Here is an "alternate" method of mounting the Kadee coupler box/coupler assembly on ANY manyfacturer's car:
1) Use a #44 dril bit to increase the hole sizes on the Kadee box.
2) Drill new a new hole/holes in the PROPER LOCATION (using the Kadee box as a guide/locator) with a #51 drill bit.
3) Using #2 X 1/2" round head stainless steel sheet metal (i.e. self taping) screws from Micro Fasteners (1-800-892-6917), screw the box to the underside of the car. Styrene shim stock from .125" thick up to .250" thick may be required. Simply drill the clearance hole in the shim with the same #44 drill bit.
Finally, for those of you trying to save the $16 for the Kadee "height gauge", DON"T TRY IT!!!! Your dealing with thousands of dollars worth of rolling stock, why skimp on one of the best little modeling aids available? Look carefully at Pete's photo above, and you will see that the rear end of the Kadee gauge even shows how much shim material you will need prior to mounting the coupler! That function alone has been a GREAT help when converting my steam locomotive tenders to Kadee couplers (I use 1/2" wide by .065" thick brass for that).
Former Member
Great idea! Love simple solutions. How well does body mounted kaydee's work with sharper curves?
DWS
DWS
quote:Originally posted by dws:
Great idea! Love simple solutions. How well does body mounted kaydee's work with sharper curves?
DWS
That is dependent on the length of your cars & engines and what you define as "small".
The gauge is also useful for bending the "air hose" to the proper height.
Not so important, perhaps, if you do not plan to use magnetic uncoupling,
but presumably important if you do.
Laid some of my first track last night. It was tricky because it was
a dual custom curves, 1% grade (1/2" over about 6' or so), and when I
rolled a car on it, it touched another and the couplers clicked together.
Too cool! Lots of switches on each end that need to be flat and level,
too. Nothing like starting simple :-)
Mike
Not so important, perhaps, if you do not plan to use magnetic uncoupling,
but presumably important if you do.
Laid some of my first track last night. It was tricky because it was
a dual custom curves, 1% grade (1/2" over about 6' or so), and when I
rolled a car on it, it touched another and the couplers clicked together.
Too cool! Lots of switches on each end that need to be flat and level,
too. Nothing like starting simple :-)
Mike
Former Member
quote:Originally posted by mwb:quote:Originally posted by dws:
Great idea! Love simple solutions. How well does body mounted kaydee's work with sharper curves?
DWS
That is dependent on the length of your cars & engines and what you define as "small".
The majority of my cars are 40' and I am using Atlas 45 curves. I have also read where the coupler can be attached to the trucks but prefer to have them body mounted.
DWS
quote:Originally posted by Hot Water:
Finally, for those of you trying to save the $16 for the Kadee "height gauge", DON"T TRY IT!!!!
I can't agree more. I got mine on discount for $12. It's the biggest bargain out there and the most important investment in 3RS you will make as far as I'm concerned.
quote:The majority of my cars are 40' and I am using Atlas 45 curves. I have also read where the coupler can be attached to the trucks but prefer to have them body mounted.
Its possible to modify the coupler shank and the box if necessary to get some more lateral movement. With such modifications, this car will negotiate 072 (36 inch radius curves).
By the way, this is a very good thread. Do we dare post a link over on the three rail forum?
Rich,
I think we can now. OK guys, the modifications are in, give it another look. What do you think? Remember, this is for those that have never done or never attempted anything like this. Do not want to intimidate! We want them to see how easy all this stuff rally is.
I think we can now. OK guys, the modifications are in, give it another look. What do you think? Remember, this is for those that have never done or never attempted anything like this. Do not want to intimidate! We want them to see how easy all this stuff rally is.
Pete,
I think this is ready for publication for the masses! I did notice one broken image link, but I don't know if it's just my lame home computer or not. In my recent 3R postings, I have seen less resistance to Kadee couplers than in the past. I think you certainly have a winner here.
Finally, thanks for the image and contact info for Micro-Mark shims. I've been cutting mine out of sheet styrene ... That will make life much better.
I think this is ready for publication for the masses! I did notice one broken image link, but I don't know if it's just my lame home computer or not. In my recent 3R postings, I have seen less resistance to Kadee couplers than in the past. I think you certainly have a winner here.
Finally, thanks for the image and contact info for Micro-Mark shims. I've been cutting mine out of sheet styrene ... That will make life much better.
quote:Originally posted by dws:quote:Originally posted by mwb:quote:Originally posted by dws:
Great idea! Love simple solutions. How well does body mounted kaydee's work with sharper curves?
DWS
That is dependent on the length of your cars & engines and what you define as "small".
The majority of my cars are 40' and I am using Atlas 45 curves. I have also read where the coupler can be attached to the trucks but prefer to have them body mounted.
DWS
With 40' cars you should have no problem but the larger cars may be an issue particualrly if you have "s" curves or some funky switching arrangements. The nature of the engine also is important, length & wheel arrangement(s).
I really like the combined effort here. It has been mention about truck mounted KD couplers. Dave C did a very nice post a few months ago on this subject.
