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Wow Sarah, that is really great. It almost looks like you have real water laying there. Sort of reminds me of a spot close from where I live where there are railroad tracks down away, from a creek that has a weird automobile bridge. It is partially a one lane bridge that has a pullover spot on part of it where you can view the shallow part of the creek. The tracks are higher up on the one side which the road is over then comes down to the creek bridge. What did you use for water anyway? That is what product I mean?

Wow Sarah, that is really great. It almost looks like you have real water laying there. Sort of reminds me of a spot close from where I live where there are railroad tracks down away, from a creek that has a weird automobile bridge. It is partially a one lane bridge that has a pullover spot on part of it where you can view the shallow part of the creek. The tracks are higher up on the one side which the road is over then comes down to the creek bridge. What did you use for water anyway? That is what product I mean?

Thanks Dave, I use a professional resin product made in Germany called Feycopox 581. It's furniture quality causing zero bubbles. Quite pricy bit I pit so many hours into the module that I can't take risks here.

That looks superb. I've used "Magic Water" - another two part epoxy product. It dries very clear/transparent and will take a coloring tint  (I actually use acrylic paint but am not looking for deep color). I think that the only issue with epoxy is that it takes a long time to set properly and will "creep" along edges and into any space in the base material. However I have learned to deal with that although I am not making scenes like yours.

@Hancock52 posted:

That looks superb. I've used "Magic Water" - another two part epoxy product. It dries very clear/transparent and will take a coloring tint  (I actually use acrylic paint but am not looking for deep color). I think that the only issue with epoxy is that it takes a long time to set properly and will "creep" along edges and into any space in the base material. However I have learned to deal with that although I am not making scenes like yours.

Thanks! To seal the containment is actually the biggest issue when working with resin. We do furniture from time to time and we really had bad surprises quite often until much more effort has been taken to seal everything properly.

Thanks for the explanation and the image. This is not a patch on your effort but the same basic issue on a far smaller scale. I once modeled a full Pullman-Standard, streamliner era, diner kitchen (acres of stainless steel) and put in a "sink" visible through one of the windows. The resin was slightly tinted green to resemble dishwater . . .  I had to seal the thing inside and out with a coating of acrylic modeling compound because otherwise the Magic Water seeped through any even slight opening and made a mess of the kitchen floor! As I had not mastered how to create "suds" it was less realistic than I hoped but there is a Vallejo paint that will produce the effect.

8_Kitchen-Overview-1 copy 2

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@Hancock52 posted:

Thanks for the explanation and the image. This is not a patch on your effort but the same basic issue on a far smaller scale. I once modeled a full Pullman-Standard, streamliner era, diner kitchen (acres of stainless steel) and put in a "sink" visible through one of the windows. The resin was slightly tinted green to resemble dishwater . . .  I had to seal the thing inside and out with a coating of acrylic modeling compound because otherwise the Magic Water seeped through any even slight opening and made a mess of the kitchen floor! As I had not mastered how to create "suds" it was less realistic than I hoped but there is a Vallejo paint that will produce the effect.

8_Kitchen-Overview-1 copy 2

Wow! Look at that!!

Now that is some building there Sarah. The bolts, are they just plastic glued on or something else entirely? They look great. I figured I'd ask as someone is bound to anyway.

Hi Dave,

I use .060 x .060 styrene strips and cut the old fashioned nuts with "the chopper". Corresponding washers are being punched with the punch and dye tool by RP Toolz. Very handy tool that I expanded with some bigger diameter holes where I simply use a worn drill bit as the punch.

I made bigger nuts and bolts than would found in reality, they are a bit over sized. I think they look better on the model but that's just my personal taste. See pics of the original rivet size in my earlier post. I like the bigger ones better, they make the model more physical in appearance.



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@Sarah posted:

Hi Dave,

I use .060 x .060 styrene strips and cut the old fashioned nuts with "the chopper". Corresponding washers are being punched with the punch and dye tool by RP Toolz. Very handy tool that I expanded with some bigger diameter holes where I simply use a worn drill bit as the punch.

I made bigger nuts and bolts than would found in reality, they are a bit over sized. I think they look better on the model but that's just my personal taste. See pics of the original rivet size in my earlier post. I like the bigger ones better, they make the model more physical in appearance.



IMG_1480IMG_1479IMG_1553

Sarah, that is genius. I like the accents of having them on there, they do look great. Also, remember the golden rule of your railroad(and anything you build at all), it is your railroad, your interpretation of what you like, so it can't be wrong.

I've seen a bunch of posts where other people say to a poster, "why did you do that, they didn't have those?" Replies usually come back with, "well, I know, but it's my railroad, so they do." Main thing, enjoy what you do, that's the ticket. Thanks for the insight. 🐻👍😃

I skipped this post at least 3 times?

I know it would be great.

I just don't like being reminded how far behind I am working on stuff. Seeing the pros do great work can be great. It also gets me upset about the time I need to spend (and money) that I don't have.

I just wasted hours yesterday ripping out a track feed wire that I thought was bad and maybe eaten by some varmit? After doing it I discovered the end connection right at the track had failed! It got moved and started working.

So not to drag this down anymore, this post will self delete in 5,4,3,2,1......

Carry on, great work again!

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

Sarah, great job so far.  Your first layer looks like a clear mountain stream.  I like the whitewater sample.  If it does dry clear you may have to add some color to the tops of the ripples to get the effect you're looking for.  Thatcould all depend on how swiftly your creek is moving and how treacherous your whitewater is.

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