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I went with Atlas track and switches and have very happy with it over the last few years. I would choose it again as well. I looked at all track systems before narrowing it down to Atlas and Scaletrax. I found it difficult to find anyone that carried Scaletrax and Atlas had a much better selection of switches and curves. Also, Scaletrax is the only track type that my LHS does not carry.

If you have things narrowed down to these two track types, my honest recommendation to you would be to go examine them both in person and choose the one you like the best based on your needs. In the end it's you that needs to be happy with the choice of track. No track system is perfect and they can all be made to work with the help of the folks here on the forum.

Scaletrax switches are really only compatible with Scaletrax track and vice versa. The rails are low profile as well. If you are using Scaletrax track, you should try to use Scaletrax switches. There are no Scaletrax adapters for other track systems. If you aren't using Scaletrax track, find another switch, Ross or Atlas. Otherwise, you will be laying the switches without track joiners and will be shimming the switches to mate the rail height.

George 

BTW, if you haven't picked a track system, Atlas can be mated to Gargraves and Ross track with Atlas specialty joiners. There are ways to get all the other track systems to work together, but not easily with Scaletrax.

That doesn't mean that Scaletrax is bad. It is a highly attractive product. It is just a closed system, kind-of like Apple products.

If you like Scaletrax because of it low rail height and tie spacing AND can work with its limited selection of pieces and availability then go with it.  Otherwise, go with Atlas and if you need something special add Ross.  Don't try and save money with used track, especially switches.

I went with Atlas. 

Jan

I spent a lot of time debating the very same thing and finally decided on Scale Trax, because of its low profile and nearly invisible center rail.  When it is laid and ballasted, nothing looks better (IMHO).  Take a look at pictures of ballasted rail system and you will most likely agree.

That being said, there are many time when I wish I hadn't gone with Scale Trax.  Right now I am working on a Christmas layout for this year and want to use my Scale Trax.  Being a Christmas layout it needs to be smaller, but I don't like to use O-31.  I really want O-42, which is a perfect middle ground radius for smoother operation, but still relatively compact.  There are no O-42 curves or switches in Scale Trax.  Sure there is flex track, but that is not easy to lay down on a layout that you are going to take apart in a month to put away for the rest of the year.

Furthermore, for me, Scale Trax switches have been problematic with shorting when certain locomotives (usually larger ones) have wheels that get close to or touch the frog, which is supposed to be isolated.  This a problem I have come to find that many Scale Trax users experience and fix by widening the air gap between the moveable switch points and the frog.  It is correctable, but requires modification I wish I didn't have to do.

I did take a hard look at Atlas, when debating this and the reason I didn't go with it was the center rail is just too "substantial."  Being the center rail, we usually want it to be "invisible."  The Atlas center rail is darkend, but being such a heavy T rail, is still pretty prominent and noticeable.  As stated by other on the forum, I also didn't like their huge switch machines. 

I built a club layout when I was stationed up in Alaska, with Ross Custom Switches and Gargraves track.  I must say that nothing even comes close to this combination, when considering smoothness of operation, reliability, and switch configuration choices.  But, this combination has its drawbacks as well, mainly cost.

Sorry this is so long, but there is a lot to consider and in the end, it boils down to what is important to you; realistic look, not having to fiddle with it to get it to work smoothly and reliably or cost and variety of switch selection.

I still love the look of Scale Trax (check out Rich Batista's layout), but MTH has done a poor job of committing to the system.  They produced a certain selection of pieces and that's it.  They have not continued to grow it by adding other pieces.

Good luck in your decision.

Jon

 

First thank you everyone for your sincere interest. I miss this hobby and the people who love it as much as me. I am back after a 25 year hiatus. I realize I must narrow the question. I am a grandfather now and the first purpose of the layout is for my grandchildren to play with it with as much ease as possible. Having built 3 model railroads I know track switches are the most crucial. I will mingle detail realism with the toy like MTH and Lionel accessories for my grandchildren to explore tactically in a screen driven world. So the question is, what is the most reliable switch and switch machine with non-derailing features "You would want your grandchildren or children to play with"? Everything else is secondary. Thank you. Dennis

 

Jon Henshey posted:

I spent a lot of time debating the very same thing and finally decided on Scale Trax, because of its low profile and nearly invisible center rail.  When it is laid and ballasted, nothing looks better (IMHO).  Take a look at pictures of ballasted rail system and you will most likely agree.

