Some Newbie DCS/Legacy/TMCC and Power Questions

I'm not the expert on this but will offer my personal experience as to running TMCC/LEGACY and MTH DCS.

If you have not purchased any DCS engines yet, I would recommend staying away from those that are PS1. Not worth the money IMO.

I started out with DCS. I did buy 2 PS1 engines, not knowing any better. I then added a TMCC Command base with a Cab 1. In the beginning, I ran my TMCC engines using the DCS remote, and was happy with the results. I then bought a couple of Legacy engines and upgraded to a Legacy base. 

I now run all my TMCC and Legacy engines with the Legacy remote, which I find easy to use and better control than with the DCS remote - I hate the thumb roller knob and the fact that you have to push on it to make engine changes, menu set up, etc. Already had to replace the knob after only one year and I DO NOT HAVE A HEAVY THUMB!

So as to question 2, you can run TMCC/Legacy with either the CAB 1 or the DCS controller. I use the DCS remote to run only MTH engines, Legacy remote for all TMCC/Legacy engines.

You can NOT run DCS with the Cab 1 or Legacy remote.

As for the 2 PS1 engines, I removed all the electronics and replaced it with Electric Railroad Cruise Commander and Sound - a GREAT IMPROVEMENT.

I am sure that others will be of more help.

If you are just starting out, I assume you are talking about one loop of track with a couple of sidings to park trains/cars.  If it is not a permanent layout, I would wire the layout using simple bus wiring with drops every few feet to prevent voltage drop and without blocks.  Also run wires off the bus to the sidings, but through an on/off switch to remove power from the siding to park engines.  If you are starting a permanent layout, I would wire for DCS now even though you may not buy a set for a while. Do a search on the forum for DCS wiring discussions (and see Q2 below).

As far as question one, the old post WWII transformers had a total maximum power of 190 watts or less to the tracks depending on condition.  I don’t think it would help to use more than one circuit per loop of track, so hook everything up to one throttle.  If you have two loops of track, isolate the tracks with an insulating pin in the center rail between the loops, and use one throttle for one loop and the other for the other loop.  If you run a couple of engines and lighted passenger cars, you will find the ZW will run out of juice very quick.  I run command only and use the PowerHouse 180 bricks because you can usually find them fairly cheap.  One brick has nearly the same power as the old ZW.

Question two is a whole book in itself.  In fact, one has been written by a forum sponsor and contributor Barry Broskowitz.  Do a search on his name and you will find lots of info on DCS, how to set it up and how to use it with TMCC (like Ray, I run my TMCC/Legacy engines with my Legacy controller).  I personally would stay TMCC for now and read these forums for info while you get comfortable with “O” again.

For question three, as long as you have the Cab1 base connected, you will be able to operate your CC Fastrack switches without problems.  With a few exceptions, TMCC/Legacy and DCS do not interfere with each other.

I'm sure others will add more.  Welcome back and have fun.

Thanks everyone! I've been warned of PS1 so steering clear of those.

Knowing I can seemingly do everything (if not perfectly) from a DCS I may eventually pick one up. It seems the legacy controls are what I definitely don't need at the moment, since TMCC I already have can handle my lionel, and a future DCS + command base could handle any MTH acquisitions plus current stock.

Much appreciated, time to go run trains!

Are you going to use FasTrack?

Question #1- One channel of the ZW will power the entire loop. For conventional and TMCC operation just run a pair of 12awg (hot and Common) down the center and use the 3M spice connectors to tie in with 16awg to the track about every 10-12 track joints.

You can get the .110 splice connectors at Advance Auto for a few or eBay for a pack of 100.

The FasTrack switches do not use much power. Just leave the track power jumper in and use track power. If you run more conventional trains, you may want to use a second channel of the ZW set at 14 volts and remove the jumper and power the switches with Auxiliary power. You can use 20-24 gauge wire for those. Telephone wire, Cat5 cable, etc.

Question#2

If you go MTH\DCS you'll need to rewire the loop for the DCS signal.

Question#3

Switch power won't be an issue. Not sure if DCS will fire them remotely. They do use a TMCC signal, so it's possible.

Since you're starting out, I also recommend you avoid any of the older PS/2 locomotives with the 5V boards.  Many of those boards will fail long before they're time.  There are differing opinions of why, but the net result is you typically need a replacement board set, around $200 or more.

You can identify the 5V board locomotives as they have the round charging jack, and they also have a 9V battery if you look in the manual for the specific model.

Thanks Carl and John!

I will indeed be running fastrack. This is all for floor fiddling now, so no serious wiring complications that a permanent layout would have.  In fact, i could even swap wires from system to system as I swap locomotives if I wanted, its only 2-3 wires per setup

Permanent layout is years off so I'm safe for now.

John- VERY handy info on the 2.0 locomotives as well. I guess there is a reason they look appealing used when compared with lionel. I'll need to research my models before any purchases

Anything made after 2004-2005 should have 3V boards, but it's best to download the manual from the MTH site on the specific model you're interested in and check to make sure.  The 3V boards proved to be much more robust and they're also much easier to do component repairs on.