.  Original PS1 to PS3.  The PS3 kits will be easier to use than the PS2 kits.  Both PS2 and PS3 share the same speaker and all wiring harnesses.  To do my early PS3 upgrade, all that was needed was to substitute the PS3 board for the PS2 board as in a standard upgrade. 

 

 

I know many will have questions and I will throw out all I know at this point.

 

 

 

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Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry
Original Post

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The PS32 boards will be available to the tech guys.  The upgrade kits can be purchased by everyone.  Matt, the boards you want are available now.  Total plug and play.  Pull the 4 pin, 5 pin, 7 pin, 8 pin, and 12 pin off your blown 5 volt board and plug them into the replacement board.  Good to go.  You do not have to do anything with the Mux.  Just plug in the board.  All existing wire stays in place.

Originally Posted by RJR:

Norton, "PS1" is the pre-DCS sound system.  When I upgraded my non-MTH locos to PS2, I gutted all the wiring except for the wires from the rollers.

RJR, I understand that. What I am asking is will this kit contain all the connectors, lights, couplers, tethers, etc that used to be included in the PS 2 upgrade kits or is it a scaled down kit that reuses those components and only intended for MTH PS1 engines.

 

Pete

Last edited by Norton

Pete, I'm not Ralph.  Not having seen the PS3 kits, I won't venture an answer.  But, the PS2 upgrade kits did not include a volume pot (re-used the PS1 pot or you could use alternatives), and included a standard gap tach reader which might or might not have the proper gap for your particular loco.

 

RJR

Pete, the PS3 kit will have every item the PS2 kit had.  The PS3 kit will be less the battery and related wiring.  The PS3 upgrade I did was a PS2 kit with the PS2 board swapped out for a PS3.  Everything will be present to do whatever locomotive you want.  When Mike first came out with the PS2 upgrade kit, it was intended to do PS1 locomotives.  It did not take long before the guys were doing almost anything that ran on rails.

 

I have done 148 PS2 upgrades and 2 PS3 upgrades.  I  have done Weaver, 3rd Rail, Atlas, and Williams.  I am happy the guys will get the PS3 kits but more happy that all of us with PS2 5 volt boards will have a plug and play option to make those locomotives PS3.  

 

I know MTH bashers are lurking but I want to say I know how much energy MTH has put into this program and being an operator I am thankful to MTH and the great people at MTH R&D.

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

No problem, Pete.  I've been called worse---much worse!

 

Marty, problem is, as I understand it, that the P&P to upgrade 5-volt to PS3 will not be made available directly to the public.  Have you been able to check whether a P&P 5 to PS3 board will fit inside a steam loco, where the 5-volt board is located in the loco/

At this point, as stated above, the only change to the PS-2 Steam Upgrade kit, is they remove the PS-2 board, battery, battery harness and heatsink kit and replace it with the PS-32 board, and heatsink kit.

 

Diesel could be the same, but they have not released it yet.  I think Diesel upgrade harness are the hold up.

 

As far as fitting they are similar other than connector location and height as compared to the PS-2 board.   There are some small locomotives where speaker is in the frame not in the fuel tank, or short tenders where the fit may be interesting.

 

As an example I am doing a repair to a 5V FF electric.  The shell is not tall and the speaker is inside the engine.  Despite a very long chassis, the room to place a 3V board is tight, and it looks like I need to mimic the upside down mounting.  With the 12pin connector elevated over the speaker edge.  Not sure if the PS-32 to will fit.  To be continued, and I will post pictures.  But it will work for much of the conversions and repairs, and it also can work with the PS-2 slave boards.  Actually has a 2 pin connector that is used for the motor signals with better output.   G

Originally Posted by Marty Fitzhenry:

Pete, the PS3 kit will have every item the PS2 kit had.  The PS3 kit will be less the battery and related wiring.  The PS3 upgrade I did was a PS2 kit with the PS2 board swapped out for a PS3.  Everything will be present to do whatever locomotive you want.  When Mike first came out with the PS2 upgrade kit, it was intended to do PS1 locomotives.  It did not take long before the guys were doing almost anything that ran on rails.

