Roundhouse Recommendatios availability

Korber Models, via Mr. Muffin's Trains.  Korber 304 kit is a three stall house, 304A is a one stall addition.  Stall additions are interior, can not be easily added later.  There is also a 304B kit that extends the length of a stall.   Korber kits are designed for a 30" to 32" turntable.  Click on the underlined phrases to link additional information.   Roof pictured is custom built.

Edit/Add:  11/28/2020 3:00PM.    Space required.   House module 4' X  4'.   TT module  4' X 4'.  Transition module 6' X 5'  A turntable and house can be a small layout. 

I think we need a bit more info.

What turntable are you using?  Some turntables have their stops set at a specific angle, while others can be set at any angle.

What is the distance from the center of the turntable to the end of your whisker tracks?  While not a rule, setting the angle between tracks wider means you can bring the roundhouse closer to the turntable, narrower the roundhouse will be farther away.

I believe all roundhouses available are set at a specific angle.  AtlasO's is set at 15 degrees.  I believe Korber's are set for 12 degrees.  Not sure about other makes.

If you don't have a lot of room, using AtlasO's with a turntable set at 15 degrees saves space (distance from turntable) but you get fewer tracks for the width you may have.  Korber's needs more space but you get more tracks for the width.

I hope I said that right and it helps narrow your choices.

Just for fun, I chose Korber because it offered add on storage, also extended storage for longer steamers. See Mr. Muffins for Korber brand. And CAPPilot, Ron has a great Question, Set stops would make a huge difference in your choices. We actually used a great PTC 3 indexing System with 99 stops, head and tail end of the turntable bridge. If, 22 years ago MILLHOUSE Turntables were available, that’s the one I would use, also Ross makes a great turntable. So, if you have the room, go the 34 in one, mine is a customized Bowser turntable and is ok, nothing great. Good luck in your quest.   Happy Railroading Everyone

@CAPPilot posted:

I think we need a bit more info.

What turntable are you using?  Some turntables have their stops set at a specific angle, while others can be set at any angle.

What is the distance from the center of the turntable to the end of your whisker tracks?  While not a rule, setting the angle between tracks wider means you can bring the roundhouse closer to the turntable, narrower the roundhouse will be farther away.

I believe all roundhouses available are set at a specific angle.  AtlasO's is set at 15 degrees.  I believe Korber's are set for 12 degrees.  Not sure about other makes.

If you don't have a lot of room, using AtlasO's with a turntable set at 15 degrees saves space (distance from turntable) but you get fewer tracks for the width you may have.  Korber's needs more space but you get more tracks for the width.

I hope I said that right and it helps narrow your choices.

Ok is this the chicken or egg issue. I say that as I am also checking out turntables from millhouse studios and ross. Both turntables can have different angles I believe, and 27" Ross or 30" Millhouse are the ones I am looking into so far.

hope that helps

Thanks

John

@leapinlarry posted:

Just for fun, I chose Korber because it offered add on storage, also extended storage for longer steamers. See Mr. Muffins for Korber brand. And CAPPilot, Ron has a great Question, Set stops would make a huge difference in your choices. We actually used a great PTC 3 indexing System with 99 stops, head and tail end of the turntable bridge. If, 22 years ago MILLHOUSE Turntables were available, that’s the one I would use, also Ross makes a great turntable. So, if you have the room, go the 34 in one, mine is a customized Bowser turntable and is ok, nothing great. Good luck in your quest.   Happy Railroading Everyone

Ok will say your roundhouse and layout look great!

Thanks for the info

I don’t own one. Was already committed to one before I saw one at York. By far the best I’ve seen is the one from Altoona Model Works. The milled base for the floor for the track to reside to the overall quality of the kit. You have a few options to chose from. Plenty of templates on their site to see what will work as far as space and turntables. Check out posts from Norm Charbonneau or his you tube page. His is by far the best done one I’ve seen.

You asked for recommendations.

At the risk of being tarred and feathered and thrown on the next stage leaving town, my comment on round houses is that, due to the real estate required, I do not use them.

