Restoring a Lionel M-10000 Streamliner 12/27/19- The Motor Runs!

Looks nice!  I would definitely re-think restoring them.  Re-painting them would diminish the value greatly.  I would do the electrical and mechanical work necessary and call it a day.  The paint on the bodies of the cars and loco look better than anything i've seen out there lately.  That set needs 072 track to run properly.  I would be thrilled to have the opportunity to purchase a set as nice as that.

Thanks George. The original track shown is 072. I have to clean it but it looks like it's all there.

As I said re-painting is a long way (probably never), off.  Once the 70-80 years of grime is gone I'm sure they will look better.

Bob

Congratulations on a nice set.  It's a plus for me to know the history of old trains that I acquire.  Hope it gets some tree time.

Fendermain

Great find for you Bob! I look forward to the restoration process. 

Andy

Thanks Fendermain and Andy.

Correct me if I am wrong, but the M-10000 requires O72 curves, does it not ?

Yes it does Dan. Lionel produced 072 track specifically for this set.

Way too nice to restore. Great find

Bob, That set does look great!  I’m sure once you clean it up, refurbish the motor, and lube it up, you will have a great looking set!

fantastic find. Please don't touch those bodies. They look way to good to repaint.

Bob,  I have the same that I acquired after someone, long ago, had very poorly repainted a different color.  Had to strip and repaint the aluminum color.  The decals were something else, and will never be as nice as original stamp lettering.  As others stated, I would not encourage a repaint of the M10000.  The original finish is better than many others I have seen, and the lettering shown is really nice.  Yes, a good, careful, cleaning and mechanical/electrical service would be for the better.  But, to ever repaint and have a loss of original lettering would be too detrimental.  Just my opinion, and congrats on a great looking set, sir!! 

Jesse   TCA  12-68275

So I have obviously struck a nerve. 

Painting is now officially off the table 👍

I agree with all of you anyway. They do look nice the way they are. 

Thanks for all the comments.

More to come as I head down this path.

Bob

Steamer posted:

fantastic find. Please don't touch those bodies. They look way to good to repaint.

I'll second that.  I see no need at all for repainting, but if it were mine, I'd certainly replace the center-rail pickup shoes.

The shoes are on my list. Have to source the parts.

Bob,

 I'm late to your interesting topic. I would agree on what most or all have said, keep the original paint/lettering. I never even saw an M-10000 in person! Looking forward to learning more on this unique set and seeing its comeback. 

Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family. 

Tom 

Thanks Tom. Same to you and yours. 

you have a rare set there, if you look closely under the motor the word gauge is spelled wrong

RSJB18 posted:

The shoes are on my list. Have to source the parts.

I think Jeff Kane aka The Train Tender has the shoes. 

Forest

Super nice set, Bob.  Was wondering, what colors did ja have in mind?  Something like this...?     

can you imagine the pride the artist felt when they finished and stood back and looked over their work of art?

Anyone familiar with this locos? Do they tend to be good runners or because they were an early design, did they overheat, derail, etc.?

Tom 

RSJB18, Bob, great find and until a few weeks ago I had never seen one of those older M10000 sets run, and they do require 072 curves. A good friend of mine, Charles Hearn from Nashville, brought his re-painted and re-wired with TMCC electronics, M10000 over to run on my layout. It’s a fun to run set, colorful, fast and memorable. There are many folks that can re-paint and replace the wiring with the newer electronics, although it’s really your choice. Simply re-wiring and general maintenance is all that’s necessary. Thank you for starting this nice thread, of a great model train from yesteryear. Happy Thanksgiving and of enjoying running your trains on your nice railroad. Enjoy the Holidays.

TedW posted:

Super nice set, Bob.  Was wondering, what colors did ja have in mind?  Something like this...?     

HEE HEE

Bob, LOL, LOL

Gary- sharp eye there. I probably looked at that label a dozen times and never saw that.

Anybody know if this typo was common?

Dave- Notice how its OK to re-paint a classic Road Runner but not a classic toy

Forest- thanks for the info. I will give them a call.

