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I am planning on re-lettering a newer (2010) Lionel engine.  What I have read, seems that no matter what method you use. Removing the lettering will mess up the base black paint.  Before I begin this was wondering if anyone out there has used Krylon Black satin paint (rattle can) to paint just sections of a Lionel steam engine?  And how well / close it matched the rest of the engine.  I don't need to repaint the entire engine, just cab area and tender.  The boiler will not be repainted.  Is there a different brand of paint someone has used that matches better?  Have checked and read the searches on relettering but couldn't find any good information on paint.  Thanks

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Don’t pick up the black can of paint just yet!...I remove a lot cab numbers and tender lettering and never harm the underlying black......Lionel used two types of paint for cab numbers etc,...enamel & acrylic. ...these are generally pad printed on. ....try 91% alcohol first, use a small bit and just dampen a rag and see if that wipes away the numbers. If not, do the same process with lacquer thinner, again, just ever so slightly damp. NOW, if the lacquer thinner did the deed, let the underlying black “heel” back up, ....in other words, leave it alone for an hour or so before messing with it. The black will have been slightly softened but will harden back up once the lacquer thinner gases back out,...

Pat

Like Pat, I was also able to remove numbers from an mid 2000’s Lionel docksider using mineral spirits.

I have found Krylon semi flat black. #1613 to be a great match for postwar Lionel black. The only drawback is that it’s in their industrial line, not the consumer line. You can’t find it at hardware stores etc. I have had to get it online and usually get about 6 cans.

Last edited by Ross

You didn’t say what your using as far as lettering and numbers. Some form of painting will have to be done. Decals work best on a glossy surface. If your going the route Pat suggested. You can get by using Clear Gloss. Apply the decal and then hit it with Clear Gloss again. Then a final coat of Satin.

If you are using Dry Transfers. Just apply them over the black. Then seal them with Satin Clear.

If you have to use black paint. Their are a lot of spray cans available. From the large cans at Home Depot or Testors from a hobby shop.  There was a poster years ago that had good results using the SEM brand of automotive paints. Pricey for a spray can but the results in the photos he posted it looked good and was a match to what Lionel was using on their newer Hudson’s. They offer Satin Black and I’m guessing that’s what he was using.

Last edited by Dave_C
@Dave_C posted:

You didn’t say what your using as far as lettering and numbers. Some form of painting will have to be done. Decals work best on a glossy surface. If your going the route Pat suggested. You can get by using Clear Gloss. Apply the decal and then hit it with Clear Gloss again. Then a final coat of Satin.

If you are using Dry Transfers. Just apply them over the black. Then seal them with Satin Clear.

If you have to use black paint. Their are a lot of spray cans available. From the large cans at Home Depot or Testors from a hobby shop.  There was a poster years ago that had good results using the SEM brand of automotive paints. Pricey for a spray can but the results in the photos he posted it looked good and was a match to what Lionel was using on their newer Hudson’s. They offer Satin Black and I’m guessing that’s what he was using.

Good point about what’s being applied,...as far as SEM satin trim black,....that would be me,....this can will shout 20 locomotives, ...possibly more,..😄....it lays so smooth, and color hides so well,....this is a urethane product, not a cheap enamel. Available on line, or at auto paint supply stores....expect to pay 15-20 bucks per can ( maybe cheaper on line) .....

Pat849F8625-95F5-4D29-8B85-80DBDADD4672

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