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Wow Sarah, that is really great. It almost looks like you have real water laying there. Sort of reminds me of a spot close from where I live where there are railroad tracks down away, from a creek that has a weird automobile bridge. It is partially a one lane bridge that has a pullover spot on part of it where you can view the shallow part of the creek. The tracks are higher up on the one side which the road is over then comes down to the creek bridge. What did you use for water anyway? That is what product I mean?

Wow Sarah, that is really great. It almost looks like you have real water laying there. Sort of reminds me of a spot close from where I live where there are railroad tracks down away, from a creek that has a weird automobile bridge. It is partially a one lane bridge that has a pullover spot on part of it where you can view the shallow part of the creek. The tracks are higher up on the one side which the road is over then comes down to the creek bridge. What did you use for water anyway? That is what product I mean?

Thanks Dave, I use a professional resin product made in Germany called Feycopox 581. It's furniture quality causing zero bubbles. Quite pricy bit I pit so many hours into the module that I can't take risks here.

That looks superb. I've used "Magic Water" - another two part epoxy product. It dries very clear/transparent and will take a coloring tint  (I actually use acrylic paint but am not looking for deep color). I think that the only issue with epoxy is that it takes a long time to set properly and will "creep" along edges and into any space in the base material. However I have learned to deal with that although I am not making scenes like yours.

@Hancock52 posted:

That looks superb. I've used "Magic Water" - another two part epoxy product. It dries very clear/transparent and will take a coloring tint  (I actually use acrylic paint but am not looking for deep color). I think that the only issue with epoxy is that it takes a long time to set properly and will "creep" along edges and into any space in the base material. However I have learned to deal with that although I am not making scenes like yours.

Thanks! To seal the containment is actually the biggest issue when working with resin. We do furniture from time to time and we really had bad surprises quite often until much more effort has been taken to seal everything properly.

Thanks for the explanation and the image. This is not a patch on your effort but the same basic issue on a far smaller scale. I once modeled a full Pullman-Standard, streamliner era, diner kitchen (acres of stainless steel) and put in a "sink" visible through one of the windows. The resin was slightly tinted green to resemble dishwater . . .  I had to seal the thing inside and out with a coating of acrylic modeling compound because otherwise the Magic Water seeped through any even slight opening and made a mess of the kitchen floor! As I had not mastered how to create "suds" it was less realistic than I hoped but there is a Vallejo paint that will produce the effect.

8_Kitchen-Overview-1 copy 2

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@Hancock52 posted:

Thanks for the explanation and the image. This is not a patch on your effort but the same basic issue on a far smaller scale. I once modeled a full Pullman-Standard, streamliner era, diner kitchen (acres of stainless steel) and put in a "sink" visible through one of the windows. The resin was slightly tinted green to resemble dishwater . . .  I had to seal the thing inside and out with a coating of acrylic modeling compound because otherwise the Magic Water seeped through any even slight opening and made a mess of the kitchen floor! As I had not mastered how to create "suds" it was less realistic than I hoped but there is a Vallejo paint that will produce the effect.

8_Kitchen-Overview-1 copy 2

Wow! Look at that!!

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