I am working on upgrading a Williams by Bachmann Hudson locomotive to command control. I was just wondering what the dimensions are on a MTH smoke unit. I want to make sure it will fit in the smoke box before getting one ordered.

Also, the MTH smoke unit work well with Gunrunnerjohn's Super Chuffer boards and ERR electronics, right? Just double checking.

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The MTH smoke unit should work in your Hudson, I've put them in a variety of Williams locomotives.

Looks like 1 3/8" tall, 1 1/2" long, 1" wide, and the top shot shows you were the stack is located.  You'll need the brass funnel as well, that's what I use to solder my brass stack extension to.

 

 

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gunrunnerjohn posted:

The MTH smoke unit should work in your Hudson, I've put them in a variety of Williams locomotives.

Looks like 1 3/8" tall, 1 1/2" long, 1" wide, and the top shot shows you were the stack is located.  You'll need the brass funnel as well, that's what I use to solder my brass stack extension to.

 

 

That small size is great. Would you be so kind as to give the actual MTH part number

Rod Miller

I had a few more questions about this project I am working on before I start ordering components:

1) This schematic from the Super Chuffer II manual is for the Super Chuffer, Chuff Generator, Cruise Commander, and "idle smoke intensity."

(see attached file)

At the bottom of the page, are the relay, capacitor, and "loops" related to the idle smoke intensity? And if so, what components are needed to make them? I am not entirely sure what the square "loops" inside the dotted line are referring to.
 
2) Would the headlight output on the Super Chuffer II be capable of handling two LEDs? I ask because the WBB Hudson comes with a red incandescent bulb under the motor for an ashpan glow effect. If the headlight output could handle two LEDs, then I would like to have a standard headlight and a red LED to achieve the same ashpan glow effect, and have Rule 17 make the ashcan glow brighter when the engine starts moving.
 
3) What Ohm rating does the element in the MTH smoke unit mentioned above (AA-0000070) come with?
 
Thanks in advance!
 

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1) That's an optional configuration with extra components to achieve an additional effect, that being lowering the smoke output when you're stopped.  The relay is the Axicom IM06DG.  The bridge rectifiers are 1.2A rectifiers.

2) The Super-Chuffer handles a single LED for the headlight.  I'd run the second ashpan glow direct from the TMCC headlight output, just add a resistor.

3) The resistors in the MTH smoke unit are replaced using a single 20 ohm wirewound 2W or 3W resistor.  I put the single resistor in the holes closest to the stack.

I've actually done a separate board since then to give me a more universal capability for smoke intensity control.  This is how I do it nowadays.  I actually used up the blank PCB's I had or I'd show you a real picture, I have to order more.

Steam Smoke Intensity Controller - Rev. 1.1 Schematic

Steam Smoke Intensity Controller - Rev. 1.1 3D

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I take this 5W resistor: Stackpole CB5JB20R0.  I put it in the vice with the points on each side clamped and squeeze it.  The outer ceramic shell flakes away and I have a perfect 2W 20 ohm resistor for the smoke unit.  In quantity 10, they're 38 cents each.  I use these as I want the uncoated resistors, and they're hard to find.

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John, I am converting a MTH diesel to TMCC so does this resistor change apply to my conversion too? One more question while I am here can I use a Super chuffer on a PS 1 smoke unit? The ceramic resistors were a great idea; I put one in my Atlas and it worked out great especially for 58 cents.

If it's a PS/2 smoke unit, you need to change the resistors.

PS/1 has no chuff signal, the sound is generated on the board, so the Super-Chuffer is not compatible with those.

Yes, and you'll also need 5V power for the fan if you aren't adding a Super-Chuffer.  I put a single 20 ohm resistor closest to the stack exit hole.

It's mandatory to change the resistors, not doing so will result in a lot of smoke for a very short time and then you'll either be replacing the smoke unit PCB, the R2LC smoke triac, maybe the whole R2LC, or maybe all of the above.  I would have mentioned it if it were optional.

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