As previously mentioned, my layout is five branch lines so for utilitarian purposes I needed a turntable at the end of each line.  However I just could not bring myself to crowding the area with five round houses.

@CAPPilot posted:

I think we need a bit more info.

What turntable are you using?  Some turntables have their stops set at a specific angle, while others can be set at any angle.

What is the distance from the center of the turntable to the end of your whisker tracks?  While not a rule, setting the angle between tracks wider means you can bring the roundhouse closer to the turntable, narrower the roundhouse will be farther away.

I believe all roundhouses available are set at a specific angle.  AtlasO's is set at 15 degrees.  I believe Korber's are set for 12 degrees.  Not sure about other makes.

If you don't have a lot of room, using AtlasO's with a turntable set at 15 degrees saves space (distance from turntable) but you get fewer tracks for the width you may have.  Korber's needs more space but you get more tracks for the width.

I hope I said that right and it helps narrow your choices.

Ron - great explanation. I was just going to ask about the track separation to match up the turntable against the roundhouse.

Thanks!

Mine is a Korber kit as well as Larry’s ....it is a pretty good undertaking to build one .....hard to believe a roundhouse fits in a shirt box, but once you’re through the frame work, it moves along nicely.....I still need to add the exhaust stacks, that’s coming up during my Christmas break.....Larry’s looks better than mine, but I’m pleased with how mine turned out....I put the LED’s on lamp shades as suggested by the instructions.....that was a job....but I’m glad I did it....really brought it to life!...I’d like to see the Altoona roundhouse, I heard it’s nice too....my buddy Chris I think has either pulled the trigger, or is going to pull the trigger on one....

Pat

A smaller TT and the Korber 304 can be adapted, the key is the distance between the edge of the TT and house is different.  The whisker tracks are off center, which becomes a problem the more bays used.  Track to the left is not centered in the bay.  Click on the underlined phrase to link.  Korber has different templates/TT and house layouts post on their website.

Link to house/TT templates   There is other information available on the site.

@Dave_C posted:

I don’t own one. Was already committed to one before I saw one at York. By far the best I’ve seen is the one from Altoona Model Works. The milled base for the floor for the track to reside to the overall quality of the kit. You have a few options to chose from. Plenty of templates on their site to see what will work as far as space and turntables. Check out posts from Norm Charbonneau or his you tube page. His is by far the best done one I’ve seen.

As Dave noted the fabrication of a floor/interior track layout, for a Korber kit, is a monumental project. IMO.   It takes awhile to get to this point.

Interior support wood is another project.

Additional wood, beyond the kit, is needed for some of this interior detail.

Windows and doors with new kits are much better that 20 years ago.

@Tom Tee posted:

You asked for recommendations.

At the risk of being tarred and feathered and thrown on the next stage leaving town, my comment on round houses is that, due to the real estate required, I do not use them.

As previously mentioned, my layout is five branch lines so for utilitarian purposes I needed a turntable at the end of each line.  However I just could not bring myself to crowding the area with five round houses.

No tar and feathers for sure! Space for one roundhouse is huge, let alone five!

@Mike CT posted:

As Dave noted the fabrication of a floor/interior track layout, for a Korber kit, is a monumental project. IMO.   It takes awhile to get to this point.

Great Job so far! Nice setup!

@Mike CT posted:

A smaller TT and the Korber 304 can be adapted, the key is the distance between the edge of the TT and house is different.  The whisker tracks are off center, which becomes a problem the more bays used.  Track to the left is not centered in the bay.  Click on the underlined phrase to link.  Korber has different templates/TT and house layouts post on their website.

Link to house/TT templates   There is other information available on the site.

Thanks this helps to get a better understanding of all the parameters involved!

I had Korber email me the templates for their kit had them printed as they need to be print on 11x17 paper and then laid out a six stall round house and worked from there I have a 34 inch Millhouse Studios Turntable. Once you set the templates in place you can adjust from there I also made a template for the turntable and using both paper templates I was able  to determine where and how I wanted all to fit.