 

I have done 148 PS2 upgrades and 2 PS3 upgrades.  I  have done Weaver, 3rd Rail, Atlas, and Williams.  I am happy the guys will get the PS3 kits but more happy that all of us with PS2 5 volt boards will have a plug and play option to make those locomotives PS3.  

 

I know MTH bashers are lurking but I want to say I know how much energy MTH has put into this program and being an operator I am thankful to MTH and the great people at MTH R&D.

Thanks for all this information Marty. I too am grateful for MTH 's hard work in making these kits available.

 

My question is will there be a DCS/DCC switch included in the kit or does one have to purchase that separately? As we all know there wasn't a DCS/DCC switch in the previous PS2 upgrade kit.

 

I know this is obvious but I feel it needs to be mentioned. I would be careful when replacing a blown board and reusing all the existing PS2 wiring, lamps, smoke unit,etc because if that original board blew on it's own you're OK but if there was some kind of short circuit that took out the original board and the short is not repaired you most likely will blow up the new board.

 

 

There is a jumper connection, so you could easily add your own switch or just use the jumper.  G

 

Here is a picture comparison on a MTH Premier FF-2.  PS-2 5V to PS-2 3V to PS-32. 

 

The PS-2 5 and 3V had a variety of ways to be mounted.  The PS-32 will have less, so some fits will be tougher as I mentioned in an earlier post.

 

More flexibility with sound files though and the latest flash code has the stm/diesel/electric/articulate and Quillable Whistle file.  Trolley and electric pantographs will require a separate flash, as will a few other unique engines I believe.

 

G

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Images (6)
  • IMG_0483: Origional 5V board
  • IMG_0484: Shell height issue
  • IMG_0485: PS-2 3V right side up
  • IMG_0486: PS-2 3V upside down
  • IMG_0487: PS-2 3V to PS-32 comparision.
  • IMG_0488: PS-32
Last edited by GGG

Marty, I only remember the GG-1s...  This was for a customer that the 5V failed.  The cab is pretty short so I think there might be an issue with the PS-32 fitting, even on the diesel bracket.  Unless you go with a smaller or flat speaker.  Here is the final with a PS-2 3V upside down.  That fit nicely, but you can see the top of board is at the fly wheel height. and just enough room left for the truck harness to swivel, with the 12 pin just above the speaker edge.

 

This was the FF-2. Looks like MTH only made 2 variations of this.  Like a Y1 but with passenger effect.

 

It was neat with PSA "arriving in Philly, Villanova, off to Paoli".  Brings back memories.  G

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Last edited by GGG

I have not heard any more on that John.  My friend Locolawyer is a huge LED headlight guy.  I just cut the incandescent bulb off the wiring plug and install a bright white 3MM LED with a 560ohm resistor on the + leg.  Works perfect for headlight and backup light.  I am sure that is close to what you do.  I have used this combination for years and never had a problem.  Myself I like the old look.

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Marty, is there going to be an option (other than what we do now) to have direct connections to LED's for upgrades?  For upgrades, I normally dispense with the bulbs and use LEDs anyway, it would be nice if that were PnP.

 

I imagine that would drive the price up.  Adding limiting resistors to the board, LED in the kit.  G

I am OK doing it this way.  Another way is to go from the rollers to the LED with rectifier diode and a 1K resistor inline with the + leg.  I see no other need for a LED as the marker lights on the locomotive are already LEDs.  Being older my memory of steam is very clear.  I always remember the thrill of seeing the New Haven I-5 blasting through Readville with the yellowish headlight.
 
