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While I wait for the #10 to arrive, I have naturally been researching the above.

I read a piece on the "Tinplate Times" site where a guy restored a poorly painted 408E: he begins by saying he prefers to try to save the original finish if possible, and he was able to strip off the crappy re-paint and save the original Mohave finish.

I've decided to try that approach with the "10". It seems like the baked on original paint could withstand the stripper; depending on what's used, how long it sits and maybe a little luck. The terrible black (🤬)  paint has to come off anyway, so using a stripper that will do the job quickly I think is crucial.

With that in mind, please share your thoughts and opinions. Thank you.

Mark in Oregon

PS: after that, we can discuss the mechanism. The wheels appear to be okay (intact) so I'm hopeful. 🙂

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@Rob English posted:

Mojave is WEAK in the best circumstance and stains readily. It stains with water. Permanently. Its a waste of time IMHO.... but it is your loco... do as you like!

The "Mohave" I mentioned was the original color of the 408E in the article; I think (judging by the eBay photos) that the #10 I'm getting was originally "Peacock".   Dunno if that's an easier color to "rescue"...

Mark in Oregon

Mark when I have done my tinplate restoration or fantasy paint scheme I use TSP, Trisodium Phosphate, to strip the paint off. Very easy to use and works fast and effectively. I just mix a few tablespoons in hot water in a plastic bin. Let it sit for 15 minutes or so, a light scrubbing with a toothbrush or scotch bright pad will bring you to bare metal.

@Strummer posted:

The "Mohave" I mentioned was the original color of the 408E in the article; I think (judging by the eBay photos) that the #10 I'm getting was originally "Peacock".   Dunno if that's an easier color to "rescue"...

Mark in Oregon

OOPS well Peacock is essentially similar in nature. stains easily especially when the paint is oxidized (dull). comes off easily.

Okay, you'll be sorry you said that! 😄

Another question, this one regarding freight car size. The TCA book says the 112 gondola is part of the "Early Small Series" and is either 7" or 9 1/2" long.

Here is a picture of the 112 I got last week:IMG_20220519_131536172

... it's clearly stamped "112". But here is a picture of its length:

IMG_20220519_131541828

...you can see it's 11 1/4".

So do I have an earlier "12" that's probably been refinished and stamped a later number?

Mark in Oregon

PS: still hoping to find some trucks for this...(hint,hint...). 😁

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The paint Estes & Hennings sold in aerosol form was lacquer. The paint Hennings sells now is an alkyd enamel. Lionel did not bake their train cars etc.,  but ran them thru a dip paint trough on a moving hangar. The paint was enamel.  If an item is over sprayed w/ lacquer, it will bubble up the original enamel paint.  TSP is the home method to remove paint. We use aluminum oxide in a sand blasting cabinet for total restoration.   Harry 

The #10 arrived today, so rest assured I'll be asking a lot of questions.

First impression: this is the first "Super Motor" I've ever seen; it's quite different from the power unit in the #33. The wheels are in really good condition; on the non-geared side have raised lettering: "The Lionel Corporation New York." I guess these are the original wheels(?) After the usual cleaning and lube, it seems to run well, but since I don't know what these are supposed to be like, I'm merely guessing.

The body, although intact and straight, is going to need a complete stripping, including the original "Peacock" paint. How is the safest way to straighten (then re-flatten) all those little tabs?Back when I was into later Post War stuff, I had to take apart a 45N; in doing so, most of those tabs broke. How to avoid that happening this time?

One of the couplers is really bent and is missing a piece, so it'll have to be replaced: how does one go about doing that, since it's kind of riveted in place...

Place stand by for more of the same; thank you.

Mark in Oregon

To save the tabs just lift each a bit at a time. Don’t attempt to move it the full 90 degrees if possible. The metal has some flex so you pull it at an angle to release the tabs. Reassemble the same way and don’t try bending back to the original position. The less angle they are bent the more likely they will not break off.

Pete

Another question: how do you go about accessing the commutator brushes on one of these "Super Motors"?

Online research only shows how easy it is when the wheels are pulled and the frame is disassembled. I don't want to have to go to that extreme; there must be a way... 🤔

Mark in Oregon

PS: I was able to remove one of the brass side panels; so far so good. Funny: I've never had much luck with "Brasso", but it worked great on this...🙂

Last edited by Strummer

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