@harmonyards posted:

Mine is a Korber kit as well as Larry’s ....it is a pretty good undertaking to build one .....hard to believe a roundhouse fits in a shirt box, but once you’re through the frame work, it moves along nicely.....I still need to add the exhaust stacks, that’s coming up during my Christmas break.....Larry’s looks better than mine, but I’m pleased with how mine turned out....I put the LED’s on lamp shades as suggested by the instructions.....that was a job....but I’m glad I did it....really brought it to life!...I’d like to see the Altoona roundhouse, I heard it’s nice too....my buddy Chris I think has either pulled the trigger, or is going to pull the trigger on one....

Pat

Your's is looking great, hope whatever I do turns out close to yours!

@RJT posted:

I had Korber email me the templates for their kit had them printed as they need to be print on 11x17 paper and then laid out a six stall round house and worked from there I have a 34 inch Millhouse Studios Turntable.

Fantastic that you got the templates from the Mfg. and printed out scale. That has to be the only way to go as my drawing skills aren't to be found!

Aegis21 I updated my post I also made a template for the turntable I wanted to use which was a great help in fitting it all together as you are able to move and fit things before cutting anything I also layout out track to see what I would have when it was all done. In the end I think I ended up with 34 or 35 whisker tracks.

Aegis21,  Thank You for the compliment, however, in my honest opinion Harmonyards has the Ideal Turntable area and the best realistic setting I’ve seen to date. The colorations of ground color is so real looking. His attention to detail is fantastic and you can see the NYC Hudson on the outer track. Wow. I like the Korber roundhouse Kit, however there are other kits available on the market. In purchasing a turntable you need to consider your longest locomotive, a Big Boy requires the 34 inch bridge/table to look correct. It’s all relevant to your room and specifications. One thing for sure is, that area becomes a super focal point, a crowd pleaser area as folks come to your home to run trains. Good luck to you in your search for the ideal turntable and roundhouse for your model railroad pleasure.

I too used the templates of the Korber RH and the turntable to determine the best spacing.  One cheat that makes it much more simple in a small space is to use flex track in the RH stalls to meet the turntable.  In This way you an have what ever angle works for your spacing.  

Basically if you put the track in the RH first, and then bend it to match the turntable you over come the issue of the exact angle the RH was designed for using straight track.  This is especially helpful when you need to limit the distance from the RH to the turntable.

While I am partial to both Korber versions, Dennis Brennan makes a very nice one as does Bob at Altoona model works.  I like the atlas the least.  

if you have the space Korber also makes a nice Diesel engine shed for two tracks that is a nice complement to an engine service area.

@Dave_C posted:

I don’t own one. Was already committed to one before I saw one at York. By far the best I’ve seen is the one from Altoona Model Works. The milled base for the floor for the track to reside to the overall quality of the kit. You have a few options to chose from. Plenty of templates on their site to see what will work as far as space and turntables. Check out posts from Norm Charbonneau or his you tube page. His is by far the best done one I’ve seen.

Thanks for another good option!

@Rich883 posted:

I too used the templates of the Korber RH and the turntable to determine the best spacing.  One cheat that makes it much more simple in a small space is to use flex track in the RH stalls to meet the turntable.  In This way you an have what ever angle works for your spacing.  

Basically if you put the track in the RH first, and then bend it to match the turntable you over come the issue of the exact angle the RH was designed for using straight track.  This is especially helpful when you need to limit the distance from the RH to the turntable.

While I am partial to both Korber versions, Dennis Brennan makes a very nice one as does Bob at Altoona model works.  I like the atlas the least.  

if you have the space Korber also makes a nice Diesel engine shed for two tracks that is a nice complement to an engine service area.

Thaks for the info and the cheat! Space is limited, although I feel lucky to have as much as I do.

I use Korber RH and add a smoke machine. Also added inside detail.Don

There are two other options to save space. No turntable, just use an Ross three way switch or if you need to turn engine just use a turn table and no engine house. Don

There are two Ross 204,  3way switches, pictured lower left. 

