Standalone railroad crossing options

MTH makes some scale crossing flashers with the lowering arms. They can be activated by an insulated rail or optical trigger. 

 

I believe that Z-stuff may also sell a set that has the optical trigger already built in.

 

The Lionel Fastrack version will be the easiest to install but I too heard the poor reviews. However, the newest rendition may have solved the previous issues.

The convenience of plug and play might be worth the few extra bucks.

We have both Fastrack crossings (gates and without) and they work great.  The gate version had a little bug when we first got it 8 years ago but Customer Service told me how to fix it and has worked flawlessly since.  The sounds really set these apart from the rest and the scale is perfect for his Polar Express.  They are standalone but be careful with the light masts.  They don't hold up to people kicking or dogs running them over very well.  Buy with confidence.  

Thanks Steims, it is nice to read a positive review of the Fastrack crossings!  What was the minor issue that Lionel had you repair?  Just wondering if something simple is what causes a lot of those negative reviews.

 

The next problem is the price tag of those items.  Wow.

It was a simple adjustment.  She had me pull the four screws on the cover for each arm gearbox.  Then I either moved something up or down or packed some more lube in there but I honestly don't remember for sure.  It has been on the layout working great since then.

Is he a modeler?

  Why not let him try his hand at a crossing, and just use scale signals and trigger them how you see fit?

 Issolated rails, reed switches, to optical electronics, triggering can be done many ways.

Lionel makes/made an opitcal triggers that look like trackside electrical boxes.

 

  The MTH crossbuck & signal lights are sturdy little scale pieces made mostly of metal.

   I was impressed.

  

The MTH accessories run on DC. 

Half wave from 1 diode is working for me so far . I just got one.

No gate though , and no sound board .........shhhhh 

 

 

He is not a "modeler"... I mean he is barely past 5 years old, just turned 6.  So while he has an eye for realism, he does not have the patience or know-how for details regarding electronics or landscapes. 

 

And the reason I mention "standalone" is because it would need to be an item that can be picked up and moved around, i.e. placed around the Christmas tree for a few weeks, then probably up to his bedroom.  We don't have HUGE open areas, so I'd be nervous with wiring strung around various places for switches and extra power supplies.

 

I think I'm limiting myself to the Fastrack models as I type this.  But dang they are so expensive!  I'll keep watching ebay and maybe will get lucky.

I would go with the fastrack ones.  They make ones with just the cross bucks flashing and sound.  Eliminates any additional complications from gates going up and down and they work great.  Mine have been working for 8 years or so.  Easiest install and does the job for the little guy.  BigRail

I'm leaning that way and am hoping to find something used/working for around $40-50.  New they are running $80-90 last time I checked.

I have a set of the fastrack crossing signals w/out the gates I'd be willing to sell. 

E-mail sent

I would just caution you regarding the fragile nature of the cross bucks on the Fastrack versions. They plug into the base via a 1/8 stereo style plug. While it seems like an elegant method, the stem can get separated from the collar quite easily with just the easiest bump. Once they do, the operation of the flashing lights is hit or miss. Thus, I would make sure that they're not in the line of fire.

 

Thanks graz, that is helpful to know.

Hey again CoulstonR, I sent you an e-mail to the address in your profile but never got a response.  Is your Fastrack crossing still available?

The MTH set requires an additional control relay or the optical sensors already mentioned. They do work. My opinion, long term, not 100% reliable. At the time probably priced competitively.  I have three sets, two installed, one for spare parts.

 

As pictured it requires the red and black wire connected for power to the unit.  Keep in mind this is times (2), power is to be supplied to each gate.  The Blue, White, and Yellow wires require some type of a (normally open (NO)/common(C)/normally closed(NC)), relay to operate. 

 

Connect the blue and yellow together, held between my thumb and fore finger,  the gate will go down and stay down, with flashing lights.

 

Connect the Blue and White together, the gate will go up and stay up. 

 

There are limit adjustment screws on the back of the control panel.  Getting the adjustments correct can be frustrating. I have also had trouble with the plastic drive gear on the motor shaft.  CA application was a fix. 

 

Best wishes with your project.  There are extension arms for the gates, part of the two gate in a box offering. MTH 30-11012, Price on the box is $47 discounted to $41, does not include any additional connection material or relays.  Prices could easily be from 10 to 12 years ago.  Much has doubled in price in that period. IMO.   

