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@Aegis21 posted:

I know my lack of knowledge in this area is glaring. Trying to match roundhouse angles with indexed TT and it appears that I am over thinking this too much. Is that the case? Can a Ross or Millhouse TT work with any roundhouse (Korber, Altoona, Brennen) ?

Yes I would recommend using Gargraves Flex Track that is what I did with a Millhouse Turn Table it will give you wiggle room.

Aegis21, I think I used a oldround house stema MTH but it could be a Lionel fan driven smoke unit. It's hidden behind the RH. I put a small brass tube about two inches long into the out let for the smoke. I need brass because of the heat. The tube just slips in so I can add smoke fluid when needed. The top of the brass tube is connected to aquarium hose. The hose is split three way, one for each stall. An aquarium valve is placed on each line so I can control the smoke. Then the three lines are glued to the inside of the roof. They only go about three inches so the don't show. I also use fan smoke units for my lumber mill and Chinese Laundry. I think it makes a nice effect. Hope. this helps. Click on pic to enlarge. Don

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Last edited by scale rail

I love it Alan makes a fantastic high quality product very smooth operating and about 8000 index points to chose from. I think I have 33 or 34 maybe even 35 whisker tracks and only using about 80% of the circle due to the position on my layout close to one side and needed to leave clearance for the main lines I run some big locomotives and long passenger cars.  I have the 34 inch turntable and went back and forth between Ross and his.   I think I saw one picture on this forum or his website with 40 plus tracks around the turntable.

Aegis21,

Sorry, started watching football and didn't see your return question til just now.  The direct answer is that most any roundhouse can be made to work with any turntable without significant modifications to either product.  The only exception that I am aware of, in O gauge, is the Atlas table-top turntable which requires whisker tracks to line up with the turntable in certain positions.  In the Atlas case, you either have to find a roundhouse that lines up with the turntable positions, cut off the turntable position blocks, or use flex track to meet the table at the required positions and then adjust as it enters whatever roundhouse you choose.

The most complicated aspect of RH & TT use is the amount of space you choose to devote to that use.  All the math involved in the choices (size of TT, size of RH, distance between the two, etc.) is a function of maximizing your use and enjoyment while trying to make it look reasonably accurate.  With that, I hope you have a successful build.

Chuck

@Aegis21 posted:

Nice setup and a huge area with all those whisker tracks! You are surely on the right track and no doubt you will do some super detailing! What is the track angles for the Ross TT? 15, 10, 7.5, 6, or 5 degrees? Did the tracks line up with roundhouse without much trouble?

I am not sure of the angles.  I used the maximum space between the roundhouse and the edge of the turntable.  I want to say 16 inches.  I used that so the tracks would go in straight into the roundhouse.  The closer the roundhouse is, the tracks don’t stay centered all the way through.  My turntable is not the automatic indexed one, i need to stop it when i eye up the track, did not want to spend the extra $.  I do have 8 wisker tracks on the one side, plus the steam/wash & grind Lionel accessory, had to find room for that.  Still plenty of room on the other side, just done know what i want to do there yet.  At the bottom, but not in the picture is the loop around the whole picture so any train that comes in can change direction.  There is a  wye on each end of the loop.

@PRR1950 posted:

Aegis21,

Sorry, started watching football and didn't see your return question til just now.  The direct answer is that most any roundhouse can be made to work with any turntable without significant modifications to either product.  The only exception that I am aware of, in O gauge, is the Atlas table-top turntable which requires whisker tracks to line up with the turntable in certain positions.  In the Atlas case, you either have to find a roundhouse that lines up with the turntable positions, cut off the turntable position blocks, or use flex track to meet the table at the required positions and then adjust as it enters whatever roundhouse you choose.

The most complicated aspect of RH & TT use is the amount of space you choose to devote to that use.  All the math involved in the choices (size of TT, size of RH, distance between the two, etc.) is a function of maximizing your use and enjoyment while trying to make it look reasonably accurate.  With that, I hope you have a successful build.

