Ross switch won't activate

One of my Ross switches works only intermittently. Like only once in a while. I have checked all the wiring and even changed the z1000 machine. Everything checks out. My thought is that it needs some lubrication. In an older post someone recommended Graphite. I was thinking spray silicone. Any thoughts? 

Original Post

I removed screws on all track leading up to the switch to free it up. Nothing. The switch itself was not screwed down. The baffling part about this is that the red and green lights come on when I push the buttons on the controller. But nothing happens with the switch. And if I move the switch manually, it seems free to move. All my other Ross switches work great.

Dz 1000 switches have a built in limit switch that disconnects power after the throw.  Be sure the switch has completely thrown, move the small peg handle, completely left or right.   The three wires also have been know to break off/become disconnected. 

Dark green, lower part of the switch, this picture. 

I agree with Tom, I'm a locksmith (don't ask why, had to get away from my Father In Law when my wife decided to move him in with us) and we use a spray lubricant called "Super Lube Sri-Film" to lube the lock cylinders.  This stuff is great, it has butane as the carrier and PTFE as the lubricant.  This stuff is slick as a whistle and really makes the cylinders turn very smoothly, I also use it on many other items.  Can be used on electronics, anything that slides or glides and a ton more uses.  It does leave a white residue after the butane gases off (very quickly too), this is the powered teflon , it can be cleaned up with a Q-tip so as not to be unsightly but this stuff works really well.  I agree with Tom McGriel about lubing.  You can look this stuff up at www.super-lube.com and possibly find a dealer in your area.  This doesn't leave an oily film like WD-40 does after it dries off.  Don't get me wrong here, I like WD-40, it is great stuff but here in the Arm-pit of Texas it causes problems by attracting dust and stuff which gums up the works on a lot of stuff but it is still a good lubricant too.

Just a thought, if you can find it, you might give it a try, it comes with a straw for better placement of the dry-film, give it a try, you may find many more uses for it around the house.

Hope this helps,

JEM

sptrainnut

TCA 12-67009

 

I don't think it's wires, since I have already changed the switch machine. Mike, I checked out the switch to make sure that it is thrown all the way. Now it fails to operate all the time. If I switch it manually, the controller does operate it once to bring it back to curved position. I think I'll remove the switch and try it on my work bench.

Just a thought after reading this. If you changed out the switch motor and it still did the same thing could the wires leading to the switch be getting sporadic current or maybe the the switch controller has a problem.....Paul

OK. I've finally figured out what the problem is. However, now I can't solve it. Mike, you were correct. The "peg handle" you mentioned doesn't go far enough. The switch machine works fine, but the switch does not permit the peg handle to go far enough. It looks as though the switch is too short a throw distance for the switch machine. So the wire linkage piece doesn't have far enough to travel before the switch is moved all the way. Does this make sense. Now how do I fix it?

Happened to me, too.

Solution: I was running the machines at too low a voltage. 

Bumped up the voltage a couple notches (still within Z-Stuff recommended specs) and all was better.

Per a recommendation from others encountering partial/incomplete throw.

FWIW, of course.

KD

Run the switch machines at 14 VAC.  10 volts is too low.  Also disconnect the switch machine from the switch and remove the spring connecting the machine to the switch throw.  Now try the switch.  Does it work?  If so, something is either binding the operation, or the throw is too short on the switch.

bruce

Thanks for all your suggestions. I tried bumping up the voltage. No better. I spoke with RCS. He said to send it back and they would replace it. Thought it was probably a faulty contact on the slide bar. I've put in too much time on this switch already and have given up. I'll send it in.

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