There are four possible mathematical items that affect how much space a turntable and roundhouse will use.  They are:

1. Length of your turntable;

2. Angle at which front walls (door walls) of your roundhouse meet;

3. Length of each roundhouse stall; and

4. Indexing (if any) of turntable "stops."

Some turntables allow for an infinite amount of stops because there is no automated indexing, so you stop the rotation by eyeing the proper location.  As noted previously, the Atlas turntable indexes stops each 15 degrees of rotation.

I have attached some documents that should help you sort this all out and see what will fit in your space.

Chuck

Mike I have a new Ross three way switch. I heard they are hard to wire. Did you have any trouble with them? I use under table machines. Don

Here is a simplified diagram of a Korber vs an Atlas roundhouse.  I always thought the Korber was 12 degrees and the Atlas 15 degrees, so they may be off a bit.  The turntable is 28".

This only shows straight track.  If you use curved track from the roundhouse to the turntable you can get the roundhouse closer.  This would work for three, maybe four stalls.

Anyway, not as detailed as Chuck's. Just trying to show the difference that setting the track angles make.

@RJT posted:

I had Korber email me the templates for their kit had them printed as they need to be print on 11x17 paper and then laid out a six stall round house and worked from there I have a 34 inch Millhouse Studios Turntable. Once you set the templates in place you can adjust from there I also made a template for the turntable and using both paper templates I was able  to determine where and how I wanted all to fit.

Rick, your post reminded me that you missed meeting John in person at Mercer Junction 2 weeks ago.  The templates really did help you lay out the whole project!!

@Mark Boyce posted:

Rick, your post reminded me that you missed meeting John in person at Mercer Junction 2 weeks ago.  The templates really did help you lay out the whole project!!

Mark Thank you and I was sorry I missed meeting him but did enjoy our meeting and I hope my thought process in the planning helps him out. I would be willing to talk with him about the process if he would like. You and him seem to be close.

I have the Korber roundhouse with 3 additional stalls.  Also have the Ross 33 inch turntable.  Still need to do a lot of detailing, but i will get there.

@RJT posted:

Mark Thank you and I was sorry I missed meeting him but did enjoy our meeting and I hope my thought process in the planning helps him out. I would be willing to talk with him about the process if he would like. You and him seem to be close.

I met John here on the Forum.  He lives just a little north of Mercer; a little less than an hour drive from me.  I was at John's house once and saw the train room before he had finished the walls.

@scale rail posted:

I use Korber RH and add a smoke machine. Also added inside detail.Don

Looks Great! Where did you get the smoke unit and what model did you use?

@scale rail posted:

There are two other options to save space. No turntable, just use an Ross three way switch or if you need to turn engine just use a turn table and no engine house. Don

All good options that will be considered. Thanks

@CAPPilot posted:

Here is a simplified diagram of a Korber vs an Atlas roundhouse.  I always thought the Korber was 12 degrees and the Atlas 15 degrees, so they may be off a bit.  The turntable is 28".

This only shows straight track.  If you use curved track from the roundhouse to the turntable you can get the roundhouse closer.  This would work for three, maybe four stalls.

Anyway, not as detailed as Chuck's. Just trying to show the difference that setting the track angles make.

This is a great visual and certainly emphasis on track angles is clear. Thanks great input!

@RJT posted:

Mark Thank you and I was sorry I missed meeting him but did enjoy our meeting and I hope my thought process in the planning helps him out. I would be willing to talk with him about the process if he would like. You and him seem to be close.

Hi Rick,  Sorry we did not meet up, I am relatively new to the area (three years) and finally unpacked and renovated the house enough for my wife. So finally the model railroad starts. Too bad Mercer Junction is closing, as I am a believer in supporting LHS. Would love to chat sometime. Your layout is extremely impressive! I am sure I could learn a lot for sure.

Thanks John

@Tony H posted:

I have the Korber roundhouse with 3 additional stalls.  Also have the Ross 33 inch turntable.  Still need to do a lot of detailing, but i will get there.

Nice setup and a huge area with all those whisker tracks! You are surely on the right track and no doubt you will do some super detailing! What is the track angles for the Ross TT? 15, 10, 7.5, 6, or 5 degrees? Did the tracks line up with roundhouse without much trouble?