Chuck

No worries, Thanks for your input about matching TT RH  And it is clear space and realistic modeling are opposing forces to be reckoned with all the time in this hobby. Space will be a major factor along with finances.   Thanks John

@William 1 posted:

I built the Atlas roundhouse for a layout I built for a guy.  Oh man that was a heap of plastic.  Fun to build and finish.  Mated with a Millhouse turntable it was a pretty sweet setup.  It does require a bit of real estate.

Good to hear that it came out so good. From what I have learned so far, RH are not an easy build. And thanks for the real estate warning.

Last edited by Aegis21

Thanks for all of the info presented here!  I just finished two nights of RR-Track CAD work planning a roundhouse, turntable, and engine service tracks.  Tentatively planning on using the Korber RH (5 stalls), with the Ross 27" TT.  Given the degree of effort required, it will likely be a winter '21-22 project, since I am starting the base layout this winter.  Diesel service tracks will be at the opposite end of the yard and may well include the Korber diesel shed.

@KarlDL posted:

Thanks for all of the info presented here!  I just finished two nights of RR-Track CAD work planning a roundhouse, turntable, and engine service tracks.  Tentatively planning on using the Korber RH (5 stalls), with the Ross 27" TT.  Given the degree of effort required, it will likely be a winter '21-22 project, since I am starting the base layout this winter.  Diesel service tracks will be at the opposite end of the yard and may well include the Korber diesel shed.

What type of bench work are you using and road bed? Thanks

Total subjective call.

Over the years I have installed several RH/TT combinations.  Done somewhat prototypically it gets to be a real land grab.  When finished they can easily overpower any layout, especially when you go from one town to another town and you need two RH/TT set ups to turn your steam engines and observation cars at each end.

Some of the TT/RH installations I have seen on these pages have a real decent amount of space.  I would guess most of us including myself not so.

Think about it for a moment.  Using large mainline locomotives with realistic approach tracks between the pit wall and RH door of 20" to 30".  Couple that with a decent size TT and the needed RH depth and you may be looking at a keystone shape with one end 3' wide the RH back wall side at 4 to 5+ feet wide and an over all length of 8 +/- feet.  That can stifle most folks so then a strategic compression caricature may come into play.

To avoid curved tracks into the RH you can slide a foot print of the RH closer to and farther from  the TT pit edge like a trombone slide which will help you to tune perfect alignment with straight rails centered perpendicular to the RH rear wall.

Some RH brands can be made with different degrees of separation.  Some TTs have the ability to have their stops altered.  Match the TT degrees with the RH degrees so as to avoid reinventing the wheel.

When done correctly you will find a significant real estate requirement.  Which is why I opted out of RHs.

All in my opinion.

Last edited by Tom Tee

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...4#152477234138967534

Three way switch is not all that complicated.  A left hand, and right hand switch, back to back.  Two switch motors, one for the left switch, one for the right switch.

You have to logically place each switch back to through, before position the other switch to diverge. I tried to do some complicated non-derail with no success.  Wire the switch as shown on the Ross diagram

Last edited by Mike CT
@Aegis21 posted:

What type of bench work are you using and road bed? Thanks

I was going to use Mianne benchwork, but the evolution of the track plan, plus the desire to construct this in relocatable pieces (to facilitate dismantling, cleanout, and relocation/repurposing upon death or disability) is pushing me more toward DIY, using framing sawn from upper-grade 3/4" plywood.  Being mostly retired, I have the time to cut and assemble.  I will use Midwest cork roadbed on the main lines and Woodland Scenics foam in the yard etc., both atop Homasote.  The latter may not be essential, but since this is going to be constructed in an unused (heated & finished) bay of the garage barn, which is somewhat of an echo chamber with little opportunity for sound absorption on the walls or ceilings, using Homasote should keeep the cacophony reasonable.

@Tom Tee posted:

Total subjective call.

