Repair Situation on MTH Dash-9 Diesel Engine.

@LNCNo8Brkr posted:

I have an MTH Dash-9 Diesel Engine, Product No. 20-20117-1, Proto 3.0.  When I place it on the track and apply power, I get no response at all.  No lights, no sounds, absolutely nothing.  I've looked at the wheels and pickups, they are not unduly dirty.  Tried calling a local MTH authorized dealer, however they are not doing any extensive repair work due to lack of parts.  The shop suggested I bring the engine in and put it on their track, so they might give me a clue.  Doing that involves about an hour's drive each way.  Can anyone on here give me a clue as to the problem or suggestion on getting a repair.  MTH is not taking repairs in at their HQ site either.

I have cancelled my preorders from the last catalog due to issues about parts and service. I just dont need the stress. Its a shame to spend alot of money and being stuck. Just my opinion. I will buy freight and passenger cars when available but wont preorder ever again.

People will need more specifics to start:

1. Conventional or command control ?

2. Transformer, track and set-up connections, please.

3. Did this engine work before ?

4. Is this the only engine that does not work ?

This is a PS3 engine. Pop the cover over the setting switches and make certain the mode switch is set for DCS, not DCC. Operate the switch several times and leave it set to DCS. I presume you are operating conventionally since you mentioned nothing about a TIU or remote. If that is the case, put the engine on the track and power up. If all is well, it will respond normally with sounds. Cycle the throttle and advance the voltage. The engine should move out. 
If operating with a TIU, silence is normal. Wait a minute, then add the engine to the remote. Address it and it should start up.

Chris

LVHR

1. Running Conventional.

2. Z 4000 Transformer, Atlas Track, Not sure what you mean by setup connections. normal connections to 3 Rail track.

3. Yes it had worked before.  It is a Christmas tree engine, but when brought out this Christmas, refused to respond.

4. All other engines on layout work correctly.  I do have other engines with some issues, but not related to this one.

I'll have to admit, I am worried about the MTH situation.  I do not have a large inventory of MTH engines, but they do represent a significant investment.  Left wondering what our options will be in the future.

Do not despair.

There are Forum members who are outstanding MTH Authorized Technicians (not me) who can repair your engine. I expect they will chime in on this thread, offer you some free advice, and if that does not work, they will email you their contact information so you can ship your engine to them, diagnose the problem, give you an estimate and repair your engine at a reasonable cost.

This is one of the great benefits of being a member of this Forum. Arnold

Both switches are set to DCS and 3 Rail operation, cycled the switch as suggested.  I am not running this track through a TIU at this time.  Straight conventional.  No response.

Here are two pictures of the switches that must be set correctly in order for the engine to work in conventional mode. These switches can easily get moved when handling the engine.

Look at the bottom of the engine underneath the front truck near the fuel tank. The switches must be set to DCS and 3-rail.

Frequently, the issue with them being totally dead is the junky 2-rail/3-rail switch.  They're using a 10 cent switch to switch track power to the whole engine.  The switch is actually rated at 1 amp I believe.  I've taken a number of them out for people, and even done it to a couple of mine.  When the switch gives me trouble, it's history!

I would pull the body off and look for any obvious faults; missing or loose wire nut, pinched wires, loose plug, broken solder connections. The screws to remove on 99% of MTH diesels are integral washer phillips head screws.  Probably has 4, 6 or 8 of them.

- Be sure pickup and ground wires have tight connections on the trucks.

- Be sure the PS3 plugs, the 8-pin and 40-pin are fully seated.

- All wiring must go over the top of the 4 capacitors on the PS3 board.  If they are under them the DCS signal will be compromised.  Bend the caps up, pull the wires out, fold the caps down and place the wires over the caps. Use zip ties to secure the bundle.  Be sure no wires are over the screw holes in the frame or side rails that could be pinched when the body is reinstalled.

-  Measure continuity between the roller pickups and red wires on PS3 power plug. You can also power up the loco and measure AC voltage at that plug.  Likewise, measure continuity at the solid wheels and black wire at the PS3 power plug.   If none, measure between the rollers & wheels to the 2/3 rail switch.  The 2/3 rail switch disconnects the center rail red wire and connects the brown wire for 2-rail operation.  As John stated, the 2/3 rail switches can go bad.  Usually the culprit is the contacts inside the switch are crushed when they are assembled.  Either replace it or bypass it.  Photograph or note the wiring on the switch.  There are nimerous connections.

- If the board is getting power and a reset does not bring it back to life, it is likely a board failure.  Some ASCs can check a few components on the board that are replaceable, but the board may need replacement.

With MTH closing, owners of these trains can either rely of the established ASCs or do a little troubleshooting on their own.  It's not rocket science.  Some issues are simple and an easy fix.  I can't tell you how many billables I get that are simple repairs that cost the owner $40 in shipping both ways and $25-$55 in labor just to tighten a ground screw or reattach a wire nut.