 
Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

hi Marty

i have a 30-1172-1 proto 2 blue comet.

i bought it and it's DOA. from a seller, claims it was new in box and it looks it as well.

i have desoldered the 2 brds and found swelled caps and most of the caps are not near specs.

also the rectifier is ohming out to meg ohms.

if i were to upgrade it, i wish to go with the  original 5 volt ps2.

would it be cheaper to skip the original ps2 and go to the ps3 set up?

all i want to do it get the blue comet back to where it should be right out of the box or better.

whom can i get the brds from and is it easy enough to convert back to original or ps3?

please let me know as i have it on my bench now and thinking about trying new caps and see what happens, i did de-solder the 2 brds and plan to put them back together.

please let me know 

thank you for all you have done.

ron

hello guys

im trying to get ahold of GGG or gunrunnerjohn, i guess if they read this i need them to contact me on repairing or selling me what it takes to repair my blue comet. 30-1172-1. its power supply brd i shot and or the lower brd as well, they are both soldered together, i checked the caps and they are way out of spec.

please let me know either GGG or gunrunner,   either guy.

thank you

ron

i would also like to add, that if anyone on here is converting there steam engines to PS3, would you like to sell your old PS2 boards?

i have a blue comet 30-1172-1 and if you want to sell your old brd, to make money to go to PS3 let me know

i would probably buy at least one or maybe more, depending on price and if you dont need the brds, my brds are 2 soldered together, power supply on top i think anyway. 

please let me know

thanks guys.

ron

It should be noted that the PS3 upgrade boards and PS2/3 replacement boards are still running the PS2 sound files and software. All you are really getting is a PS2 board without a battery circuit. Now if you rewrite the boards to a PS3 chain file then you may or may not lose functionality of some components but will get a PS3 sound file but you will lose the ability to rewrite the board back to a PS2 sound file. Everybody is all hot to trot on upgrading PS2 to PS3 and there is no point being that there is actually little to no difference in PS3 boards in a PS2 loco. Still running PS2 sounds and no LED lighting so there is no point in upgrading PS2 to PS3

Originally Posted by Marty Fitzhenry:

The PS32 boards will be available to the tech guys.  The upgrade kits can be purchased by everyone.  Matt, the boards you want are available now.  Total plug and play.  Pull the 4 pin, 5 pin, 7 pin, 8 pin, and 12 pin off your blown 5 volt board and plug them into the replacement board.  Good to go.  You do not have to do anything with the Mux.  Just plug in the board.  All existing wire stays in place.

Thanks Marty. I'll go that route when the upgrade kits hit the streets.

hello
read some of your profile, your gonna love this:
my dad and i are helping restore the champagne lady yes she is quite the
plane, lets just say its a B-17 bomber up in urbana ohio.
they also have a B-25 called the champagne gal also, it is to cool.
let me know about the 5 volt PS2 brd.
thank you
ron


In a message dated 3/29/2015 1:29:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
alerts@hoop.la writes:
Originally Posted by ronnieredline:

he has so far rebuilt 3 out of 4 superturbo chargers, all wing flap axles and gear boxes, and is now working on the bombay doors and linkages.

he has restored 3 superturbo chargers and is trying to get 6 total, they only need 4 but want 2 spares, he is restoring them to 0 hours.

man is it interesting to say the least.

WOW..Cool..I know this is off topic, but please get some pix of the B17 and the B25...Love them!!!

The Base Board is a PS-3 so I am assuming, (as Marty mentioned it has not been discussed in the tech note yet) that it has the characteristics of PS-3 so it should pick up DCS signal on either rail for 2R operation, or DC operation.

 

John as far as LED, I don't think they are cheaper.  Retail, they are much more expensive.  While bulk buying from China is cheap, you still have to wire them up.

 

MSRP for a LED harness is $10, for a bulb it is $4 or 5.

 

Sure the bottom board is LED based, but then you have to go with the 40 pin connector and wiring.  While this works for diesel, it doesn't for steam which is otherwise a 2 board set up.

