Replace PS3 boards

Jeff,

I'm an MTH-trained tech. I do my own repairs and those of friends. Following are my comments regarding your issues with the engine.

 took to local hobby shop who found 3 blown fuses which were replaced

That's very interesting, since there are no fuses in a PS3 engine.

they said the boards needed to be replaced again

Did they test the boards on a PS3 test fixture, perhaps using a set of golden master boards? There is no way to make a diagnosis as to a PS3 board's operation without doing so.

called MTH Jan 2014 who said the replacement boards would be $200-220 to replace and take 14 weeks because it is now out or wannanty. 

There are typically two boards in a PS3 steamer. They are the boiler board and the tender board. The boiler board is considerably less expensive than the tender board. One or the other may be having issues, rather than both.

ran for 2 days before engine just stopped on track, completely dead, no lights not motor

These symptoms could be due to a loose wireless drawbar, an unplugged connector a broken wire, or a defective wireless drawbar, all of which are inexpensive fixes. Often, we see this problem simply because the wireless drawer tether will work its way loose if not plugged in securely.

If the pickup rollers are on the engine rather than the tender, a loose wireless drawbar tether will cause the engine to go completely dead - no lights, no sounds and no movement.

There are some really good techs that frequent this board, any of which can accurately diagnose your engine's problems and, if you choose to do so, repair it as well in a reasonably short time frame. I've sent people to both Marty Fitzhenry and George Galyo (GGG) with excellent results.

I suggest that you postpone your decision to scrap your engine's PS3 capability while you have it evaluated by someone competent to do so.

Barry, Thanks for the reply.  I am familiar with the loose drawbar.  When the engine worked I would need to snap it back in every 45 minutes or so because it always works loose.  I have read that some people put small zip ties on it to keep it in place. It's not because of tight/excessive turns, I am running O-36. 

I do not know how they checked the engine.  They are an MTH dealer so I assumed they would know what they are doing.  I did open the tender and was puzzled when I didn't find fuses. You answered that for me, there are none.  Maybe the hobby shop meant capacitors?

Neither the engine nor the tender have that burnt electric smell.  When the engine quit there was no blue smoke or smell.

I like the engine, when working, and would get a second opinion.  It is very frustrating that this engine quits working when it is essentially new. Really between 10-15 hours running on it. It was my only engine until I quickly bought a Williams U33 to get me through Christmas. Can I find Marty and George's contact info somewhere on the website?  Do they own hobby shops. 

Dec 2014 took to local hobby shop who found 3 blown fuses which were replaced but did not fix the issue. They pulled your chain and charged you for it.  A good dealer would warrantee their work. I would go back and ask for your money back, unless they can prove they replaced fuses.  

 Maybe the hobby shop meant capacitors? 99% MTH techs do not know how to replace capacitors.  They put it on a machine, run diagnostics, Then call MTH. I will bet there is a loose wire from the 3r pick ups and most likely loose connectors on the board. There have been a few posts wear new engines had your issues. GGG is in VA and depending where you are at, you might be able to drive to his location. If he cant fix it then its dead.

As for your question about a replacement board. The Williams 6 Amp board is easy to install yourself and are very reliable. I have done a few engines with no issues, way back when I relatively new to O Gauge.

Doug

Jeff,  I will be at the VTC show in Suffolk this Sunday.  As Barry stated, I would not throw in the towel yet.  You can contact me via my e-mail in my profile.  G

Someone is certainly pulling somebody's chain here!  If the boards are really getting killed, you need to address the root cause, probably a pinched wire or other connection to the frame is killing the boards.

Thank you Doug, Gunner and GGG for the replies.  I think I am going to take the shells off and check to see if I can find any obvious pinched or loose wires.  Failing in that I will get in touch with GGG about possibly having him look at the engine. 

I wish Suffolk was a bit closer to me.  It would be a good 4 hour drive.