Doubleheadering Steam with scale couplers Click on the underlined phrase to link.
This approach to scale couplers reduces O-72 (Radius 36") even further. You might pick up a few more converts with this info.
Pete:
We do have something in common. I like those New Balance shoes.
Best wishes all,
Mike CT
Doubleheadering Steam with scale couplers Click on the underlined phrase to link.
This approach to scale couplers reduces O-72 (Radius 36") even further. You might pick up a few more converts with this info.
Pete:
We do have something in common. I like those New Balance shoes.
Best wishes all,
Mike CT
I can't lose,
it's my shoes!
Think they'll ever do a commercial about how NBs can improve the modeler's stance with stronger torque for taking out screws?
I remember Mike, that was a great thread. You have given another great idea, a thread on truck mounted kadees on cars instead of engines.
Jon,
I'll fix the pic!
Al,
Can we get Rich to make one of those connecting double threads to both forums like the Train America Studio thread?
it's my shoes!
Think they'll ever do a commercial about how NBs can improve the modeler's stance with stronger torque for taking out screws?
I remember Mike, that was a great thread. You have given another great idea, a thread on truck mounted kadees on cars instead of engines.
Jon,
I'll fix the pic!
Al,
Can we get Rich to make one of those connecting double threads to both forums like the Train America Studio thread?
Great thread with some great tips. I pretty much follow Cape Cod Northerns advice and use the 2mm phillips head screws and drill out the Kadee's slightly. I end up cutting off the 3 rail coupler mount on the Atlas truck as well as I have no intention of going back.
My favorite Atlas car is the Single Sheathed Wood Boxcar. There are no mounting holes provided to fasten a Kadee. The Atlas 2 rail car uses a plastic mount secured by 2 screws and then the coupler attaches to this with 2 more. I'd suggest picking up a few if you want to convert this car.
Start by fastening the mount with some 2mm screws.
Use the front hole as your drill guide. Drill and tap for a 2mm or 2 56 thread. When thats done. Remove the Atlas mount and snug done the Kadee's coupler box. Square it up and drill and tap your second hole.
Now remove the rear of the Atlas mounting hole to accept the Kadee mounting holes. One shim is usually needed to get the right height. The mount isn't required to get the job done. But it sure is a handy template to get you started off with the first hole correctly drilled. In the end a thick shim is needed and it serves that purpose nicely.
While the cars Pete has shown are a great way to get started. When you start doing everything you own and making custom mounts. A drill press is a great investment. As well as a numbered set of small bits and taps.
My favorite Atlas car is the Single Sheathed Wood Boxcar. There are no mounting holes provided to fasten a Kadee. The Atlas 2 rail car uses a plastic mount secured by 2 screws and then the coupler attaches to this with 2 more. I'd suggest picking up a few if you want to convert this car.
Start by fastening the mount with some 2mm screws.
Use the front hole as your drill guide. Drill and tap for a 2mm or 2 56 thread. When thats done. Remove the Atlas mount and snug done the Kadee's coupler box. Square it up and drill and tap your second hole.
Now remove the rear of the Atlas mounting hole to accept the Kadee mounting holes. One shim is usually needed to get the right height. The mount isn't required to get the job done. But it sure is a handy template to get you started off with the first hole correctly drilled. In the end a thick shim is needed and it serves that purpose nicely.
While the cars Pete has shown are a great way to get started. When you start doing everything you own and making custom mounts. A drill press is a great investment. As well as a numbered set of small bits and taps.
This thread really needs to be saved.
quote:Originally posted by superwarp1:
This thread really needs to be saved.
Lots of luck with that idea --> http://ogaugerr.infopop.cc/eve...7104704/m/5881037364
Guys,
Give it another read, modified with your input and suggestions.
Give it another read, modified with your input and suggestions.
Sooo...
how many people use the pre-drilled holes from Atlas vs drilling their own to move the box back flush?
how many people use the pre-drilled holes from Atlas vs drilling their own to move the box back flush?
When using Kadee cuplers on 3-rai track, how well do your 40-, 50- and 60-foot cars couple together on 0-72 curves? If you are running the modern, longer rolling stock, how successful are you at backing your trains around 0-72 curves?
The CBS is a Transition era layout. We run mostly 40 ft cars, 4 axle diesel and Small steam. Only because this looks much better around 072 and 081 curves. Also gives the layout a much larger appearance. My kids do like the modern era of course. So I have plenty of larger 6 axle modern motive and 50 ft cars. Not too many cars larger than that, as again they don't look that good on my tight curves. However, we have never had a problem, kadee to kadee, doing anything.
Former Member
This is a wonderful set of Q & A; just what the doctor ordered, answering many of my questions . But my layout is largely 042 and 054 curves, with turnouts to match ( It's C shaped in 13 x 14). Any thoughts on the best way to use kadees in this sharp curve environment, using 40 foot cars, RS 3s, Geeps and SW1 switchers + Lionel 0-8-0,K-Line 0-6-0 and the like ( PRR & NYC, thank you very much). Also, are you converting the engines or using them as is, with KDs on the cars only ?
Thanks,
Rubin
Thanks,
Rubin