Larry- that's a nice looking set your friend has. As stated previously, I will keep this one original. Just cleaning and re-wiring.

Tom- I would think they ran well. It's a very simple motor and I can't see 072 curves putting much stress on the wheels. There certainly is plenty of space under the shell to dissipate heat.

Hopefully I can get started on the motor this weekend. I want to start cleaning the track too. I'm going to see how a light shot with a fine wire wheel does. I'm not looking to restore it to shiny new, just clean and electrically sound.

Bob

Bob;

You??? O-72??? Be still my heart   

Apples55 posted:

Bob;

You??? O-72??? Be still my heart   

Yes Paul......it's true.

I'm going to see what it feels like not to make a hard left turn and sit back a cruise through the curves instead

besides I gotta do something with that track you sent me

Bob, if you "struck a nerve" with the idea of repainting these, I think it is because these are pre-war pieces that are actually in pretty good shape visually given their age. The grading standards for pre-war pieces are after all, a little more forgiving.

Hey, I do a lot of repainting as you know, but I'm always looking for either beaters or very common items made in larger production runs that will not likely ever increase substantially in value. Early on, back in the hobby, I saw some terrible repaints like the ones above, and some really lousy decal jobs too. Those almost made me reconsider doing repaints myself. But then I realized, Hey, I'm an artist... I can do a good job at this. If I'm not going to do a good job, then I wouldn't do it at all. The bad repaint jobs I saw ended up being an inspiration for me to excel.

Anyways, I don't know how many of these M10000's were originally produced, and even more importantly, how many have survived all these years, and are in the condition as the ones you have are in. Personally, visually I'd leave them be outside of cleaning them up.

But then again, it is a personal decision. I've told the story here of how some years ago at YORK, some guy was giving me grief that ALL Lionel trains are valuable collectibles worth money. Given that reasoning, I offered him a Scout gondola for $500.00 and he replied "that isn't worth more than $5-$10." That didn't sound like a valuable collectible to me. Now that I've repainted a few of them, maybe now, they are valuable collectibles .

Yeah, along with SP type cabooses.

texastrain posted:

Bob,  I have the same that I acquired after someone, long ago, had very poorly repainted a different color.  Had to strip and repaint the aluminum color.  The decals were something else, and will never be as nice as original stamp lettering.  As others stated, I would not encourage a repaint of the M10000.  The original finish is better than many others I have seen, and the lettering shown is really nice.  Yes, a good, careful, cleaning and mechanical/electrical service would be for the better.  But, to ever repaint and have a loss of original lettering would be too detrimental.  Just my opinion, and congrats on a great looking set, sir!! 

Jesse   TCA  12-68275

Restore with rubberstamps for best affect. I have done several sets

RSJB18 posted:

Gary- sharp eye there. I probably looked at that label a dozen times and never saw that.

Anybody know if this typo was common?

Dave- Notice how its OK to re-paint a classic Road Runner but not a classic toy

Forest- thanks for the info. I will give them a call.

Larry- that's a nice looking set your friend has. As stated previously, I will keep this one original. Just cleaning and re-wiring.

Tom- I would think they ran well. It's a very simple motor and I can't see 072 curves putting much stress on the wheels. There certainly is plenty of space under the shell to dissipate heat.

Hopefully I can get started on the motor this weekend. I want to start cleaning the track too. I'm going to see how a light shot with a fine wire wheel does. I'm not looking to restore it to shiny new, just clean and electrically sound.

Bob

 

My understanding that this mis-spelled plate appears most often on the 752, but is out there. Not an especially valuable error but you think that the plate made to produce that had to go through several hands at least and at on point probably detected but decided to run with it due to the cost of just throwing away.

Brianel and Jagrick- thanks for the responses. Part of the fun of this hobby is learning about its history as you go.

