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If the top of Gargraves tin plate rail is dented approximately 1/32inch or less, I have overlaid the dented areas with Kester ''44" rosin core electrical solder using a Weller Professional 260/200 watts soldering gun. Once the solder cools, use varying grits of emery cloth to reshape the soldered area to blend in with the adjacent head (top) and sides of the rail. Make sure these is no grease, paint, oil or other contamination in the area(s) to be overlaid soldered, I use an automotive spay metal cleaner/degreaser prior to soldering, applied with a paper towel and wiped dry, if required.

Last edited by John Ochab
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Originally Posted by John Ochab:

If the top of Gargraves tin plate rail is dented approximately 1/32inch or less, I have overlaid the dented areas with Kester ''44" rosin core electrical solder using a Weller Professional 260/200 watts soldering gun. Once the solder cools, use varying grits of emery cloth to reshape the soldered area to blend in with the adjacent head (top) and sides of the rail. Make sure these is no grease, paint, oil or other contamination in the area(s) to be overlaid soldered, I use an automotive spay metal cleaner/degreaser prior to soldering, applied with a paper towel and wiped dry, if required.

That's exactly how I've done it on the club layout. It's a lot faster than de-ballasting and re-installing a track section and holds up well. Also worked to fill a hole that had formed on a rail.

Last edited by AGHRMatt
Originally Posted by AGHRMatt:
That's exactly how I've done it on the club layout. It's a lot faster than de-ballasting and re-installing a track section and holds up well. Also worked to fill a hole that had formed on a rail.

Not to mention if the dented track has been weathered; approach track to a bridge; Ross switch component; and, etc.  Plenty of situations when cutting out the dented track is not the preferred repair.

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