That being said, there are many time when I wish I hadn't gone with Scale Trax.  Right now I am working on a Christmas layout for this year and want to use my Scale Trax.  Being a Christmas layout it needs to be smaller, but I don't like to use O-31.  I really want O-42, which is a perfect middle ground radius for smoother operation, but still relatively compact.  There are no O-42 curves or switches in Scale Trax.  Sure there is flex track, but that is not easy to lay down on a layout that you are going to take apart in a month to put away for the rest of the year.

Furthermore, for me, Scale Trax switches have been problematic with shorting when certain locomotives (usually larger ones) have wheels that get close to or touch the frog, which is supposed to be isolated.  This a problem I have come to find that many Scale Trax users experience and fix by widening the air gap between the moveable switch points and the frog.  It is correctable, but requires modification I wish I didn't have to do.

I did take a hard look at Atlas, when debating this and the reason I didn't go with it was the center rail is just too "substantial."  Being the center rail, we usually want it to be "invisible."  The Atlas center rail is darkend, but being such a heavy T rail, is still pretty prominent and noticeable.  As stated by other on the forum, I also didn't like their huge switch machines. 

I built a club layout when I was stationed up in Alaska, with Ross Custom Switches and Gargraves track.  I must say that nothing even comes close to this combination, when considering smoothness of operation, reliability, and switch configuration choices.  But, this combination has its drawbacks as well, mainly cost.

Sorry this is so long, but there is a lot to consider and in the end, it boils down to what is important to you; realistic look, not having to fiddle with it to get it to work smoothly and reliably or cost and variety of switch selection.

I still love the look of Scale Trax (check out Rich Batista's layout), but MTH has done a poor job of committing to the system.  They produced a certain selection of pieces and that's it.  They have not continued to grow it by adding other pieces.

Good luck in your decision.

Jon

 

Please see my response

rtr12 posted:

I went with Atlas track and switches and have very happy with it over the last few years. I would choose it again as well. I looked at all track systems before narrowing it down to Atlas and Scaletrax. I found it difficult to find anyone that carried Scaletrax and Atlas had a much better selection of switches and curves. Also, Scaletrax is the only track type that my LHS does not carry.

If you have things narrowed down to these two track types, my honest recommendation to you would be to go examine them both in person and choose the one you like the best based on your needs. In the end it's you that needs to be happy with the choice of track. No track system is perfect and they can all be made to work with the help of the folks here on the forum.

Please see my response

Jon Henshey posted:

I spent a lot of time debating the very same thing and finally decided on Scale Trax, because of its low profile and nearly invisible center rail.  When it is laid and ballasted, nothing looks better (IMHO).  Take a look at pictures of ballasted rail system and you will most likely agree.

That being said, there are many time when I wish I hadn't gone with Scale Trax.  Right now I am working on a Christmas layout for this year and want to use my Scale Trax.  Being a Christmas layout it needs to be smaller, but I don't like to use O-31.  I really want O-42, which is a perfect middle ground radius for smoother operation, but still relatively compact.  There are no O-42 curves or switches in Scale Trax.  Sure there is flex track, but that is not easy to lay down on a layout that you are going to take apart in a month to put away for the rest of the year.

Furthermore, for me, Scale Trax switches have been problematic with shorting when certain locomotives (usually larger ones) have wheels that get close to or touch the frog, which is supposed to be isolated.  This a problem I have come to find that many Scale Trax users experience and fix by widening the air gap between the moveable switch points and the frog.  It is correctable, but requires modification I wish I didn't have to do.

I did take a hard look at Atlas, when debating this and the reason I didn't go with it was the center rail is just too "substantial."  Being the center rail, we usually want it to be "invisible."  The Atlas center rail is darkend, but being such a heavy T rail, is still pretty prominent and noticeable.  As stated by other on the forum, I also didn't like their huge switch machines. 

I built a club layout when I was stationed up in Alaska, with Ross Custom Switches and Gargraves track.  I must say that nothing even comes close to this combination, when considering smoothness of operation, reliability, and switch configuration choices.  But, this combination has its drawbacks as well, mainly cost.

Sorry this is so long, but there is a lot to consider and in the end, it boils down to what is important to you; realistic look, not having to fiddle with it to get it to work smoothly and reliably or cost and variety of switch selection.

I still love the look of Scale Trax (check out Rich Batista's layout), but MTH has done a poor job of committing to the system.  They produced a certain selection of pieces and that's it.  They have not continued to grow it by adding other pieces.