Bob

I agree 100%!! the history and how is fascinating, I just wish there were more photos of the inner workings of the Lionel factory from the prewar times of the day to day operations

george posted:

Looks nice!  I would definitely re-think restoring them.  Re-painting them would diminish the value greatly.  I would do the electrical and mechanical work necessary and call it a day.  The paint on the bodies of the cars and loco look better than anything i've seen out there lately.  

One more vote for leaving them as is. I'm no authority on these things, but just based on the pictures I agree with George and all the rest voicing concern about restoration. Cosmetically, they look fantastic considering their age. Painting them would ruin their value, history and esthetics (being that philosophy dealing with the nature and appreciation of art, beauty, and taste). (Wow!)  Much of their beauty can be attributed to their age and authenticity. Gently clean them and they'd be good to go, IMHO. If you want a shiny new-looking set, Lionel and MTH have made those in the last number of years.

Bob,  My restored M10000 has the same misspelled plate on bottom.  from what I have been able to research, the misspelled plate is attributed only to the 1934 production.  There may be information stating otherwise, but all I find say year of 1934 only.  A really great looking set you have there, again, congrats, sir.  And best of a Thanksgiving to you and yours.  IMHO, those of us in the O gauge hobby, with all it's history and intrigue, have much to be thankful for.

Jesse   TCA 

Hoping to find the time to restore the bad older paint job on my Prewar 636W.  It runs really good, just not looking as well as it should.  But, that is one of the great things about our hobby!

Jesse   TCA

One of my favorite little sets!! 3 variations. yellow brown with more red in brown and tops of vestibules painted, yellow brown with browner color and all yellow vestibules and two tone green DSS

A few years ago, I saw a photo of an M10000 that my grandfather had.  I decided to get one.  I grabbed the first one I saw on ebay and it was in rough shape.  Hennings got it running well, but the cosmetics are still wanting.  Saw a nicer one and ended up getting that too.  They are good runners on O72 track.  Also run well on Gargraves track on curves as small as O68.  Has a bit of a problem with Gargraves switches so I installed a jumper from one of the vestibules to the engine.

The ones in brown and yellow like the prototype were more popular, but the aluminum ones can be found.  I like the aluminum ones better.  From the photos, it looks like you have a nice example Bob.  I don’t see any zincpest and the cosmetics are decent enough.

Here’s a few pics of my Granddad’s and one of mine.

Thanks Jesse. 1934? WOW that's a long time ago!

Same to you and yours.

Here is my fantasy restoration.

It's a heavy train but it runs. Just need to take it easy on her.

George

Milwaukee Road!   Great looking consist, George!     Hmmmmmm……..    Perhaps find another beater to fix-up... paint red.... use to pull the remake of the Rail Chief articulated cars?

Great topic post this is!

Jesse   TCA

Came across this thread, and, as a guy who repaints LIONEL trains for a living for over 42 years, if you sent this set to me for a full restoration job, I would definitely try to talk you out of it!  Yes, as most on this thread have stated, and I agree - it's just WAY too nice to strip and repaint. Unusual for Pre-War- especially silver items!

The lettering is still sharp and crisp, and other than a few scratches - which I would live with - the silver is quite beautiful! Most M10000 sets we get in here to restore are downright awful - but your set is a real find!

Glad to hear restoring is off the table. Yes, get it running, and operational - but leave the original paint intact!  My own personal yardstick for "restore or not to restore" is this: - with any new item I add to my own personal collection, I will clean it and put it on my display shelf for a week. If the condition doesn't bother me after that time - it gets left alone!  However, if there are too many scratches and chips for me to "live with" - it gets pulled off the shelf, dunked in the stripping solution and gets a brand new paint job!

Happy Thanksgiving to all,

Len Carparelli

Like everyone above said, clean it, rewire it and have some Fun and enjoy it, Happy Thanks Giving to you and every one

Len, your advice is top notch, sir.  I, and I am certain many others, take note of your opinion.  I have enjoyed your services in the past, have other items I am considering sending your way.  May you have a wonderful Thanksgiving and best of the Christmas Season to you and all yours.

