I use these. Search for 8 way bus bar from ebay. About $9, but make it easier.
I probably wouldn't have been able to write it up as nicely as George, but I had similar thoughts on the grounding bar and how it could be less than ideal for smaller wires, especially stranded ones.
That screw connection is relying on a conductor close to the size of the hole. A properly sized conductor, such as the size George points out, can then reasonably be held in place with the screw.
Mashing one (or more) smaller conductors down with the screw will probably not be ideal. You may get poor contact, and if you use more than one wire, you are probably getting to the point where you are losing the intended utility of using a barrier strip, that being you can easily remove one connection later if required.
-Dave
George, John, and Dave,
Thanks for pointing out the pitfalls of the grounding strip. I am certainly no expert, so I appreciate your comments. I heard via this forum of someone using those and thought it sounded good at the time.
Thanks!
JD
I don't care for the grounding strip in our applications. The only thing it has going for it is that it's inexpensive. I very much like an insulated strip which is more compatible with our wire gauges. Compared to the cost of the layout, each appropriate strip we may purchase is less cost than one piece of track. I think it's important not to focus on one favorable aspect of a choice, but to think more broadly about all the aspects including safety, ease of use, appropriate for the purpose and compatible with the associated parts, etc.
So, apparently I bought the wrong item from Lowe's (pictured). There's never anyone in that place who knows anything about electrical items. I asked the hardward guy if he could open the package and check it out. I was primarily interested to know if the terminals were connected on the long side. He said he couldn't tell but thought they were connected on the inside. They were not as I found out two days ago. In another post, someone suggested a jumper strip which I think can be used with these terminal strips and solve the problem.
There won't be any more changes this year, but setup will be smarter and faster next Christmas. I'm going to wait until after I remove all houses and scenery to run the wiring for the accessories. It will be much easier to drill holes through the wood supports and route the wires in a manner that will not interfere with the various power cords for the Dept 56 houses. I had to use a coat hanger to push the power cords across the table surface since the benchwork with track and buildings was already on top of the folding table.
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Garrett76 posted:So, apparently I bought the wrong item from Lowe's (pictured). There's never anyone in that place who knows anything about electrical items. I asked the hardward guy if he could open the package and check it out. I was primarily interested to know if the terminals were connected on the long side. He said he couldn't tell but thought they were connected on the inside. They were not as I found out two days ago. In another post, someone suggested a jumper strip which I think can be used with these terminal strips and solve the problem.
There won't be any more changes this year, but setup will be smarter and faster next Christmas. I'm going to wait until after I remove all houses and scenery to run the wiring for the accessories. It will be much easier to drill holes through the wood supports and route the wires in a manner that will not interfere with the various power cords for the Dept 56 houses. I had to use a coat hanger to push the power cords across the table surface since the benchwork with track and buildings was already on top of the folding table.
Yes Garrett, this is the jumper strip to use for those following along.
George
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George S posted:
Do you have a part # and where Garrett can buy that jumper strip?
As others have noted there are different sizes of these strips; if the pic below is the Lowe's product he has I think he needs 9/16" centers - though you wouldn't know it hunting around for dimensions on the Lowe's site!
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They are called Terminal Block Jumpers and you can get them at Molex or Radio Shack online. I could not find them on the Lowes or Home Depot web sites. I think I bought mine and the blocks at Radio Shack. There is a Molex part number 0380021290 for a Beau 8 circuit connector, but it is spec'd at .375" centers. I am not sure whether that is the exact match to Garrett's terminal block. I couldn't find the specs on the Radio Shack model.
OK. So you have 3/8" centers.
My guess is Lowe's Utilitech GTB-408-UT is a private-label (or whatever you call it) and close cousin to the big supplier Gardner Bender GTB-408 strip which has 9/16" centers.
You'd think these jumpers to make a bus'd connection would be clearly listed as an accessory or companion part to the terminal blocks themselves!
And NYC Subway's barrier strip is yet another option with 7.5mm centers.
And Garrett asks for as the "simplest way".
Anyway, my suggestion to Garrett is to just measure what you have. If you want to use the jumper-strip method to distribute your voltage, then be sure to get one with the correct center-to-center dimension. Unfortunately you may need to hunt or go mail-order around as it appears Lowe's, Home Depot, and the other usual suspects may not stock them...
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George S posted:They are called Terminal Block Jumpers and you can get them at Molex or Radio Shack online. I could not find them on the Lowes or Home Depot web sites. I think I bought mine and the blocks at Radio Shack. There is a Molex part number 0380021290 for a Beau 8 circuit connector, but it is spec'd at .375" centers. I am not sure whether that is the exact match to Garrett's terminal block. I couldn't find the specs on the Radio Shack model.
Radio Shacks are .375 inch centers
Hi Group
Allelectonics.com has the terminal but no strip terminal.
http://www.allelectronics.com/...rips/dual-row/1.html
Whada ya mean, why carry those too?
I'd call and put the question in a managers hands and tell them you'll callback. I have seen the jumpers in either Lowes or HD, but that doesn't mean they carry them at every store, or at all anymore.....it also doesn't mean they haven't been moved to the paint department
I'm sure you could find them cheaper, but in a pinch for an odd part like this Grainger is a good place to start. There used to be enough manufacturers represented to cover just about anything, and if they didn't have "it" they often knew who did.
In my post above, you don't need the jumper strip. That's why I said it was easier, one side for hot, one side for ground.
John H posted:In my post above, you don't need the jumper strip. That's why I said it was easier, one side for hot, one side for ground.
It's not a bad idea, they end up being the same thing basically.
But is the bar as easily customizable as the strips? Those jumpers can be clipped and groups set up eliminating empty excesses.
I see wire too, so what was is its max amp rating?
Good point on the amps. I'm not sure. I just use them for buildings and they are all LEDs. Most accessories don't draw like engines so I messed that up.
I use these barrier strips from Allied, 28 double rows. I cut them to the length I need.
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John H posted:Good point on the amps. I'm not sure. I just use them for buildings and they are all LEDs. Most accessories don't draw like engines so I messed that up.
Messesed up ? Not really. Its still a quick and simple option. We don't know what its limits are though.
Messing up would be to not share what you thought might help
WOW Talk about complicating a cheese sandwich!!
John H posted:I use these. Search for 8 way bus bar from ebay. About $9, but make it easier.
So... a novice here....and don't want to mess up this thread .... but is what I am looking at a bus bar as opposed to a barrier strip. I have used some bus bars on a simple layout and found them very easy to use. Having trouble finding more....