Hi,

As I noted earlier in this thread, only electronically indexed turntables may be restricted to stops at certain degrees.  The only angle degree that matters as far as turntable and roundhouse placement is concerned is the angle at which the front (door) walls of the roundhouse meet.  See CAPPilot's photo of the Atlas and Korber roundhouse layout earlier in this thread.

Note that Tony H could have placed his roundhouse closer to that turntable, but the stall centerlines would then cross (requiring the use of a track frog for a crossover) before actually reaching the turntable.

Chuck

@PRR1950 posted:

Hi,

As I noted earlier in this thread, only electronically indexed turntables may be restricted to stops at certain degrees.  The only angle degree that matters as far as turntable and roundhouse placement is concerned is the angle at which the front (door) walls of the roundhouse meet.  See CAPPilot's photo of the Atlas and Korber roundhouse layout earlier in this thread.

Note that Tony H could have placed his roundhouse closer to that turntable, but the stall centerlines would then cross (requiring the use of a track frog for a crossover) before actually reaching the turntable.

Chuck

I know my lack of knowledge in this area is glaring. Trying to match roundhouse angles with indexed TT and it appears that I am over thinking this too much. Is that the case? Can a Ross or Millhouse TT work with any roundhouse (Korber, Altoona, Brennen) ?

@Aegis21 posted:

I know my lack of knowledge in this area is glaring. Trying to match roundhouse angles with indexed TT and it appears that I am over thinking this too much. Is that the case? Can a Ross or Millhouse TT work with any roundhouse (Korber, Altoona, Brennen) ?

Yes I would recommend using Gargraves Flex Track that is what I did with a Millhouse Turn Table it will give you wiggle room.

@RJT posted:

Yes I would recommend using Gargraves Flex Track that is what I did with a Millhouse Turn Table it will give you wiggle room.

Your Yes is in refers to my lack of knowledge... LOL How do you like the Millhouse TT? Thanks for the flex track for wiggle room

Aegis21, I think I used a old MTH but it could be a Lionel fan driven smoke unit. It's hidden behind the RH. I put a small brass tube about two inches long into the out let for the smoke. I need brass because of the heat. The tube just slips in so I can add smoke fluid when needed. The top of the brass tube is connected to aquarium hose. The hose is split three way, one for each stall. An aquarium valve is placed on each line so I can control the smoke. Then the three lines are glued to the inside of the roof. They only go about three inches so the don't show. I also use fan smoke units for my lumber mill and Chinese Laundry. I think it makes a nice effect. Hope. this helps. Click on pic to enlarge. Don

I love it Alan makes a fantastic high quality product very smooth operating and about 8000 index points to chose from. I think I have 33 or 34 maybe even 35 whisker tracks and only using about 80% of the circle due to the position on my layout close to one side and needed to leave clearance for the main lines I run some big locomotives and long passenger cars.  I have the 34 inch turntable and went back and forth between Ross and his.   I think I saw one picture on this forum or his website with 40 plus tracks around the turntable.

Aegis21,

Sorry, started watching football and didn't see your return question til just now.  The direct answer is that most any roundhouse can be made to work with any turntable without significant modifications to either product.  The only exception that I am aware of, in O gauge, is the Atlas table-top turntable which requires whisker tracks to line up with the turntable in certain positions.  In the Atlas case, you either have to find a roundhouse that lines up with the turntable positions, cut off the turntable position blocks, or use flex track to meet the table at the required positions and then adjust as it enters whatever roundhouse you choose.

The most complicated aspect of RH & TT use is the amount of space you choose to devote to that use.  All the math involved in the choices (size of TT, size of RH, distance between the two, etc.) is a function of maximizing your use and enjoyment while trying to make it look reasonably accurate.  With that, I hope you have a successful build.

Chuck

@Aegis21 posted:

Nice setup and a huge area with all those whisker tracks! You are surely on the right track and no doubt you will do some super detailing! What is the track angles for the Ross TT? 15, 10, 7.5, 6, or 5 degrees? Did the tracks line up with roundhouse without much trouble?