Jesse   TCA  12-68275

Len Carparelli posted:

Came across this thread, and, as a guy who repaints LIONEL trains for a living for over 42 years, if you sent this set to me for a full restoration job, I would definitely try to talk you out of it!  Yes, as most on this thread have stated, and I agree - it's just WAY too nice to strip and repaint. Unusual for Pre-War- especially silver items!

The lettering is still sharp and crisp, and other than a few scratches - which I would live with - the silver is quite beautiful! Most M10000 sets we get in here to restore are downright awful - but your set is a real find!

Glad to hear restoring is off the table. Yes, get it running, and operational - but leave the original paint intact!  My own personal yardstick for "restore or not to restore" is this: - with any new item I add to my own personal collection, I will clean it and put it on my display shelf for a week. If the condition doesn't bother me after that time - it gets left alone!  However, if there are too many scratches and chips for me to "live with" - it gets pulled off the shelf, dunked in the stripping solution and gets a brand new paint job!

Happy Thanksgiving to all,

 

Len Carparelli

Len- I hear you. As more folks have responded its obvious as you said that this is a rare find. Probably been sitting in my friends attic for 40-50 years. As others have said for a set that's 85 years old it is in great shape.

I can only hope I look that good at 85

Love Trains- thanks and same to you and yours.

George S- very nice looking set.

Lehigh74- great now and then photos.

Forest posted:

RSJB18 posted:

The shoes are on my list. Have to source the parts.

I think Jeff Kane aka The Train Tender has the shoes. 

Forest

Contacted Jeff and he has the parts.

Thanks Forest

While the turkey was roasting.....

Dismantled and cleaned the Observation car. Some dish soap and a old toothbrush later....

A lot easier to take one of these apart than a modern loco.

The rivet detailing on the belly of the car is very nice. Heavy too- the piece is solid aluminum

The window film is still flexible. I was afraid they would shatter when I touched them but they cleaned up well.

The jewels were black before washing

Bob,

  It's looking good! 

Tom 

MNCW posted:

Bob,

  It's looking good! 

Tom 

Thanks Tom.

Looking great! It's amazing what thorough cleaning can do.   

JD2035RR posted:

Looking great! It's amazing what thorough cleaning can do.   

 

Sure does.

Thanks JD

they looks great!

Steamer posted:

they looks great!

Thanks Dave.

That really is rather special, isn’t it? 

<>The rivet detailing on the belly of the car is very nice. Heavy too- the piece is solid aluminum<>

Pretty sure it is pot metal/zinc/zamac or whatever it is properly called. Many of them warp like crazy. You are lucky that yours is still straight.

RoyBoy posted:

<>The rivet detailing on the belly of the car is very nice. Heavy too- the piece is solid aluminum<>

Pretty sure it is pot metal/zinc/zamac or whatever it is properly called. Many of them warp like crazy. You are lucky that yours is still straight.

Could be, regardless it's got some weight.

It seems that I have been very lucky to have this set fall into my hands. This kind of stuff usually happens to somebody else......not me.

Rockershovel- thanks

FWIW - I agree that painting this trainset probably isn't a good idea, although I think that all of the UP variations were painted in the then-UP colors of yellow and brown.  As it turns out - as you likely know - there were several versions in the M1000X series.  The version owned by the OP here is indeed based on the original M10000, which was a three car unit train set with shared Jacob's bogies to provide articulation.  The power car - accurately depicted by the model - contained the 600 hp Winton prime mover (spark ignited, distillate fuel), a Railroad Post Office section and a baggage section.  Successive M10001 and M10002 versions also had the "turret"-style front end, but were longer trains and bigger (and diesel) prime movers.  The later M10003 to M10006 versions were different, having an "automobile"-style front end (a couple of  the pictures of tin-plate versions posted earlier in the thread are models of those trainsets).  It was an interesting era, with UP actively engaged in designing and commissioning these trainsets.  Rather than hijack this thread (further), I'll post some pictures of the M1000X on a Real Trains thread that I downloaded from wikimedia (all free of copyright) - along with a link to a detailed description of the M1000X trainsets from Utah Rails.