 

 

Click on this link for a better look at the instructions.

 

This relay operates the gates. 

The Green wire is an isolated (rail section), track common, input to the board. As the train axles connect this rail section to the other outside rail, the gate will operate.  

Yellow, White, and Blue correspond to Yellow, White, and Blue of the crossing gate.

Brown (Black?) is Common power to this board. 

Red is accessory power to the board. Board works well. Note that both the board and the crossing gate require accessory power 12 to 20 volts AC

While I agree with the opinion that as a 'stand alone' device the Fastrack gates/flashers are probably the best bet., for a 6-year old they can be...challenging..., especially if teardown and re-building of the layout is part of the play/creativity he/she will be doing.

 

The two 5" gapped 'trigger tracks'...our (LHS) term...sections that MUST be present, properly aligned, and oriented in order for the accessory to work at all, are a big part of that challenge.  After initial sales years ago upon their first release resulted in many being brought in for a refund on the premise of "Not Working!", we instituted a policy of demonstrating at the counter for the customer...young AND old...at the time of purchase the proper arrangement of the three pieces for installation.  We also reference the instruction folder pages that state this.  To no one's amazement, many of those 'not working' purchases made a 180-degree trip back out the store door after they were proven at the counter to work...after all.  Sort of a polite "Duh!" moment, if you will. 

 

Then there's the annual "How come?" phone calls....'How come the accessory worked last year, but when I set it up under the tree this year it won't work, or works all the time never stopping, etc., etc., blah, blah.??"  The polite verbal 'Dinozzo' reminds them of the 3-piece idiosyncrasy of the accessory.   Or the search for the elusive gapped trigger tracks begins.  Or the gapped trigger track having been placed elsewhere on the layout resulting in weirdness of train operation.......all part of the seasonal 'fun'!

 

That said, the gates are another matter.  They don't like manual encouragement!...at all!  I'm told the latest version of the accessory is more forgiving of this element of 'play', but this retailer's jury is still out on that claim. 

 

The commentary regarding the co-axial plug attachment of the  crossbucks on the flashers-only accessory is spot-on.  This past couple weeks we've tried to analyze the seeming incompatibility of a pair of accessory bases and an assortment of flashers as to the cause of inconsistent performance....to no avail.

 

And neither accessory...gates/flashers or flashers, only...are tolerant of accidental sidewards force....e.g., derailing speeding trains, swinging arms and hands, kicks of the feet (floor layouts), and curious swipes of the cat's/dog's paw....among the reports.  Yes, they're very transportable and realistic.  No...with caveats...they're not as robust to play....especially rough play....as the main premise of Lionel advertising would encourage.

 

As for the "expensive" part?......shop around.  There is a variety of street and cyber prices out there.  Beware the garage-sale deal, though.  This accessory...unless for static display, only....is definitely one that needs all THREE pieces to operate, and should be demonstrated operable before buying!!

 

And, yet, as to the original request, it is, indeed, an excellent choice.

 

But, as always, that's just MHO/OHO.....FWIW.

 

KD

As KD mentioned, 30 plus years as a electrical contractor, in most cases when it gets beyond TWO wires, black and white, comprehension approaches zero.  IMO

 Mike CT  

But then I made a living beyond two wires.  

Mike CT,

I always wondered why the MTH crossing arms required a relay for operation? Shouldn't they pretty much be an "off-or-on" accessory that would only require power and an insulated rail?

What advantage or operational feature do they have that benefits from the relay?

Not my living, and I don't mind electronics projects with multiple wires... but that MTH RailKing setup would be waaaaay over the head of my 6yo son and would probably result in more frustration than fun! 

 

That said, Mike CT those details on the MTH were very complete and much appreciated!  Same goes to dkdkrd.  It gives me an idea of what to expect.

You're welcome.

Mike CT

 

I use and recommend the Gargraves / Z-stuff signals.    I sold all my MTH and related that need the relay for simplicity.    The Z-stuff signals which they have a few varieties that look prototypical to me,  use an infrared so wire it to power in front of the track you wish to cover and go.

 

Search Gargraves / Z-stuff crossing signals and you will be able to see all the varieties,  but specifically the crossing gate is model DZ-1010

 

 

 http://www.gargraves.com/files/Web-DZ-1010.gif

 

Mark