 

This becomes a apple or orange discussion, which do you like better.  While your big into LEDs other aren't.  Plus if you go LED you can't use bulbs and for UPGRADES where much of the original bulbs can still be used, you require more work changing stuff.  Especially big steam and diesels. 

 

Now, I did hear they were still debating how to go with the Diesel Kit.  So it may in fact become a straight PS-3 like kit. 

 

I think June is the target to get Kits into the market.

 

Ron, why not start a separate post on your subject.   G

Originally Posted by ronnieredline:

hello guys

im trying to get ahold of GGG or gunrunnerjohn, i guess if they read this i need them to contact me on repairing or selling me what it takes to repair my blue comet. 30-1172-1. its power supply brd i shot and or the lower brd as well, they are both soldered together, i checked the caps and they are way out of spec.

please let me know either GGG or gunrunner,   either guy.

thank you

ron

At this point I'd do the PS32 replacement, buying an old 5V board is a bad investment.  So many of them have died percentage wise that I'd be pretty worried about any old used 5V board.  We can get the PS32 replacement boards now.

 

 

Ron, It is not that big a deal to me, but the hi-jacking tends to make the initial thread too long and disjointed.

 

A new thread gets you direct answers specific to your questions, which were many.

 

I sent you an e-mail with info you requested.

 

If you search on this forum you will also find many specific post on how to repair your 5V engine, with PS-2 3V or now also the PS-32.   Almost all of your questions are answered in those threads.  G

Matt Makens, it is a big deal to the guy who has a prized locomotive with a bad 5 volt board.  Many people could care less about a LED steam locomotive headlight.  I have seen a few steam locomotives in my life and love the nostalgic old headlights. I for one would be very happy with my locomotive running new boards instead of boards made 14 years ago.  I also feel that running without a battery is a huge plus.  I know all about the BCR.  I do not use them.  

 

I have done more that my share of PS2 upgrades and one of the things that are not fun is setting up the battery charging port.  Locomotives exist that are a challenge for battery location also.  I have also installed a few sound files and have no problem with the PS2 3 volt sound files.  MTH has given people an option on fixing locomotives.  I have a few prized locomotives with the 5 volt board.  I cross my fingers each time I press the start button.  MTH has given us a way around this.

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry
I agree with Marty. Not having to mess with the battery charging port will be nice.

I got the ASC update and I would imagine with the DCS/DCC jumper it should have the polarity capabilities for 2rail.

Just when I thought I was getting the hang of all this. Well I guess it's back to school again. Lol

I must say this is all well thought out. Can't wait to see more.
Ralph

While I don't find having to install a battery to be a particular problem, especially since smaller 2.4 V battery packs have become available, I agree that the charging port can be a problem.  I like to save that for last, when I have all the other components placed.  Therefore, before drilling are enlarging a hold for the charging port, I have to remove the speaker and other components so that they don't get fouled by metal filings.

Nice to know there is a replacement.  So when one of mine pop I can send it to MTH for repair.  Just a little too scary reading the posting especially the "its just simple plug & play".  Being retired EE I had my share of plug and plays that didn't do well in the sandbox.  Because once you buy the kit and it doesn't work, its your word vs MTH, so you would end up sending it back to MTH to fix even if it was a bad out of box board, how would you prove it? 

But thats just me, your mileage may vary

Last edited by rrman

The replacement for the 5 volt board is plug and play.  The upgrade kit is a different animal.  That has to be done the same as the previous upgrade kit.  Later this year will be the board sets for replacing boards in a PS2 3 volt system.  In picture 7 you will see the top board with the black connectors is for 5 volt systems and the white is for the 3 volt systems.  The bottom board is the same on both applications.

 

I have a board set on the way for my New York Central Niagara with the 5 volt board.  

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

As stated, MTH has had a transition plan for boards.  We replaced 5V with PS-2 3V boards with 5V connectors.  As 3V wind down, the first supply chain to dry up was the PS-2 3V with 5V connectors.  So when tech's order AE-15/16, MTH sends the PS-32 5V instead.