More history! Love it!

Thanks Rich

Started re-assembling the observation car yesterday.

re-wired the rear truck and cleaned the wheels.

Nice and shiny now

And re-glued the felt bushings for the vestibule. Also still in great shape for their age.

This car is done except for needing a new light bulb. Need to pick them up for the whole set.

Enjoyed my favorite adult beverage too!

Bob

That observation car looks great, Bob!

Coming along nicely. I think you got a great deal on this set. 

Happy to see you only cleaned it up and rewired it, it looks great

When my old time train buddy passed away his family offered this set to me, free. I always loved to watch it run around Jim's layout. I turned them down because it seemed it should stay on the layout. The family is keeping the layout in operation. I did take a six unit City of Portland that I had sold him years ago. I only had the original three unit train but Jim had added to it. Don

RSJB18 posted:

Forest posted:

RSJB18 posted:

The shoes are on my list. Have to source the parts.

I think Jeff Kane aka The Train Tender has the shoes. 

Forest

Contacted Jeff and he has the parts.

Thanks Forest

He's my go to first train parts guy. Very polite and very knowledge-able about he has and what you need. If he doesn't have it then the hunt is on. Glad I could help you.

Thank you. Forest

Hi All- In between doing all the Christmas decorations I did a little more clean up on my UP Streamliner set. Cleaned 80 years of crud off of the wheels on the vestibules. The wiring on these looks OK so I'm going to leave them alone.

Then I started on the motor. This will need a complete rewiring. I pulled the brush plate and cleaned the commutator. It's in great shape, no signs of excessive wear or pitting. Cleaned the E-unit too.
I found a set of brushes for my 2037 steamer that are the same size. 

Have to order some parts from Jeff at The Train Tender today.

Bob

Bob can you reattach the pics as they are not visible. Thanks

Done- I pasted them in, guess they didn't show.

Let there be Light!

I received the bulbs and new pick-ups from Jeff at the Train Tender the other day.

I'm impressed with how well lit the car is with just one bulb at each end.

Cleaned the middle car too

Engine body is next and then I'll tackle the motor.

Bob

RSJB18, Bob,  WOW, your lighting effect is Beautiful, great job, Merry Christmas to you and your family.  I really like your streamliner set. Happy Railroading 

Thanks Larry. Same to you and yours.

Yea- it's starting to look like something.

Bob,

  Nice progress. Looking forward to more updates as it moves along.   Merry Christmas 

Tom 

Been wondering how your project was coming along. It's turning out quite nicely

You are doing a great job with that, Bob!!

Tom, Lew, and Mark,

Thanks for stopping by and looking.

Merry Christmas to all!

Bob, It was worth the visit!!!!

Looks like your project is coming along nicely, Bob. It amazes me how well the set has held up over 70+ years. Can’t wait to see it run.

Thanks Paul- while its not running yet, both cars and the engine have been cleaned and reassembled. The motor is the last piece of the puzzle but I want to do it when I have enough time to go start to finish on the wiring. I don't want to stop half way through and miss something.
All of the track has to be cleaned and I want to see if the original transformer and rheostat still work.

Here's today's progress:

Center car is done and on display lit up. Had to fiddle with the window glazing and brackets for a while to get it back together properly.

The engine has been reassembled as well. Looks much better than before. Lots of grime in the stacks bays.

Before

After- just like the tail light lenses, the head light and dome lenses were black before.

I'm still amazed the plastic for the windows is in such great shape.

Onward and Upward!

Bob

Busy with some last minute shopping yesterday and the kids wanted to bake cookies.....

I did find a few minutes to check the old transformer that came with the set. It still works! The cord is very brittle and will need to be replaced.
The rheostat is neat but it has asbestos wire and a sheet of insulation above the coil so I plan to wrap it up and put it away for now.  Amazing where that stuff was used years ago.

Interesting.  In all the years I've been in this hobby, I have never taken the time to understand those early transformers.  So each contact on the transformer is a step in voltage and the restate is used to make the transition smooth ?

