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I am able to remove  the field on the 200 series motors this "field" had one end broken off and had to be unwound .

I was able to unwind it and rewind it the best I could

Does anyone know IF the windings have to be perfect or  possibly it does not matter.

If it does ...... I'll  have to put a couple  of train videos on and slowly rewind..(lol)

Thanks  for the info...  here's a picture of it after rewound now as mentioned before I drill  and us a  4/40   tap and screw the fields back on easily  ...daniel









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Last edited by DanssuperO
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Actually it does need to be nearly perfect. Each wind needs to be lined up tightly in a row before wrapping the next layer. You also need to have about the same number of windings.
The first time I tried rewinding a motor field, it looked similar to the photo above and the motor barely ran. Armature and field rewinding requires a great deal of patience and attention to detail.

Interesting thread. I too have encountered motor fields (all 200 series) that needed rewinding, but always avoided doing so because of the re-staking of the field studs. It has been my experience that the alignment of the field and armature assemblies is quite critical. Getting it wrong usually means very poor running, if not outright rubbing of the armature on the field. I sincerely hope you have success in this, and would appreciate at least a final follow up message letting us know the outcome - thanks!

George

BTW, while you have it apart, check that bottom armature bearing for excessive play - because of the physical arrangement of the armature, bearing and worm, a 0.1mm bit of play in that bearing could turn into a 0.2mm bit of play between the worm and worm gear.

quote:   Interesting thread. I too have encountered motor fields (all 200 series) that needed rewinding, but always avoided doing so because of the re-staking of the field studs.



  As mention I have a standing drill press and able to use my machinist vise and  able to drill in the center after I remove the field form the chassis, after I drill down @ 3/16 to 1/4  I am able to use a 4/40 tap  then easily   use two 4/40 screws to bolt back on..

I found some Alco motors early ones with the bearing in the lower chassis (black rectangular   with small bearing  ) have a extra leaf in the field and armature which when you use the nylon bearing so it does not touch the bottom plate.. which I found to be a stronger  than the ones with less leafs...



"But"  ... as mentioned  I found using a F3  2028-100 and shaving and doing the same as above to be far soupier in the way it runs slow or fast... ..daniel

Im going to try rewind taking my time to see how well I can make it look  this week end..

Last edited by DanssuperO

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