Over the years I have installed several RH/TT combinations.  Done somewhat prototypically it gets to be a real land grab.  When finished they can easily overpower any layout, especially when you go from one town to another town and you need two RH/TT set ups to turn your steam engines and observation cars at each end.

Some of the TT/RH installations I have seen on these pages have a real decent amount of space.  I would guess most of us including myself not so.

Think about it for a moment.  Using large mainline locomotives with realistic approach tracks between the pit wall and RH door of 20" to 30".  Couple that with a decent size TT and the needed RH depth and you may be looking at a keystone shape with one end 3' wide the RH back wall side at 4 to 5+ feet wide and an over all length of 8 +/- feet.  That can stifle most folks so then a strategic compression caricature may come into play.

To avoid curved tracks into the RH you can slide a foot print of the RH closer to and farther from  the TT pit edge like a trombone slide which will help you to tune perfect alignment with straight rails centered perpendicular to the RH rear wall.

Some RH brands can be made with different degrees of separation.  Some TTs have the ability to have their stops altered.  Match the TT degrees with the RH degrees so as to avoid reinventing the wheel.

When done correctly you will find a significant real estate requirement.  Which is why I opted out of RHs.

All in my opinion.

Lots of wisdom in your post! I am still leaning towards TT & RH to turn engines instead of loop backs. It does eat up real estate but so do loops. I'll see what happens to the buildings and scenery, if they suffer too much, well I don't want to even think about it. LOL

@KarlDL posted:

I was going to use Mianne benchwork, but the evolution of the track plan, plus the desire to construct this in relocatable pieces (to facilitate dismantling, cleanout, and relocation/repurposing upon death or disability) is pushing me more toward DIY, using framing sawn from upper-grade 3/4" plywood.  Being mostly retired, I have the time to cut and assemble.  I will use Midwest cork roadbed on the main lines and Woodland Scenics foam in the yard etc., both atop Homasote.  The latter may not be essential, but since this is going to be constructed in an unused (heated & finished) bay of the garage barn, which is somewhat of an echo chamber with little opportunity for sound absorption on the walls or ceilings, using Homasote should keeep the cacophony reasonable.

Thanks for your input. It will be DIY bench work and I was hoping on 1/2 plywood with 1" foam on top. Not sure if homosote or foam will be better for my layout. Again thanks!

@RJT posted:

Aegis21 Homosote will hold screws better than foam. I covered my entire layout with homosite.

I agree with Rick.  Some places I covered the whole area with Homasote, and other areas (mostly grades) I cut it to be an inch or two wider than the track.  Forum member Ken Hoganson (Ken-Oscale) recommended using a wide drywall anchor in styrofoam then sinking the track screws into it.  I used it on my 2" foam board for my old Christmas layout.  That method was okay for a lightweight temporary layout, but for a permanent layout, I prefer Homasote by far.

@Tom Tee posted:

With a loop you can have a yard in the middle, with a TT/RH you can have no yard in the middle.

11 13 10 track mock up 004Mock up B/4 install

Looking at loops before, I was keeping the reach down to 30" which hampered Loop design as well as TT. Do not know how the TT evolved and reach went to 48" however looking at loops and doing away with TT is still not out of the picture. My thoughts were to get a good idea for track then plan towns, industry, etc. So it looks like it is time to plan industry and towns around the track plan with TT. If the scenery and towns/industry do not provide a great visual experience (I am into the modeling aspect of the hobby), then loops will be revisited. Again Thanks for keeping this as an option.

WOW.........just WOW...... Thanks for the detailed share. My brain exploded trying to get a "power on power off" siding to park an engine and consist. Thanks for all ya'lls help. Now, you have exposed me to another concept..... "track isolation switch to power accessories".

And with this Dream Layout, Sooo many levels above my skill set, its Fantastic. Thanks again for the share. like Seeing Big-Boy-2004 hump yard for the first time. "Ka-POW"

Beauty eh

miglet

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