There sure are a lot of taps on the winding Dan. I've never see so many on a small transformer either.

Yes- you have a combination of either constant output which can be varied through the rheostat or stepped voltage in three ranges.

I'd love to open it up and see what makes it tick but I have a feeling that if I do all of the wiring will turn to dust in my hands. Think how well you would move if you were in the same position for 80 years. Add in the heat and its a sure recipe for disaster. 

Here's a better view of the top.

Bob

RSJB18 posted:

There sure are a lot of taps on the winding Dan. I've never see so many on a small transformer either.

Yes- you have a combination of either constant output which can be varied through the rheostat or stepped voltage in three ranges.

I'd love to open it up and see what makes it tick but I have a feeling that if I do all of the wiring will turn to dust in my hands. Think how well you would move if you were in the same position for 80 years. Add in the heat and its a sure recipe for disaster. 

Here's a better view of the top.

Bob

Aren't the casings for these transformers spot welded closed ?

No looks like folded tabs on the top  

I would like to add a word of warning when dealing with old transformers:

The 'newest' post-war transformer is now at least 54 years old. It is an extremely  dangerous practice to operate ANY older transformer WITHOUT replacing the 110V AC power cord.  This is not only a fire hazard, but the risk of potentially fatal electric shock with an old, frayed or brittle cord is drastically increased and not something to be easily dismissed.

If you don't have the necessary skills to replace the cord, have a pro do it. But don't ever operate an old transformer with an original cord even if the cord looks 'okay'.

Len Carparelli

Dan Padova posted:

RSJB18 posted:

There sure are a lot of taps on the winding Dan. I've never see so many on a small transformer either.

Yes- you have a combination of either constant output which can be varied through the rheostat or stepped voltage in three ranges.

I'd love to open it up and see what makes it tick but I have a feeling that if I do all of the wiring will turn to dust in my hands. Think how well you would move if you were in the same position for 80 years. Add in the heat and its a sure recipe for disaster. 

Here's a better view of the top.

Bob

Aren't the casings for these transformers spot welded closed ?

They are not welded and the top can be easily removed after unbending those four tabs that show in the photo.  I have a Type T with the same kind of case in front of me right now.  The solder connections for the line cord are easily accessible.  The secondary wiring is fabric, not rubber, insulated and in good condition.  The line cord needs replacement because the rubber insulation usually is deteriorated after 80-90 years.  Several other such transformers that I've opened were about the same.

I've worked with 90-100 year old locomotives and seen the same wiring results.  Fabric insulation is usually still good, rubber just flakes off.

Malcolm Laughlin

The 'newest' post-war transformer is now at least 54 years old. It is an extremely  dangerous practice to operate ANY older transformer WITHOUT replacing the 110V AC power cord.  This is not only a fire hazard, but the risk of potentially fatal electric shock with an old, frayed or brittle cord is drastically increased and not something to be easily dismissed.

The secondary wiring is fabric, not rubber, insulated and in good condition. 

Thanks for the replies and advice Len and Malcolm. I'm a licensed master electrician so I know a thing or two about messing with old electrical equipment . Nice to know the internals are cloth insulated.

When I moved the cord I could hear and feel it cracking. It got one last shot of juice through it. Won't see current again.

Bob

Dan Padova posted:

Interesting.  In all the years I've been in this hobby, I have never taken the time to understand those early transformers.  So each contact on the transformer is a step in voltage and the restate is used to make the transition smooth ?

Those transfomers, first sold in 1914, were not developed for use with locomotives with automatic reversing.  Lionel first showed automatic reverse units in its catalog in 1927.  Also in that year, Lionel introduced the No. 81 "controlling rheostat",   It was replaced by the #95 in 1934.  The #95 had a reverse control button instead of the on-off switch.

Before there was automatic reversing, the brief current interruption from moving the contact lever didn't matter.  After that, an external rheostat was needed for continuous current with speed control.