I am not sure of the angles.  I used the maximum space between the roundhouse and the edge of the turntable.  I want to say 16 inches.  I used that so the tracks would go in straight into the roundhouse.  The closer the roundhouse is, the tracks don’t stay centered all the way through.  My turntable is not the automatic indexed one, i need to stop it when i eye up the track, did not want to spend the extra $.  I do have 8 wisker tracks on the one side, plus the steam/wash & grind Lionel accessory, had to find room for that.  Still plenty of room on the other side, just done know what i want to do there yet.  At the bottom, but not in the picture is the loop around the whole picture so any train that comes in can change direction.  There is a  wye on each end of the loop.

@PRR1950 posted:

Aegis21,

Sorry, started watching football and didn't see your return question til just now.  The direct answer is that most any roundhouse can be made to work with any turntable without significant modifications to either product.  The only exception that I am aware of, in O gauge, is the Atlas table-top turntable which requires whisker tracks to line up with the turntable in certain positions.  In the Atlas case, you either have to find a roundhouse that lines up with the turntable positions, cut off the turntable position blocks, or use flex track to meet the table at the required positions and then adjust as it enters whatever roundhouse you choose.

The most complicated aspect of RH & TT use is the amount of space you choose to devote to that use.  All the math involved in the choices (size of TT, size of RH, distance between the two, etc.) is a function of maximizing your use and enjoyment while trying to make it look reasonably accurate.  With that, I hope you have a successful build.

Chuck

No worries, Thanks for your input about matching TT RH  And it is clear space and realistic modeling are opposing forces to be reckoned with all the time in this hobby. Space will be a major factor along with finances.   Thanks John

I built the Atlas roundhouse for a layout I built for a guy.  Oh man that was a heap of plastic.  Fun to build and finish.  Mated with a Millhouse turntable it was a pretty sweet setup.  It does require a bit of real estate.

@William 1 posted:

I built the Atlas roundhouse for a layout I built for a guy.  Oh man that was a heap of plastic.  Fun to build and finish.  Mated with a Millhouse turntable it was a pretty sweet setup.  It does require a bit of real estate.

Good to hear that it came out so good. From what I have learned so far, RH are not an easy build. And thanks for the real estate warning.

@Aegis21 posted:

Good to hear that it can out so good. From what I have learned so far, RH are not an easy build. And thanks for the real estate warning.

I will be finding that out very soon when I start my Korbor Roundhouse build with 3 extra stalls and Big Boy Extension looking forward to it but want to get track wiring completed first.

Thanks for all of the info presented here!  I just finished two nights of RR-Track CAD work planning a roundhouse, turntable, and engine service tracks.  Tentatively planning on using the Korber RH (5 stalls), with the Ross 27" TT.  Given the degree of effort required, it will likely be a winter '21-22 project, since I am starting the base layout this winter.  Diesel service tracks will be at the opposite end of the yard and may well include the Korber diesel shed.

@RJT posted:

I will be finding that out very soon when I start my Korbor Roundhouse build with 3 extra stalls and Big Boy Extension looking forward to it but want to get track wiring completed first.

Please keep us updated!

@KarlDL posted:

Thanks for all of the info presented here!  I just finished two nights of RR-Track CAD work planning a roundhouse, turntable, and engine service tracks.  Tentatively planning on using the Korber RH (5 stalls), with the Ross 27" TT.  Given the degree of effort required, it will likely be a winter '21-22 project, since I am starting the base layout this winter.  Diesel service tracks will be at the opposite end of the yard and may well include the Korber diesel shed.

What type of bench work are you using and road bed? Thanks

Total subjective call.

Over the years I have installed several RH/TT combinations.  Done somewhat prototypically it gets to be a real land grab.  When finished they can easily overpower any layout, especially when you go from one town to another town and you need two RH/TT set ups to turn your steam engines and observation cars at each end.

Some of the TT/RH installations I have seen on these pages have a real decent amount of space.  I would guess most of us including myself not so.