 

The PS-32 3V version has not been issued for replacement of PS-2 3V with 3V connectors yet since MTH still has AE-10/11 in stock.  But they did release it in the first PS-3 upgrade kits.  So it is around the corner.

 

Here is another piece of info that I was able to pick up.

 

As stated in a few post, it is designed for use with PS-2 3V sound files.  As the code in the PS-32 pickups the gear ratio and hardware data (light features, smoke control) from the PS-2 sound file.

 

PS-3 has it's own hardware table in the flash code specific to PS-3 engines.  What I found out is PS-3 sound files will work properly in PS-32 also, because by procedure, the sound file engineers still included the hardware table in the PS-3 sound file.  Even though PS-3 boards get the information from the firmware table.  You just load the sound file, not the flash code.

 

The one caveat is that gear ratio and lighting may not match for a specific engine.

 

If you load the specific file from your engine PS-2 upgrade file for PS-2 5V engines, or PS-2 3V for 3V engines you get the original sound file and characteristics.  Maybe some PS-3 kept that all the same, if so it would work.  Diesel ratio as an example seem to be the same.  But PS-3 lighting on diesels can be totally different from model to model because of the expanded lighting capability of PS-3.  G

 

 

Now I am not only bewildered, I am confused.  USed to be simple:  One upgrade kit for steam, one for diesel, and a third, available only for techs, to replace 5-volt boards.

 

Now it seems there are:

 

1. PS3 with connectors to replace PS2 5-volt boards ("3/2") techs only.  Will fit in steam locos that had boards in loco

 

2. PS3 with connectors to replace PS2 3-volt boards, techs only and not yet available.

 

3. PS3 steam upgrade kit with complete wiring, anyone can buy.  Has one board in tender and one in loco.

 

4. PS3 diesel upgrade kit with complete wiring, anyone can buy.  Not yet available.

 

1 & 2 are the same boards but with different plug-in boards on top,

 

Am I correct, or still befuddled?

Robert,

 

It's no more complicated than before:

1. PS3 with connectors to replace PS2 5-volt boards ("3/2") techs only.  Will fit in steam locos that had boards in loco

These replace the older 3 volt boards with 5 volt connectors that were only available to techs. These will go anywhere that the older PS2 3 volt boards with 5 volt connectors would go

 

2. PS3 with connectors to replace PS2 3-volt boards, techs only and not yet available.

These replace the older 3 volt boards with 3 volt connectors that were only available to techs, except where they were sold in the PS2 upgrade kits. These will go anywhere that the PS2 3 volt boards with 3 volt x=connectors would go

 

3. PS3 steam upgrade kit with complete wiring, anyone can buy.  Has one board in tender and one in loco.

Same deal as previous PS2 steam upgrade kit.

 

4. PS3 diesel upgrade kit with complete wiring, anyone can buy.  Not yet available.

Same deal as previous PS2 diesel upgrade kit.

 

1 & 2 are the same boards but with different plug-in boards on top,

Correct.

Originally Posted by RJR:

Now I am not only bewildered, I am confused.  USed to be simple:  One upgrade kit for steam, one for diesel, and a third, available only for techs, to replace 5-volt boards.

 

Now it seems there are:

 

1. PS3 with connectors to replace PS2 5-volt boards ("3/2") techs only.  Will fit in steam locos that had boards in loco

 

2. PS3 with connectors to replace PS2 3-volt boards, techs only and not yet available.

 

3. PS3 steam upgrade kit with complete wiring, anyone can buy.  Has one board in tender and one in loco.

 

4. PS3 diesel upgrade kit with complete wiring, anyone can buy.  Not yet available.

 

1 & 2 are the same boards but with different plug-in boards on top,

 

Am I correct, or still befuddled?

RJR, The PS-3 upgrade kit only has one PS-32 board for the tender.  No board in the engine.

 

I don't think MTH will say the PS-32 can always go in the engine.  Since only PS-2 5V had boards in the engine, the repair might require an upgrade like kit to put the board in the tender.

