I am planning on re-lettering a newer (2010) Lionel engine. What I have read, seems that no matter what method you use. Removing the lettering will mess up the base black paint. Before I begin this was wondering if anyone out there has used Krylon Black satin paint (rattle can) to paint just sections of a Lionel steam engine? And how well / close it matched the rest of the engine. I don't need to repaint the entire engine, just cab area and tender. The boiler will not be repainted. Is there a different brand of paint someone has used that matches better? Have checked and read the searches on relettering but couldn't find any good information on paint. Thanks
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There are several 'black' paints. Modelers have used Grimy Black for engines and tenders. Brushed on and dried, 'gloss' the area, apply the decals and weather. You'll be fine. Using a rattle can for small areas may be akin to using a shot gun to kill a fly. John
Hi John - Thanks - But I don't plan on weathering the engine - Like the Lionel satin finish (That is what I'm calling it).
I used Testors semi-gloss black with an air brush with good results for touchup. I just painted a whole engine with Krylon satin and it is on the shiny side. I was told by someone who has painted a lot of Marx steamers that Krylon satin has changed.
My friend and I used Krylon's Clear Coat on one of my prewar PRR switchers and it came out very nice...look here halfway down page 2:
Tom
rrgeorge, my dear friend Nelson Deal, the proprietor of the former N&W train Shed who has since passed was by far one of the best post war repair guys I’ve ever seen. He always used Krylon black satin rattle can paint. Too me it was a perfect match.
Don’t pick up the black can of paint just yet!...I remove a lot cab numbers and tender lettering and never harm the underlying black......Lionel used two types of paint for cab numbers etc,...enamel & acrylic. ...these are generally pad printed on. ....try 91% alcohol first, use a small bit and just dampen a rag and see if that wipes away the numbers. If not, do the same process with lacquer thinner, again, just ever so slightly damp. NOW, if the lacquer thinner did the deed, let the underlying black “heel” back up, ....in other words, leave it alone for an hour or so before messing with it. The black will have been slightly softened but will harden back up once the lacquer thinner gases back out,...
Pat
Like Pat, I was also able to remove numbers from an mid 2000’s Lionel docksider using mineral spirits.
I have found Krylon semi flat black. #1613 to be a great match for postwar Lionel black. The only drawback is that it’s in their industrial line, not the consumer line. You can’t find it at hardware stores etc. I have had to get it online and usually get about 6 cans.
You didn’t say what your using as far as lettering and numbers. Some form of painting will have to be done. Decals work best on a glossy surface. If your going the route Pat suggested. You can get by using Clear Gloss. Apply the decal and then hit it with Clear Gloss again. Then a final coat of Satin.
If you are using Dry Transfers. Just apply them over the black. Then seal them with Satin Clear.
If you have to use black paint. Their are a lot of spray cans available. From the large cans at Home Depot or Testors from a hobby shop. There was a poster years ago that had good results using the SEM brand of automotive paints. Pricey for a spray can but the results in the photos he posted it looked good and was a match to what Lionel was using on their newer Hudson’s. They offer Satin Black and I’m guessing that’s what he was using.
@Dave_C posted:You didn’t say what your using as far as lettering and numbers. Some form of painting will have to be done. Decals work best on a glossy surface. If your going the route Pat suggested. You can get by using Clear Gloss. Apply the decal and then hit it with Clear Gloss again. Then a final coat of Satin.
If you are using Dry Transfers. Just apply them over the black. Then seal them with Satin Clear.
If you have to use black paint. Their are a lot of spray cans available. From the large cans at Home Depot or Testors from a hobby shop. There was a poster years ago that had good results using the SEM brand of automotive paints. Pricey for a spray can but the results in the photos he posted it looked good and was a match to what Lionel was using on their newer Hudson’s. They offer Satin Black and I’m guessing that’s what he was using.
Good point about what’s being applied,...as far as SEM satin trim black,....that would be me,....this can will shout 20 locomotives, ...possibly more,..😄....it lays so smooth, and color hides so well,....this is a urethane product, not a cheap enamel. Available on line, or at auto paint supply stores....expect to pay 15-20 bucks per can ( maybe cheaper on line) .....
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I have used Krylon Black Satin rattle can to paint replacement boiler fronts on Lionel PW steamers when the jewels broke off. It was very very close you could barley tell if at all.. I think i only noticed it because i painted it!
Plan on using decals - Will try what Norton advised either 91 alcohol or thinner.
Was concerned with the color and finish match. Lionel engines seem to be painted a satin. Will see what happens.
Thanks for all the advice
I have a lionel 0-6-0 dockside that I removed the USS painting with isopropyl alcohol. Very easy with no harm to the underlying black paint. Here's the before,
And the after results. I weathered the locomotive with acrylics oily black and white then shot it with rattle can acrylic matte finish.