Think about it for a moment.  Using large mainline locomotives with realistic approach tracks between the pit wall and RH door of 20" to 30".  Couple that with a decent size TT and the needed RH depth and you may be looking at a keystone shape with one end 3' wide the RH back wall side at 4 to 5+ feet wide and an over all length of 8 +/- feet.  That can stifle most folks so then a strategic compression caricature may come into play.

To avoid curved tracks into the RH you can slide a foot print of the RH closer to and farther from  the TT pit edge like a trombone slide which will help you to tune perfect alignment with straight rails centered perpendicular to the RH rear wall.

Some RH brands can be made with different degrees of separation.  Some TTs have the ability to have their stops altered.  Match the TT degrees with the RH degrees so as to avoid reinventing the wheel.

When done correctly you will find a significant real estate requirement.  Which is why I opted out of RHs.

All in my opinion.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...4#152477234138967534

Three way switch is not all that complicated.  A left hand, and right hand switch, back to back.  Two switch motors, one for the left switch, one for the right switch.

You have to logically place each switch back to through, before position the other switch to diverge. I tried to do some complicated non-derail with no success.  Wire the switch as shown on the Ross diagram

@Aegis21 posted:

What type of bench work are you using and road bed? Thanks

I was going to use Mianne benchwork, but the evolution of the track plan, plus the desire to construct this in relocatable pieces (to facilitate dismantling, cleanout, and relocation/repurposing upon death or disability) is pushing me more toward DIY, using framing sawn from upper-grade 3/4" plywood.  Being mostly retired, I have the time to cut and assemble.  I will use Midwest cork roadbed on the main lines and Woodland Scenics foam in the yard etc., both atop Homasote.  The latter may not be essential, but since this is going to be constructed in an unused (heated & finished) bay of the garage barn, which is somewhat of an echo chamber with little opportunity for sound absorption on the walls or ceilings, using Homasote should keeep the cacophony reasonable.

@Tom Tee posted:

Total subjective call.

Over the years I have installed several RH/TT combinations.  Done somewhat prototypically it gets to be a real land grab.  When finished they can easily overpower any layout, especially when you go from one town to another town and you need two RH/TT set ups to turn your steam engines and observation cars at each end.

Some of the TT/RH installations I have seen on these pages have a real decent amount of space.  I would guess most of us including myself not so.

Think about it for a moment.  Using large mainline locomotives with realistic approach tracks between the pit wall and RH door of 20" to 30".  Couple that with a decent size TT and the needed RH depth and you may be looking at a keystone shape with one end 3' wide the RH back wall side at 4 to 5+ feet wide and an over all length of 8 +/- feet.  That can stifle most folks so then a strategic compression caricature may come into play.

To avoid curved tracks into the RH you can slide a foot print of the RH closer to and farther from  the TT pit edge like a trombone slide which will help you to tune perfect alignment with straight rails centered perpendicular to the RH rear wall.

Some RH brands can be made with different degrees of separation.  Some TTs have the ability to have their stops altered.  Match the TT degrees with the RH degrees so as to avoid reinventing the wheel.

When done correctly you will find a significant real estate requirement.  Which is why I opted out of RHs.

All in my opinion.

Lots of wisdom in your post! I am still leaning towards TT & RH to turn engines instead of loop backs. It does eat up real estate but so do loops. I'll see what happens to the buildings and scenery, if they suffer too much, well I don't want to even think about it. LOL

@KarlDL posted:

I was going to use Mianne benchwork, but the evolution of the track plan, plus the desire to construct this in relocatable pieces (to facilitate dismantling, cleanout, and relocation/repurposing upon death or disability) is pushing me more toward DIY, using framing sawn from upper-grade 3/4" plywood.  Being mostly retired, I have the time to cut and assemble.  I will use Midwest cork roadbed on the main lines and Woodland Scenics foam in the yard etc., both atop Homasote.  The latter may not be essential, but since this is going to be constructed in an unused (heated & finished) bay of the garage barn, which is somewhat of an echo chamber with little opportunity for sound absorption on the walls or ceilings, using Homasote should keeep the cacophony reasonable.

