Ross Switches, I have learned my lesson.

Bruce

I will be disposing of my Ross switches soon.    I have curved LH, RH, motors etc.    If you need some, drop me an email and I can send a list tomorrow---

I agree that they are well made and work better than gargraves (mine are hitting ebay soon).

Cheers!

Bruce,

Do the GG switches have a solid plastic roadbed?  If so, do you think that's the reason for the increased noise?

I've only used RCS switches in the past, but I was thinking of looking at others for my yard expansion.  A Wye, a 072/054 curve, and (7) 072 switches are going to be expensive even if they are worth it.

At this point I've 99% convinced myself that RCS is still the way to go, even if it hurts

 Yes the GG switches are plastic roadbed. I'm sure that is a big part of the noise.

 I'm in the same boat you are. I'll probably save the GG switches for the yard as I

 already have them.  Anything on the main line will be Ross...

Bruce,

Is it possible to Dremel the extra plastic from between the ties, might help reduce the noise?

My layout is all Ross switches and Gargraves track.  Not a problem.  I have convinced several in the club to switch to Ross switches for their next layout.  With a round robin type club you get many types of engines running on your layout.  I have gotten compliments on how well everything ran.  Ross are by far the most reliable switches!

Just my 2 cents.

Dan

I believe the wheels bang around more in the frog of Gargraves and thats why there noiser.

 the frog is twice the size and is to high in my opinion. You are right, a lot of

 engines bounce on the way through. My K-line box cab did not work well with

the gargraves switches. It works great with the Ross.....

Probably, but with that much plastic removed it would probably ruin the

integrity of the switch itself...

I know a lot of your club members Dan. I belong to the Glancy group. You guy's are

the high end group in the area... I would expect nothing less than Ross and Legacy

Though I just bought some Atlas track and like it a lot better than the gargraves..

Let the track battle begin !!!

Some people have used Atlas track with Ross stitches very successfully.  With proper ballasting you cant hardly tell.  I knew you were in the area.  You should join us for one of our meets.

Good luck.

Dan

I like the looks of the Atlas track the best, but man-o-man is it expensive.  I needed a length of flex track and my LHS only had the Atlas flex, talk about sticker shock , sure is purty though.

From what everyone says solid track is less noisy than the tubular stuff.

My first switch purchase was RCS, after reading what everyone said about their quality and performance, see no reason to "switch" now

I'm considering Ross Tinplate switches to use on my layout. Does anyone happen to know the maximum depth for mounting the Z-2500 switch machine underneath the table top?

I have to be able to mount 2 1/2 inches below the track, 2 layers of 1/4" plywood surrounding 2" layer of foam.

Thanks

Bruce

There's an under-table mounting kit for the Z-stuff turnout motors. I don't know if it will work with a 2500, but it basically allows you to mount a Z-stuff motor in the same manner as a tortoise with a vertical spring wire.

the gargraves switch is an"economy hirail switch" with rails stapled to a hollow plastic base. i dont know how you could compare this to a ross or atlas switch. they are better for operations than the lionel 022 072 that istarted out with. -jim

Ross-  Great Switches Great People.

I have all MTH RealTrax switches. They have worked very well for me.

I will be adding a larger radius entirely new section to my layout. I plan to use Ross switches for the new area. I hear so many good things here about them. Again the forum has made my decision easy on what and what not to use. 

Jeff, You will be amazed at the difference.

I also have both now. I'm going to Scaletrax and Ross switches. The track gets roadbed, the switches don't, it lines up OK with minor shimming.