Steam engine goes dead after a few inches in either direction

It may be just a wheel cleaning and lubrication issue.

Never used before, I lubricated it some before I ran it, any other ideas?

Check for loose connecting rods.  Sometimes on larger engines a connecting rod can get loose and roll over the drive wheel.  It can lock up the wheels after an inch or so.  

Another big fleabay score.   Any chance it will have a 30-XXXX-1 number.   If it has a 5 volt board, the battery is important.   Are you saying you tried to fire the engine without even charging the battery.   The correct answer would be not to listen to the man who gave you advice.

You can have a film on the wheels and corrosion in Pickup pin despite a new engine, since it has sat for years.  So CLEAN the wheels and pickups, oil pickups.  After that the engine needs to be opened to inspect pickup wires good contact.  Especially ground wires with black screws.

Frankly I run into a significant number of engines that the roller looks fine, but internal corrosion has prevented good and consistent center rail pickup/continuity and I have to change the pickups and that fixes this type of problem.  G

Thank you I will try all of these things. Have to travel for a few days, when I get back. My engine is a 2-8-4 Berkshire Steam Engine NO: 30-1223-1. I will either buy new battery or charge the one in engine.  Clean wheels, pick up even though they look clean. and open engine and look at wires and connections.

What is best to clean wheels?

Leeg

Marty has the right plan, a new charged battery. don't risk the boards attempting to charge the antique one.

Also, this is happening on a straight piece of track?

It's indeed a 5V board, so unless you got this really cheap, fleaBay has bitten again!

As per Marty's suggestion replace the old battery. DO NOT RUN IT WITH THE OLD WHITE BATTERY!

Older PS2 – 5 volt system, round charging port. CHANGE OUT THE ORIGINAL WHITE BATTERY WITH THE GREEN MTH REPLACEMENT (9 volt battery type)

I second the battery diag.  I had a MTH goose that did that till a swapped the battery.

Consider yourself lucky if you didn't fry the boards. I learned the hard way. Killed 3 engines before I knew why. Luckily one fried right after I received it from a reputable dealer, fixed no charge. Not so with the other 2, over $200 to repair each. Those early PS2 engines are time bombs. Replace the white batteries with fully charged replacements.

Have green battery will replace it when I get back hope I didn’t fry board. Paid a bit over $200 for engine. Thanks!

A $12.00 investment is worth it. Sometimes the batteries come fully charged. It probably isn't if you had it for awhile.

I have over 20 MTH PS-2 engines and I checked every one. many had the older white batteries. I asked many questions about this issue and received some great advice. I suggest you go to the link below. It will save you in repair costs.

https://ogrforum.ogaugerr.com/...71#77734316109655571

Good luck,

Joe

Thank you I am changing to a green battery what about changing the PS2 engine to BCR is that complicated?

I bought a couple of BCR's on the recommendation of some forum members to try them out. I haven't used them yet, but my understanding is that you never have to worry about replacing them. The only thing you need to do is power up the track a minute or more to activate the BCR before you address the engine. They do cost more than twice the green battery. Whatever you do, replace that white battery before running that or any MTH PS2 engine! Go to the link below for the BCR's.

https://jandwelectronics.com/

If you read the topic completely, of the link I posted 2 replies ago, it should answer all or most of your questions or concerns. These engines are fairly sophisticated toys that probably won't out last many of us electronically. The point is, do a little preventive maintenance before powering up those older engines and you should be able to enjoy them for quite awhile. 

Good luck,

Joe

I would not buy a BCR for a 5-volt board, because the life expectancy of a 5-volt board is so low that you'll never amortize the cost.  Find a cheap 8.4 volt (not 7.2) "9-volt" rechargeable battery.  For brief testing, I'm told you can try a 9-volt alkaline---I never have.