Questions on 1122 Switches

That post with the metal base is the track ground, and your track(train) transformer(s) must share this common ground with your accessory common. Also, you must still use the fiber pins in the switch track trigger rails. There should be no modification to the wiring for the switch track trigger rails or the binding post wiring on the 1122's, just the "hot" or center rail wires(one from each coil - they are tied together where the two solenoid coils meet) cut from the feed to the center rails and soldered to a pigtail exiting the switch machine housing for connection to the accessory tap or transformer. Make sure the wiring is insulated from the switch chassis.

Thanks Rob. A couple of things:

- Yes, I am fairly certain I did the modification of the 1122s correctly, as three of the four work as they should. I have the fiber pins in the correct spot. I should add that the switch in question does not work with either the non-derailing feature or when controlled separately with the switch controller.

- With respect to the ground issue, I realized there was a mistake in my original post. I have a postwar TW (not a KW), and the Z-1000. On both transformers, there is a separate accessory ground. On the TW, I have the track powered from posts C and U on the transformer, and accessories powered from posts E and F. On the Z-1000, there are red and black posts on the controller itself, and then the power brick has separate hot and common posts for the accessory power.

Thanks.

Evan

You will have to go back to the basics - check the non-working coil for continuity, and 9-11 ohms on each solenoid coil. If they check out, you have a bad electrical connection / solder joint, and you will need to chase it down with a VOM/continuity meter.

If the coils are good and the mechanism is not binding, there is no reason this can't be fixed.

Biker2679 posted:

... I have a postwar TW (not a KW), and the Z-1000. On both transformers, there is a separate accessory ground. On the TW, I have the track powered from posts C and U on the transformer, and accessories powered from posts E and F...

There is no separate accessory ground/common on the TW, it is "A" - same as for the track.

Your track should be powered with "A" to lockon clip 2(outside rails), and "U" to lockon clip 1(center rail).

Accessories should be connected to "A"(common) and then pick the fixed voltage tap that best fits the use - for switches probably "D".

Rob, thanks very much. Changing the wiring as you suggested eliminated the issue of the train being activated when I threw the switches! Cant believe I screwed that up. In any case, the only issue I am seeing now is that there is substantial sparking when the train travels over the switches. Any thoughts?

I still need to pull apart the non-working switch and test as you described above, although given how inexpensive these are, I am not going to waste too much time monkeying with it.

Evan,

   Do yourself a big favor, pick up another good old 1122 switch, remove the faulty switch and completely rebuild it, outside the layout.  You can usually pick up a 1122 switch, fairly cheaply at any train show.  If you do not have the time to rebuild the switch pitch it, lots of good one's still available.

PCRR/Dave

Biker2679 posted:

,,,  the only issue I am seeing now is that there is substantial sparking when the train travels over the switches. Any thoughts?

All normal.

Now, just be sure you do not park a train on a switch with the transformer on, the coils in the switches stay energized even when the train is stopped.

Good to see you are back in business. The TW can be a tricky transformer to work with despite its usefulness.