Thanks for your input. It will be DIY bench work and I was hoping on 1/2 plywood with 1" foam on top. Not sure if homosote or foam will be better for my layout. Again thanks!

With a loop you can have a yard in the middle, with a TT/RH you can have no yard in the middle.

Mock up B/4 install

@Aegis21 posted:

Thanks for your input. It will be DIY bench work and I was hoping on 1/2 plywood with 1" foam on top. Not sure if homosote or foam will be better for my layout. Again thanks!

Aegis21 Homosote will hold screws better than foam. I covered my entire layout with homosite.

@RJT posted:

Aegis21 Homosote will hold screws better than foam. I covered my entire layout with homosite.

I agree with Rick.  Some places I covered the whole area with Homasote, and other areas (mostly grades) I cut it to be an inch or two wider than the track.  Forum member Ken Hoganson (Ken-Oscale) recommended using a wide drywall anchor in styrofoam then sinking the track screws into it.  I used it on my 2" foam board for my old Christmas layout.  That method was okay for a lightweight temporary layout, but for a permanent layout, I prefer Homasote by far.

Rick & Mark,  What thickness Homosote did you use? I was planning on cookie cutter track using 1/2" ply, (now add homosote, and cork roadbed. Flat areas I'll use 1/2" Ply and homosote for yard areas, would cork be needed in the yard?

@Tom Tee posted:

With a loop you can have a yard in the middle, with a TT/RH you can have no yard in the middle.

Mock up B/4 install

Looking at loops before, I was keeping the reach down to 30" which hampered Loop design as well as TT. Do not know how the TT evolved and reach went to 48" however looking at loops and doing away with TT is still not out of the picture. My thoughts were to get a good idea for track then plan towns, industry, etc. So it looks like it is time to plan industry and towns around the track plan with TT. If the scenery and towns/industry do not provide a great visual experience (I am into the modeling aspect of the hobby), then loops will be revisited. Again Thanks for keeping this as an option.

@Aegis21 posted:

Rick & Mark,  What thickness Homosote did you use? I was planning on cookie cutter track using 1/2" ply, (now add homosote, and cork roadbed. Flat areas I'll use 1/2" Ply and homosote for yard areas, would cork be needed in the yard?

I used 1/2 inch I think that is the only size out there.

Years ago I had purchased 1/4" but now I haven't seen much of either 1/4" or 1/2" around. Just remember it made such a mess when sawing. Next time I visit a lumber yard I'll ask. Thanks, I'll ask about 1/2"

John, mine is 1/2" also.  I cut it with a knife like the old box-cutter or utility knife.  Tom Tee suggested a bent handle knife like the old utility knife that flooring/carpet layers use.  Others here have suggested a knife blade that fits in a saber saw.  No mess at all.  Just be careful!!

The evolution of my off scene staging TT and non RH.  All Homasote razor and trickled smooth with Shop Vac equipped dust free trim router.

Floor covering knife

Lightly scratch along a line5 +/- passesSlightly proudActual sizeInital finish

Drop in 32" pit

Add curved whisker tracks to clear aisle.  If you have a banana shaped RH maybe we can talk.

Thank Tom for step by step! Looks like another great idea!

Thank you Tom for the photograph tutorial.  I tried my best to describe it.  I wish I had known about that knife before cutting all my Homasote with a straight utility knife!  😄

WOW.........just WOW...... Thanks for the detailed share. My brain exploded trying to get a "power on power off" siding to park an engine and consist. Thanks for all ya'lls help. Now, you have exposed me to another concept..... "track isolation switch to power accessories".

And with this Dream Layout, Sooo many levels above my skill set, its Fantastic. Thanks again for the share. like Seeing Big-Boy-2004 hump yard for the first time. "Ka-POW"

Beauty eh

miglet

Frank, your post reflects your signature line!  Yes we are all like the 5 1/2-year old child, and certainly the more we know the more we know how little we know!

Frank and Mark,  Ain't that the truth on how little we really know!