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Tom,

I guess we posted at the same time.

The wires inside didn't look too bad and some have certainly been replaced. The leads with the plugs though are showing age bad. I'd like to at least replace those and the grommets at least. I've already considered just living without the fancy couplers.

Runs well enough otherwise. The e unit is sluggish but I've noticed that with my 763 also. I guess when they mostly sit on a shelf they don't get enough exercise 🤣

I sent my switcher off for repair. It had some issues inside the rear truck causing issues for the coupler as I suspected. The train shop I got it from offered to fix it under warranty so I let them handle it. Luckily I did as the sliding shoe needed replacement among the issues and I am not sure where I could have sourced one.

I have not had any time to mess with it but when I do I will record it.

David Johnston thank you so much for all your detailed information .Such a wealth of knowledge.I have been wanting to buy one of these switchers for a while and nowI thinks it's time to seriously hunt for one.I do have one question.When you have all the screw information what does the "ms" at the end of the screw description stand for.I understand all the other info in the description just not the "ms" .

John K

John,

  MS stands for Military Standard.

  MS- Military standard started around the 1950s and for the most part replaced the AN hardware series. However, a few of the AN standards have stayed around. The MS series was canceled in 1994 by the Secretary of Defense, at the request of contractors in order to save money.

 

Tom

Last edited by PRR8976

John,

  I encourage you to buy one of the 227-series switchers. If you get one, please post pictures here.

  I've been operating and collecting them for over 25-30 years now and they are lots of fun. However, if you can find one that actually is complete and runs, your life will be a little easier.

  This past year, for the first time, I've had problems getting parts for them including places that I have relied on for years. Hoping that will improve once COVID is over--but not sure.

  I picked up this #228 recently:

Lionel 228 bought from Trainworld March 2021 no5

Before anyone asks, yes, I will be changing the front pilot and dummy coupler to go back to the original prewar pilot & coupler.

Tom

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  • Lionel 228 bought from Trainworld March 2021 no5

John,

  I actually have one that I bought several years ago. Someone else made such a conversion and it ran sporadically. I think my path to these switchers may be similar to yours. I also had a #1615 then a #1656. (Those clouds were hand painted by me and I should have been a professional cloud painter!)

Here is a #1656 on a prior layout:

Layout-YardGoat-1-17-04%20[2%29

Tom

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Last edited by PRR8976

I think the 227 family of engines is the easiest Lionel locomotives to work on. They are put together with screws. No bent tabs, no tubular rivets. And the OO e unit is much easier to work on than the 259E eunit. The only exception is the front coupler. Replacing the super flex wire to the coil can be difficult. The downside to working on these locos is that parts are getting hard to find. Yes,  MS in a fastener description indicating Machine Screw.  The other common type seen on Lionel trains is ST, self tapping.

I think the 227 family of engines is the easiest Lionel locomotives to work on. They are put together with screws. The downside to working on these locos is that parts are getting hard to find...

As David wisely stated, parts are indeed getting hard to find including what used to be easy to find parts like headlights...I tried the usual, great parts providers and could not find one, so I posted another topic: https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...6#155152949933384406 and my new friend AlanRail came to the rescue.

Here are 2 photos, showing the newly installed headlight by the 3-D artist, AlanRail

IMG_1770IMG_1771

Before anyone mentions it, yes, I do have the parts to restore the original prewar couplers and pilot (I may have mentioned that before, earlier)...then will be happening soon.

Thanks again to AlanRail

Tom

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David had asked for a picture with the headlight on.

Here are some new pictures.

First is my last original headlight lens in my inventory (on the left) vs. the 3-D printed one from AlanRail (on the right). The 3-D printed one appears frosted instead of clear, but with the headlight on, I don't see a difference!

IMG_1773

This headlight search was done for my newly purchased prewar #228, bought from TrainWorld in Brooklyn in March. I never got around to unpacking it until yesterday and never was able to run it until today, life (work, outdoor yard work, etc.) just kept getting in the way. I knew from TrainWorld's original pictures that the headlight lens was missing.

IMG_1781

After test fitting the headlight yesterday I thought for sure it would never pop out but it did today. So, today a little Duco cement carefully placed inside the headlight housing and 2-3 gentle whacks with a small hammer on the lens got it positioned perfectly (I used an old t-shirt over the lens to protect it). By the way, thank you to TrainWorld for such a great running locomotive...this is the smoothest running of all of my prewar switchers.

