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That looks just like my peacock 10E - what I think green would look like with a bit of blue tint.

Looking through several parts of Greenburg's book, I see several shades of peacock including some more green than blue.                                                       

None of my references mention green for a 10E except for the dark green frame.

That dark green is something else.  I had always thought that my 10E had a black frame, but recently I saw mention of the dark green.. Looking very carefully at mine next to known black, I could see the green.  I have some GG-1's that present the same problem.  They are very dark green, but from several feet away or in poor light they look black

                                                                                                                                         

Have you ever tried our Peacock? Our colors were matched w/ new original Lionel pieces that Lou Shaw from Madison Hardware had in stock, unopened,  Lou was kind enough to lend me the pieces for paint match. We matched the colors, painted a 9 x 11 sheet of gloss paper stock, to use as a color check periodically when we run a new batch of paint. Our paint runs are limited to 1 quart ( 4  1/2 pint cans at a time), so that our stock is always fresh. We do not offer aerosol cans, but the Spray Valve sets are only $10.00 and do a great job.  Harry 

Update:

The 2 original non-geared wheels were in such poor condition that they pulled off the axles without needing any "puller"- type tool. 🙂

The "direction disc" is missing, so I wired it together just so the motor can be tested. It runs "okay", but there is a "chattering" sound I haven't been able to find the source of. I've had it apart numerous times but just can't figure it out. Removed a little bit of brass from the brush tubes, just to make sure there's no chance of them contacting the armature.

Am putting together a parts order for Hennings...👍

Now that I've had a chance to really see how a "Super Motor" is assembled, I have to say that they couldn't be simpler or more user friendly. Good on the designers who dreamt up these things...

Mark in (smoky) Oregon

Parts from Hennings arrived yesterday (already!)👍 😊

Along with the new wheels I ordered a set of brushes and springs; I had already replaced the brushes, but I wanted to see if new springs would help (I figured they couldn't hurt).

Turns out the "chattering" noise was due to (I think) uneven brush pressure: with the new springs this is running much smoother and quieter.

My neighbor (retired millwright) is returning home tomorrow; my plan is to ask him to press those new wheels for me. He has the tools and will do a good job...and I know he will be careful and precise. 🙂

Fun stuff...

Mark in Oregon

Another update...in case there's any interest.

I saw a Youtube video where a guy was restoring a #8; in it he put the wheels onto the axles with a simple "twisting" motion. I tried this and it worked, so it's now track-ready.

Was able to pick up some #12 gauge brass wire from Michaels: it took (3) tries before I did one I thought was good enough. Here's a "before" and "after":

#10 B4

#10 After

(...this is after I cleaned the body as well...)

Hennings tells me it'll be some time before they'll have die-cast headlights available again, so I guess this little project is done for the time being.

Thanks for indulging me...

Mark in Oregon

Another Adobe Sunset

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  • #10 B4
  • #10 After
  • Another Adobe Sunset
Last edited by Strummer

For handrail shaping prewar and postwar both, several pairs of pliers will help.  Go to Western Optical and order a pair of 3 jaw pliers perfect for making neat 90 degree bends without crimping the wire different radii .  A flat and round plier is also useful for adjusting bends and the third is one with 3 nylon curved jaws for shaping wide bends to match boiler and or hood contours.  Other optical suppliers are far more expensive  Hilco and Vigor come to mind.



Ed Samsen

Vita Sine Litris Mors Est (Adelphi Academy Brooklyn, NY)

One of the most useful handrail adjusting tools that I have is a large bench vise.  It has four inch wide jaws and is perfectly square.  Put wire in vise, bend with hands and finish with a hammer and I have a perfext 90 degree bend.

The vise is also good for straightening handrails  I put 4" across the jaws and tighten.  The rotate90 degrees (using existing bend) and tighten jaws again.  Several repetitions give me a straight handrail.

Fortunately the vise is square enough that I can use it to press wheels on axles.

@Ed Samsen posted:

For handrail shaping prewar and postwar both, several pairs of pliers will help.  Go to Western Optical and order a pair of 3 jaw pliers perfect for making neat 90 degree bends without crimping the wire different radii .  A flat and round plier is also useful for adjusting bends and the third is one with 3 nylon curved jaws for shaping wide bends to match boiler and or hood contours.  Other optical suppliers are far more expensive  Hilco and Vigor come to mind.



Ed Samsen

Vita Sine Litris Mors Est (Adelphi Academy Brooklyn, NY)

Ed  - do you have a part number for the 3 jaw plier? I don't see it in their catalog on line.

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