 

Frankly this has always been this way as far as boards.  AE-10/11 and 15/16 tech only (at higher cost), even though you could buy upgrade kit with AE-10/11 in it.  G

GGG, the numbers "AE-10/11 and 15/16" are meaningless to me, not having a parts list.

Your statement "Since only PS-2 5V had boards in the engine, the repair might require an upgrade like kit to put the board in the tender." is interesting.  I have 2 steamers left with 5-volt boards, both in loco, and have 2 PS2 upgrade kits on the shelf which I acquired to replace them when needed.  MF had opined that if he were replacing an in loco 5-volt board, he'd opt for a re-do with board in tender.  Seems that that would be the way to go, so I'll just hold onto my kits.

 

Which then leaves the question, what does one do about marker and other lights in the loco when the board is moved into the tender?  I guess one way would be to install a CV board (with choke) and just leave the marker and firebox lights on all the time??????? Or add a relay onto the headlight circuit?????

 

I had been told by someone who should know that PS3 steam upgrade kits would have 2 boards, one in loco & one in tender.  I guess he erred????

Last edited by RJR

AE-0000010 and AE-0000011 are the boards used in PS2 3 volt locomotives and PS2 upgrade kits.  These are the power (11) and processor (10) boards.  There is nothing complicated about any of this.  

 

If you do not like any of this you do not have to buy any of it.

 

I often wonder when people make a lot of noise, have they ever done a PS2 upgrade.

 

 

I sometimes find that a lot of people who  always have negative comments,  have not done any of this work.

 

John, I have never seen any feature the kit will not address.

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

Also, if you have a premier locomotive that has additional lighting options, you lose all those with an upgrade kit, you only get headlight control.

 

GRJ:  Why do you limit your statement to Premier?  I have R-K's that have marker, interior, firebox lights.

 

Marty, I hope your comment isn't directed to me.  I was a tad confused when the leading 5 zeroes were deleted from these numbers.  I don't have a master parts list. 

 

While I have a dozen or so upgrades, I have not done an upgrade to a 5-volt in-steam-loco board; when one failed, I replaced it with another 5-volt board taken from a diesel.  If I were to go to a tender-mounted board, how would I not lose the ability to turn marker lights and firebox lights on & off.  There is no lead from tender to loco for such functions.  It's been well over a year or two since I had one of those locos open, so I may be mistaken, but I don't recall any other boards.

 

 

Robert not at all.  I am just saying I know of no feature lost that John mentioned.  If the tender has marker lights, they will work if the sound file has them.  The sound file may or may not allow them to be turned on/off.  We have all run into something that would not cooperate.  Just find another sound file.  Ditch lights are a common one.  Firebox is usually a function of the MUx board.   

 

Let me know when you get the email I just sent you.

 

Marty

Last edited by Marty Fitzhenry

RJR, Those numbers have been thrown around plenty on post.  They are the parts #.  Sorry I left off the zero's

 

I have yet to meet a MTH PS-2 5V engine that would not take a PS-2 3V board in the engine.

 

I just point out there are alternatives if you can' fit it in an engine.

 

At this point, having tried to put a PS-32 in a FF Electric and just completed one in a RTR 4-6-0 starter tender, there will be fit issues because the board is taller, doesn't mount upside down (yet) and therefor position is more critical.

 

Big engine, tall shells, won't be an issue.  Others just might take more planning.  Good news is no battery or charge port.   G

 

The 4-6-0 tender had the speaker in the front.  SO the board had to be mounted in the back.  The tender slopes down at the back, and the mounting bracket raised it too high. So I had to exclude the mount and go direct to the chassis.  Basically had a smaller foot print on where I could put the board.