Some pictures from the first running on Saturday, May 1, 2021 at "Tom's Home for Old Prewar Switchers" as it should be known!

IMG_1775

IMG_1776

...and my favorite of the bunch, a panning shot with the rods in a socially acceptable angle of "Rods down:"

IMG_1780

Tom

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Picked up another Lionel prewar #228 with the 2228B tender...just came in the mail today. Have not gone to run it yet, maybe this weekend. Looked good except for the broken front marker lights (which I have fixed several times before on other PRR switchers), the tender lettering, slightly bent railings and the tender wiring:

PRR 228 July 2021 no2

PRR 228 July 2021 no1

PRR 228 July 2021 no3

These are good therapy for a stressful job--but I guess that could be true for any similar Lionel locomotive.

I got this Snapple "Real Fact" at work also today--maybe a good omen! It's sort of rare considering all the other Snapple facts under the lids...I will probably opt to still run this locomotive using a conventional Lionel transformer!

PRR New Snapple Cap Electric Trains

Tom

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  • PRR 228 July 2021 no2
  • PRR 228 July 2021 no3
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  • PRR New Snapple Cap Electric Trains
Last edited by PRR8976
@PRR8976 posted:

Picked up another Lionel prewar #228 with the 2228B tender...just came in the mail today. Have not gone to run it yet, maybe this weekend. Looked good except for the broken front marker lights (which I have fixed several times before on other PRR switchers), the tender lettering, slightly bent railings and the tender wiring:

PRR 228 July 2021 no2



I love the headlight on a 228! Looks good!!

George

I had a question asked about repairing a broken marker light on a 228.  The answer is a little complicated because there are at least three different replacement marker lights out there. The marker lights are made of brass. I assume they are a screw machine product. If possible, I use a file to get a flat smooth surface on the broken part. Then I center punch trying my best to hit the center of the part. Then I drill the broken part out. The zinc appears to have gotten quite hard, so in my experience I have not had trouble with the drill walking into the zinc. The old brass post cuts like soft butter.  

The size of the drill depends on the replacement marker light I am going to use. I have run across four distinct marker lights, all requiring a different drill size. I do not want a tight fit, as the marker lights on the boiler have to be removed to change the boiler hand rails.  The first marker light I identify as early prewar.  It is 0.076” diameter over the shaft and 0.078” over the serrations.  To install one of these I would use a #48 drill, 0.076” diameter. The second marker light I identify as late prewar. It is 0.076” diameter over the shaft and 0.086” over the serrations. To install one of these I would use a #45 drill, 0.082” in diameter.  The third marker light I believe is made for the 1989 remake.  It is the part most commonly available. It is 0.086” diameter over the shaft and 0.088” over the serrations.  To install one of these I would use a #44 drill, 0.086 in diameter.  On this application it might be best to drill out the broken post with the #48 drill first, then open up the zinc die casting with the #44 drill as a secondary operation.   The forth marker light is probably from the repro market and is of such poor quality that I would not install one. On any of these, if it is felt that the marker light is going in too tight, file the serrations to a smaller diameter, maybe putting a little taper on them. If the marker light is loose in the hole I use a little Walter’s Goo. This will hold the marker light in, but not so tight that it cannot be removed if necessary.  When installing the 1989 marker light on a prewar loco, even if drilling out a broken stub is not required, the shaft is so large that the hole needs to be drilled out to get the new part in.  

In a technical note regarding the prototype B6 switcher, I do not know if these are marker lights or classification lights. Maybe class lights on the loco and markers on the tender?  It would be interesting to know for sure.

David,

  Thanks again for the thoroughness of your post on the various drill bits.

  In return for that, I have this from my friend Mac who says about your question of class vs. marker lights for the PRR B6 switcher classes:

Classification lights were boiler mounted ,as it denoted class of train and whether it had the right of way.  As switchers didn’t get priority they normally had marker lights only.  Originally mounted only on the pilot or tender these normally showed as red as it was seldom doing more than switching various industries or handling locals.  They were Pyle national markers.  However, during the 40’s pilot mounted markers were often replaced with boiler mounts  which were smaller almost can like mounted on a bracket above the handrails smoke box side below the stack and generator.  ---Mac

Tom

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