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The 6A max rating on the input is just that, we don't support any supplies with higher current output.  The MTH Z-1000 brick has a 6A breaker on the output and is the maximum input supported for the DCS Explorer.

The 5A fuse is there to try and protect the Explorer in the event someone, of course this would never, ever, happen, ignores the 6A input rating and puts an arc welder into it.  There is a current sensing circuit that is very sensitive and fast but, with enough current, may not respond quickly enough.  The 5A fuse is there as a last resort to save the device.  If anyone is blowing the 5A fuse then, they should switch to a different or lower output supply.  This would indicate a problem.

The max current output from the DCS Explorer is 5A.  However, in model railroading, current draw varies significantly.  Engines going around a curve can increase momentary current draws by half an amp or more.  So, the practical steady state current draw is really closer to 4A or, so.  When you get to that level and then increase speed on an engine from say 30 to 100 smph, the current sensing circuit may do it's job and shut down.

This is an entry level product intended for train sets and small beginner layouts.  It is not a solution for O ga hobbyists.  We have the WIU/TIU combination for you guys.

Casey Jones2 posted:

Will it operate in passive mode??

Unfortunately, the Explorer does not support passive mode.  Unlike the aux power input on the TIU, the input power on the Explorer is also track power.  Said differently, if you connect the Explorer passively, it will not even power up.  If you connect supplies to the input and output, bad things can happen.

Well shoot...Reason I was asking about passive mode is for the battery powered installs in large scale. Right now I have to strip & stuff a TIU & WIU into say a boxcar or baggage car. The Explorer would have been great for these installs but a 4 amp continuous load rating limit is kinda discerning.

The guys that I deal with have some huge outdoor layouts that in no way can be track powered as we're talking 1,000's of feet of aluminum track...Battery power is the norm. 

Last edited by Casey Jones2
gunrunnerjohn posted:

For 1000's of feet of track, I think he can afford the full DCS to run the train.

You miss the point, the track  is not powered.  The G scale carries the batteries and therefor has to have the TIU also, plus WIU if using that too.  G scale guys have been asking for a smaller single channel TIU for a while.   G

The other solutions don't compare to a PS2 or 3 equipped loco. The costs are double or triple and nothing can really compare to ProtoSounds smoke output...or sounds.

Another point is I can take 2 of the exact same type of locomotive, PS2 or 3 one of them, DCC the other and the Protosounds one will draw half the amps of the DCC version. I've seen that many times over the years. The DCC decoders will run warm if not hot (there's a reason why DCC decoder install directions say keep away from plastic components) while the DCS decoder locos run nice & cool. DCS PS2 & 3 decoders are the most power efficient design I've ever seen....Heck the QSI Titans need a small fan blowing on them??!!

Casey Jones2 posted:

The other solutions don't compare to a PS2 or 3 equipped loco. The costs are double or triple and nothing can really compare to ProtoSounds smoke output...or sounds.

Another point is I can take 2 of the exact same type of locomotive, PS2 or 3 one of them, DCC the other and the Protosounds one will draw half the amps of the DCC version. I've seen that many times over the years. The DCC decoders will run warm if not hot (there's a reason why DCC decoder install directions say keep away from plastic components) while the DCS decoder locos run nice & cool. DCS PS2 & 3 decoders are the most power efficient design I've ever seen....Heck the QSI Titans need a small fan blowing on them??!!

I put 7 MTH dash 8s on the rails together. When I looked at the amps I believe it was at 2..... for all of them! (smoke turned off)

Watch the first few seconds as I press start up...

I kept having control issues creep in last year. It ended up from leaving the track down all winter with brass connectors. I swapped most out to stainless now and cleaned the rest (after 5 years). It's nice to test more often in conventional to see any problems.

 If I didn't have all stainless, I would go battery! (and maybe Bluetooth?)

 

I'm liking this as an option for large scale.  

Apart from Lash-ups and trolley stuff, what else is missing from the app?   

Would this work behind a Large Scale PS2 Steam Engine like the Hudson?  What would I miss out on?   

Lash-ups won't be a problem if its a model with a master - slave board setup like an F7 / F3?   

I bought one of these for my Christmas layout and plan to use a Z-750 brick for power. The z750 has a rated output of 21 VAC. Can I run Lionchief engines, like the Hogwart's at this voltage?   Some of my TMCC owner's manuals say never exceed 18v, but the Lionchief engines don't have the same precautions. The layout is a simple folded figure 8, so it wouldn't  be too tricky to swap power supplies, but I'd prefer to use just the MTH brick if possible.

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