By experimentation, I've learned how to best use one of those transformers with the rheostat.  With that Type B, I would begin with the B-X range.  See what voltage is needed to run your locomotive at the highest speed that you want to see and leave it set for that voltage.  Then use the rheostat to reduce the speed.  It would be a most unusual locomotive that wouldn't stop before you moved the controller so the full resistance of the coil is in series with the motor.  If you can't get a high enough speed with B-X, then go to A-X.  The maximim of 12 volts for C-X won't move any prewar locomotive that I have.

Interesting side note from the 1936 catalog - the 1029 included with Lionel Jr. sets is referred to as a "Speed Control Transfomer".  The older style is called "Multi-volt transformer."

RSJB18 posted:

Busy with some last minute shopping yesterday and the kids wanted to bake cookies.....

I did find a few minutes to check the old transformer that came with the set. It still works! The cord is very brittle and will need to be replaced.
The rheostat is neat but it has asbestos wire and a sheet of insulation above the coil so I plan to wrap it up and put it away for now.  Amazing where that stuff was used years ago.

Those rheostats were made 30 to 50 years before it was suspected that asbestos might be a health hazard and even today it is not harmful unless fibers are inhaled in large quantity of for a long time.  The hardened material in those rheostats is not a problem.  The contact wiper that moves across the metal coil does not come in contact with the insulation.

mlaughlinnyc posted:

RSJB18 posted:

Busy with some last minute shopping yesterday and the kids wanted to bake cookies.....

I did find a few minutes to check the old transformer that came with the set. It still works! The cord is very brittle and will need to be replaced.
The rheostat is neat but it has asbestos wire and a sheet of insulation above the coil so I plan to wrap it up and put it away for now.  Amazing where that stuff was used years ago.

Those rheostats were made 30 to 50 years before it was suspected that asbestos might be a health hazard and even today it is not harmful unless fibers are inhaled in large quantity of for a long time.  The hardened material in those rheostats is not a problem.  The contact wiper that moves across the metal coil does not come in contact with the insulation.

 

Precisely.  The word asbestos creates hysteria needlessly.  

Guys- I run the facilities department for a mid-sized University and have been handling abatement projects for many years. True- the panic level is still there and the health risk of occasional contact  is low. Still not worth the risk IMHO.

Now......mention MOLD today and you will really see panic....

Merry Christmas to all!

Tackled the motor wiring yesterday. Some was still in good shape so I left it in place. The power wire coming from the pick-up was the worst. Looks like the prior owner had issues and used tape to re-insulate it. The stuff was petrified and crumbled off in pieces.

I was able to slide some new insulation over the wire....good as new now. The lamp socket was replaced with new wire. The main coil wire was in bad shape too and received new insulation. The e-unit wires are in good shape.

Tested the e-unit, still a little sticky but its OK for now.

Finally - I put the armature and brush plate back together. The brushes I thought would fit are too long so I have to order the proper ones.

The motor still needs some tweaking to get it to run but I'm getting closer.

It's Alive!

A few days of sitting seems to have done the trick for the motor. I took another stab at getting it running today. I guess the gears were a bit out of sync and the grease had a chance to soak in. Still need to get new brushes but the old ones are working fine for now. Obviously this is the only time this motor will run on 027 curves

Cleaning up the track and a test run are next.

Bob

Congratulations Dr. Frankenstein!

Mark Boyce posted:

Congratulations Dr. Frankenstein!

Mark Boyce posted:

Congratulations Dr. Frankenstein!

That’s Fronkensteen... 

and the transformer looks like something out of the good doctor’s laboratory!!!

Sincerely;

 Abby Normal

Apples55 posted:

Mark Boyce posted:

Congratulations Dr. Frankenstein!

That’s Fronkensteen... 

and the transformer looks like something out of the good doctor’s laboratory!!!

Sincerely;

 Abby Normal

Abby,

Right you are about that transformer!  

Watch those sharp curves, Chief!   NO magne-traction on that little bugger...

Len Carparelli posted:

Watch those sharp curves, Chief!   NO magne-traction on that little bugger...

😁 👍