Question regarding o gauge tubular track and switches

Just my opinion, but I like switch machines to have their own power supply. But I also like operating accessories to have THEIR own power supply. If you do LED building lighting (probably a good thing) then the building lighting needs it's own supply (old lionel operating accessories and LEDs want different kinds of power). And now you're down to signals. Depending on whether they are bulb or LED and how many there are, you may or may not be able sponge signals power from one of the other supplies. But as you might have guessed by now, I also recommend a separate signals power supply. Color code all wiring. BE ORGANIZED. If this seems like a lot of complexity, you should try tracing down a short or crossed-connection when everything is all lumped together into one nice big ball of wire. That is the nightmare we all want to avoid.

Bottom line is use your transformer for running trains. Run everything else some other way. The trains are going to need everything you've got--and then some.

Don

While the KW transformer is a good one, it still may not be enough to power the trains, switches, lights and other accessories. It seems you have post-war stuff.  I would recommend getting a ZW transformer.  Use it to run your trains and power the switch tracks.  Use the KW to power accessories and lighting.  

I have a kw running two unconnected loops of tubular, on a 9 by 9 table, ten switches total (with led bulbs) creating sidings & spurs. PW and more modern locomotives seem to use around 8-16 volts when operating, pulling long (for this layout) consists of ten or more cars.  The single kw seems more than adequate for running two trains, and I really like this transformer.   But what I found out is how unusable the kw’s fixed voltage options are. I use the A & B with U being the common, and the 6-20 volts this provides the tracks is perfect. Unfortunately this combination also gives the basically useless fixed voltage choices of 20v and/or 6v...neither of which is really good for anything.  

I was given the fantastic advice of buying a cheap1033 transformer to power the accessories, lights, and switches.  I paid under $13 for mine, and it’s handling all of my layout’s fixed voltage needs perfectly, the 1033 has so many options for different fixed voltages.  I’m using C as the common, with A providing 16v to power the switches & several big accessories... B gives 11v, great for led building lights, slow moving accessories, signals etc.  At only 90 watts, two 1033’s would be necessary if you retain your switch’s incandescent bulbs.

Ditto the above, the kw 20 volt output is too much for 022 switches. Bulb life will be short and hot. I have a 16 vdc power supply for these switches. They snap really well, don't chatter or buzz, and dont overheat. Plus you dont have the annoying sparking whenever wheels are crossing the non derailing tracks, that you get with ac power.

You should also consider swithing the bulbs to led, which use way less power and produce no heat. Town and Country Hobbies is one source for these.

Rod

Ok sounds like great advice and I do like the idea of switching the LED lights. Sounds like a dumb a question, how hard is that to do?

I also have another question for you if you don't mind. I have one switch that no matter what I do it will only stay in the position to send the train to the curved track. It is a right handed o22 switch. I switched the wires around and it still will only let me go to the curve part. When I try to move it manually it will not let me. Any ideas?

Pick a fixed voltage and ask GrayBar for a step down transformer.  Cheap, reliable.  Use one color for power to the track switches.  John in Lansing, ILL

FireWrangler63 posted:

Ok sounds like great advice and I do like the idea of switching the LED lights. Sounds like a dumb a question, how hard is that to do?

I also have another question for you if you don't mind. I have one switch that no matter what I do it will only stay in the position to send the train to the curved track. It is a right handed o22 switch. I switched the wires around and it still will only let me go to the curve part. When I try to move it manually it will not let me. Any ideas?

The LED's are plug and play in the same sockets as your current bulbs. They have red and green for the remote, and a clear bayonet type for the switch lantern.

The problem switch sounds like a shorted non-derailing rail issue underneath the base. You do have insulating pins in both non-derailing sections, especially the curve out one, right?

Rod

Ok the LED issue sounds like an easy fix then, thanks!

Yes I do have insulator pins in all the switches, 17 of them so far, and they are all in the same place in each switch. I will take the switch apart and see what I can find. I do appreciate the help. It is driving me nuts!

You are most likely going to find that the solder joint in the lower right hand circle below has broken and the conductor has fallen free of the non-derailing segment, and is in contact with the lower baseplate. This shorts it out and the switch always wants to be in the curved position. Very common 022 problem.

This picture shows a permanent fix for this problem, so it won't ever happen again. Simply bridge the joint with a short length of tinned wire and solder securely. Be careful to not accidentally solder it to the adjacent grounded section of curved rail also. In other words maintain a non-connected end gap in the two rail segments.

Hope that helps,

Rod

Oh that is awesome! Thanks so much I can fix that!

Once you have done one you will be an expert! 👍

Rod

The general consensus of most experienced modelers is that all accessories including track switches should be powered separately from the trains. Also, in many cases, DC is a better choice for accessory power than AC.