Thanks Chris. It's glue. I can see the dried remnants on both the stip and the body. I was wrong about the body being brass. It's clearly tin. It had a yellowish tint, but some of that was a reflection I was seeing.
George
A plastic sheet or clearcoat protecting the lettering would be my guess.
The rectifier doesn't have to be IN the train. You can do that behind the present ac trasformer on a toggle for ac/dc and second on/off/on 3pos or dpdt toggle for direction changing.
Adriatic posted:The rectifier doesn't have to be IN the train. You can do that behind the present ac trasformer on a toggle for ac/dc and second on/off/on 3pos or dpdt toggle for direction changing.
I think I am going to toggle my DC power supply to the track. I have been testing with a P.H. Hobbies PS3 filtered DC 3 amp power supply that I have for G gauge trains. It runs the engine very smoothly and has fine slow speed control. I was worried that it had too much power for this engine since the engine is rated at 12 volts and the power supply can put out 20 volts, but the throttle seems to have nice voltage control at the low end of the range.
One thing I will need to do is to ensure that the section of track I use this on is completely isolated from a separately powered block that could be running AC with a different train. I usually connect loops with switching track and it could cross over a Standard gauge loop.
George
I was still on the 20v rating for ACE mention outright. 18v would be enough for near max speeds on a 20v motor, I'd guess is would like 10-15v normally.
Rated at 12vdc I'm usually at 6-9v. And 6v at 1.5-3, 3v at 1.5max, and a 1.5v motor on a plastic 0-4-0 fame(L) that I'm having trouble with; in slowing it down enough to stay railed 
George S posted:
Here are the trains I bought.
The window inserts are loose in the Darstaed cars. I’ll need to fix that. The Bassett Lowke is a limited edition that was customized with a different name. It runs on 12 volt DC, so I am going to need a smaller transformer than my G scale.
The engine is named Sir Frederick Banbury who was chairman of the British Great Northern Railway. His middle name was George.
George
That's a pretty train for sure. Those are so tempting. Hey, if your designing a new layout, don't forget about the Merkur Turntable, I think it would be large enough to handle that loco!
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"Hey, if you're designing a new layout, don't forget about the Merkur Turntable, I think it would be large enough to handle that loco! "
Those are very nice and should have been priced twice as much! Unfortunately, they have been sold out for years. I made one that I will try to get working again. Mine is 36" long and can handle my Allegheny. 
It may need some dressing up to make it look more like tinplate.
George
Could someone post a picture of and describe the correct way to couple these drop link couplings? Is a link from only one car used to capture the hook?
Thanks!
George
George S posted:Could someone post a picture of and describe the correct way to couple these drop link couplings? Is a link from only one car used to capture the hook?
Thanks!
George
George you just have to use one link to couple two cars, no more.
You have buy a very nice model, Very best, Daniel
I took a trip to Menards and picked up 16 sections of O96 curve and got her running.
I also bought Gorilla Clear Grip contact adhesive and glued the windows into one car. I still have one to do. This glue doesn’t ruin the window plastic if you make a mistake. It easily pulls off.
I’m not sure the smoke unit works. It hasn’t yet. The boiler light does and didn’t at first.
George
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George S posted:I took a trip to Menards and picked up 16 sections of O96 curve and got her running.
I also bought Gorilla Clear Grip contact adhesive and glued the windows into one car. I still have one to do. This glue doesn’t ruin the window plastic if you make a mistake. It easily pulls off.
I’m not sure the smoke unit works. It hasn’t yet. The boiler light does and didn’t at first.
George
Gorgeous
The sound on tubular tinplate track on carpet is so soft! These motors are quiet. Fastrack on plywood is very loud and older prewar tends to howl.
George
George S posted:The sound on tubular tinplate track on carpet is so soft! These motors are quiet. Fastrack on plywood is very loud and older prewar tends to howl.
George
Too quiet. Screw the track directly to the ply!
Conan what is good in life? I say:
The rumble of heavy trains on tube track,
The howl of prewar serial wound AC motors,
and the smell of ozone!
Hah!
Yep, that's some good pad we installed under that shag!
Each train has its own personality. Not much ozone in this one with the DC can motor. I'll need to break out my Ives 1122 to get some ozone cooking.
George
George S posted:
Hey George, If your turntable doesn't work, we do make them in Standard Gauge. Here is one we built. It is 34"
George S posted:I took a trip to Menards and picked up 16 sections of O96 curve and got her running.
I also bought Gorilla Clear Grip contact adhesive and glued the windows into one car. I still have one to do. This glue doesn’t ruin the window plastic if you make a mistake. It easily pulls off.
I’m not sure the smoke unit works. It hasn’t yet. The boiler light does and didn’t at first.
George
This looks absolutely fantastic George. I hope you're very happy with it. Tell me, does the Menards 096 track join seamlessly to Lionel tubular?
O Gauge Guy posted:George S posted:I took a trip to Menards and picked up 16 sections of O96 curve and got her running.
I also bought Gorilla Clear Grip contact adhesive and glued the windows into one car. I still have one to do. This glue doesn’t ruin the window plastic if you make a mistake. It easily pulls off.
I’m not sure the smoke unit works. It hasn’t yet. The boiler light does and didn’t at first.
George
This looks absolutely fantastic George. I hope you're very happy with it. Tell me, does the Menards 096 track join seamlessly to Lionel tubular?
The Menards track is great in my opinion. It joined perfectly to my old Lionel tubular track. I also used a Menards tubular - Fastrack adapter and that worked well too.
George
@Nick12DMC posted:I converted a Darstaed A4 Mallard to TMCC. As my son asked Santa for a Lionel Mallard.
It was relatively straightforward after some help from Guns, Jon Z. and the Forum.
The loco has a DC motor so was converted to a ERR Cruise Commander which fitted in the tender. Use Guns top tip of a MTH tether for the wiring between the tender and loco.
I added Railsounds small engine sound board and speaker in the tender with a reed switch and magnet on a tender wheel for the chuff. You could use Guns chuff generator.
The Darstead front lights were fine when powered via the Cruise Commander board. I added a Lionel fan driven smoke unit controlled by Guns Super Chuffer.
The Darstaed Fire box glow bulb was replaced with a direct screw in 24v LED bulb normally used in industrial control panels.
To complete the Set, Mason has a set of Darstaed Thompson teak coaches. The LEDs in these worked perfectly on 18VAC and required no modification. However I disconnected the table lamps in the dining car as these did not like AC. A bridge rectifier would sort this but I’ve not gotten round to that yet.
Nick
Nice! I just received my first ACE locomotive from an auction! Its impressive for a "course scale" locomotive..from working buffers to the tender bridge plate [Mind the Gap!]
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