Marty, my point is the upgrade kits don't include the mux boards, so you don't have the extra lighting controls.  If you move the board from the locomotive to the tender, any extra lighting controls that you had get lost.  What you lose is the individual control of the features.  On many locomotives, you have separate control of the cab lights, marker lights, and headlight.  If you rip the old 5V board from the locomotive and install the standard upgrade kit in the tender, you have one lighting control, the headlight.

 

One of the benefits of PS/2 electronics was additional controls, but they tend to get lost with the upgrade kits.

gunrunner has said this before guys, if he thinks its not worth the upgrade, then it isnt.

Wrong.  It is up to the owner to decide if an upgrade is worth it.  I also don't recall GRJ ever making such a blanket statement.  I have upgraded locos over 60 years old.  Economically not justified, but because they were given to me by my parents, because I don't like to see them unused, and because I want to run them under command control along with my modern MTH stuff, to me they were worth the upgrade.

 

GGG:  I should have studied the thread and realized that the leading zeros were being omitted.  Mea culpa! There was a statement in the above thread that the PS3/2 upgrade boards might not fit in some locos, and you have pointed out specific instances.  This is what renewed this issue for me. 

 

GRJ:  I have to study the pinouts, but I suspect that adding a submini plug & socket set between tender and loco would enable these functions without a mux board.  I have used these in converting a tiny steamer which had no room for the 10-pin socket.  Personally, being able to turn on/off firebox glow or marker lights is not necessary; what I want is loco control.  In fact, one of the 1991 Weaver diesels that I upgraded has a beacon atop the cab, which I left hard-wired.  It flashes whenever track is powered, and I have found it a good feature.  ((FYI, RF&P switchers in Potomac Yards used toll have these so tower could see where they were.)

All valid popints Marty, I have a steam loco with PS3 and the LED headlight bugs me because it looks wrong with its white/blue light and yes the charging ports are a PITA. I was trying to be more to the fundamental operation of the PS3 kits and its more PS2 than it is PS3. I dont use BCR's and I find the batteries to be a PITA as well and not having to deal with them would be nice

You can certainly add tether pins (an extra tether) and add functions, they're available on the PS/2 or PS/3 board, assuming the sound file supports them.

 

I was just pointing out that the standard upgrade kit doesn't support the extra functionality out of the box.

 

Matt, you can swap that headlight out for a warm white if you don't like the color, or even a yellow one.

 

Upgrade kits were always sold to consumer.  This has been posted before.  The PS-2 3V upgrade kit at $180 MSRP and $150 Club was the best thing going.  If you sent an engine to MTH for repair, excluding labor, the replacement cost of the parts was $200 boards and $34 for the steam hardware kit.  So $234 in parts alone.

 

The PS-3 will be more expensive based on the note (estimate $20 to $25, but the official price has not been posted yet.   G 

Ok, I have installed a PS-32 in an S-2 Bantam Turbine to replace a engine mounted PS-2 5V.  Tight fit but it fit with relay facing forward.

 

I also installed one in the tender of a RTR 4-6-0 set with the 5V board in the tender.  In this case the speaker is forward were the tender shell is tallest, so the board had to go towards the back were the shell slopes down.  Had to mount the board directly to the chassis without the metal bracket provided.

 

Later I will be installing one in a Premier NYC Dreyfus engine, and the Unshrouded N&W J.  I will try to remember to take pictures.

 

The current flash program in this board has headlight output with diesel characteristics.  I have the new file that fixes this and have successfully installed it.

 

So hopefully it will be posted soon.  For those that have purchased kits or are using them in upgrades, you will need the new hardware table to get the headlight correct on steam.   G

I just did my first PS-32 upgrade last week.  I installed it in a F7 ABA set and used the original slave board for the trailing A.  It was a pretty smooth installation.  I did lower the board mounts but that was pretty easy due to the fact that there is no battery.

 

I think this design is pretty cool and will open up some other possibilities for those of us who like to tinker.  I do wish we could use the PS3 sound files.  Some of them are better than the upgrade files.

 

I also feel that these kits will be well worth it if the cost increase is not significant.

 

Dave

 

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