Good luck in your decision.

Jon

 

Please see my response

"So the question is, what is the most reliable switch and switch machine with non-derailing features "You would want your grandchildren or children to play with"? Everything else is secondary. Thank you. Dennis"

Dennis, in this case I would recommend Lionel Fastrack.  It will be super reliable, easy to use, non-derailing and certain operating accessories combine with it nicely for their operation.  It has all the grade crossings and signal lamps available or integrated, has roadbed and was designed with children operators in mind.  The pin connections lend to putting together on the floor and staying together.

Jon

I have 47 Atlas and 12 RCS curved turnouts on my layout. Sorry, no Scaletrax to compare. 

In about five years of operation (how time flies!), I have had no (zero) problems with the Atlas switch machines, and no problems with derailing (except with one specific locomotive, occasionally). However, I have had to replace six of the jumpers under the turnouts.

I have had derailing problems with some of the RCS turnouts (with DZ1000 machines) when backing up trains, and also problems with the DZ1000's themselves; primarily bouncing back. Yes, I have tried different voltage levels. Admittedly, the DZ1000's are very well engineered and constructed, and most work fine.

If I had to do it all over again (not likely, unless we win the lottery), I would use all Atlas. I have over 900 feet of Atlas track as well.

Alex

I have not had any problems with my Atlas switches or switch machines that were purchased new. I have had some repairs to make on some I purchased used. That includes replacing the switch machine on a few of the used ones. I would also recommend purchasing new switches and that is what I will be doing from now on. My grandson is 11 and he has been operating things on my layout since he was about 6 or so and he has yet to break anything. He is probably an exception to the rule though as he has always been very careful with things. 

The only thing to watch out for with the Atlas switch machines is holding the switch button down too long. They are twin coil switch machines and will burn up if held on too long. I suppose you could swap them out with Tortoise or DZ-1000's if you have problems. I have no Tortoise and only one DZ-1000. So far my DZ-1000 has been just fine. I had one spot where the Atlas switch machine would not fit, the reason for the DZ-1000. It's a lot smaller than the Atlas.

I don't know what Scaletrax uses for switch machines, I have never seen one?

In the post above by Ingeniero No1 at the bottom of the post is a link to his layout build thread. He has some great tips on using Atlas track on his layout and my favorite is his method of connecting power to the rails. Well worth reading the entire thread, or at least looking through it, IMO.

Last edited by rtr12

Dennis:

"So the question is, what is the most reliable switch and switch machine with non-derailing features "You would want your grandchildren or children to play with"? Everything else is secondary. Thank you. Dennis"

I use both Atlas O and RCS also. I have had my share of burned out Atlas O switch motors. As RTHOMPS said Atlas O has for the most part taken care of the issue with better quality controllers though their Deluxe 57 controller has had a major recall. To play it safe I use 1 amp (overkill) momentary toggle switches with a diode on the power line to the switch machine. The diode cuts the AC signal in half (DC) which allows the switch machine to run cooler.

So far other than a red led light issue with some I have had zero issues with the DZ1000 switch motors attached to my RCS turnouts.

So basically what I am saying is that whether you choose Atlas O or RCS - quality should not be a determining factor. However for ease of non-derail feature - I assume you are talking about automatic switch of turnout position when a train enters the turnout on the 'wrong side' then the DZ1000 is the way to go. For the DZ-1000 you need to isolate one ground rail and attach a wire from it to the DZ-1000 and you are done. I don't believe this has changed - with Atlas O switch machines you need to buy a circuit board and make a lot more wired connections.

The neat thing is you can "have your cake and eat it to". There is nothing stopping you from buying Atlas O turnouts and using DZ-1000 switch motors with them. Basically as my Atlas O motors burnout or stop working I am replacing with DZ-1000.

Using the DZ-1000 switch motor opens you up to the use of the 1011R and 1075 detectors and a wonderful little relay called the 1008. Attached to the DZ-1000 and if needed to power rails within your turnouts the 1008 can turn power on or off in the center of the turnout depending on which route the loco is taking so that for older engines with one or two closely spaced rollers you will not loose power as the engine rolls through the turnout. The 1008 can also be attached to a 1011R to indicate turnout position. The 1075 detector can be used to control just about any lighted signal manufactured (Lionel, MTH, Atlas O etc) either as a stand alone IR detector (like the Lionel or MTH ITAD) or connected to isolated track.

Joe

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