I have been using Evergreen styrene strips as shims. Depending on the installation, some cars take a .500" wide X .100" thick shim, and others require a .500" wide X .125" thick shim. Simply cut off a piece as long as the Kadee coupler box assembly. The Evergreen styrene is MUCH less expensive than those "ready made shims" anyway.
quote:Originally posted by Larry Neal:quote:Originally posted by Trevize:
I use these shims
Pete to date I haven't had a single truck come apart. While it is certainly possible that it can come apart with those screws out, I've never had an occurrence. With the high end atlas cars I'm buying there's a lot more that would break under rough handling anyway :-).
And... sure you've seen it before...
Why I like kadee couplers video
Apparently, Micromark no longer carries the Kadee shims based on the page that pops up when clicking on the link above. Might have to find something else or make your own shims.
The package of 60 shims is still available, I just ordered some and received a promotional discount. I think that Micromark stopped producing the package of 40 shims. Here is the link:
http://www.micromark.com/Searc...e+shims+(pkg.+of+60)
Nice post!
Good pictures!
Good pictures!
I've started to converting my rolling stock to Kadee.
A few modifications to others here. So far I haven't used to many shims. I've converted AtlasO and Weaver cars to date. Only a Weaver Caboose needed shims. Instead of using 2 X 1/2 wood screws I've been using 2 X 3/8 where no shims have been required and with Philips heads not slotted purchased from Micro Fasteners. The 3/8 length seems to work best for the gondolas and flat cars where I don't want a screw to pop up through the floor.
The issue I'm having now is with my new MTH rolling stock with the new couplers MTH is using. There so much to remove to get clearance for the Kadee box it doesn't seem worth it. May have to purchase trucks with out all the parts.
Any Ideas?
A few modifications to others here. So far I haven't used to many shims. I've converted AtlasO and Weaver cars to date. Only a Weaver Caboose needed shims. Instead of using 2 X 1/2 wood screws I've been using 2 X 3/8 where no shims have been required and with Philips heads not slotted purchased from Micro Fasteners. The 3/8 length seems to work best for the gondolas and flat cars where I don't want a screw to pop up through the floor.
The issue I'm having now is with my new MTH rolling stock with the new couplers MTH is using. There so much to remove to get clearance for the Kadee box it doesn't seem worth it. May have to purchase trucks with out all the parts.
Any Ideas?
quote:There so much to remove to get clearance for the Kadee box it doesn't seem worth it. May have to purchase trucks with out all the parts.
You are correct; just remove all that stuff from the truck. Besides, MTH doesn't offer 3-Rail trucks without the big claw anyway.
I'll have to do some cutting as well.
So the question is, is this enough, or is this just another step down the road toward the hard stuff- i.e. 2 rail? Because there is still that third rail. 
quote:Originally posted by Will:
So the question is, is this enough, or is this just another step down the road toward the hard stuff- i.e. 2 rail? Because there is still that third rail.
WHAT?!?!?! After all, this IS the 3RS forum, we have no qualms about the 3rd rail
I recently took some new Atlas caboose trucks apart to remove the claw coupler, it was not an easy task, much like what needs to be done to a Lionel truck.
Having a Kadee mounting pad is a start, but a big problem is the underframes and bolsters causing the cars to ride so high (for 3-rail wheel clearance) that sometimes it requires a large amount of shim to get the Kadees to the correct height.
I'm currently redoing a MTH caboose because I found I can flip the metal floor and lower the riding height of the car plus reducing the amount of shim. I noticed this on my other rolling stock, don't know why I didn't notice the caboose (may have been my first conversion and didn't know any better).
quote:I found I can flip the metal floor and lower the riding height of the car plus reducing the amount of shim.
Sounds interesting, which MTH caboose and what exactly do you mean?
marker,
Unfortunately I failed to write down the item number(s) of the cabeese when I bought them (I may have the sales slip though and will look later).
I have 3 MTH cabeese that I repainted/re-lettered for Seaboard Air line. 2 of them have metal floors that have a dimple where the trucks mount (the 3rd cab, a CA-1, doesn't have the same type floor). The one I flipped the metal floor on bears little resemblance to the original, I made new "plywood" sides for it so I could relocate the windows.
I simply turned it over on one of them, cut off the small bent-up sides (where the plastic battery box and brake gear are located) with a Dremel disk and reassembled the cab. I actually had to add a washer/spacer so the wheels wouldn't hit as the truck rotates.
I haven't done it yet to the 2nd cab and there's still a good 1/8" clearance between the wheels and the underframe.
The metal floor plate has large tabs at each end, I cut them off straight across so I could easily install mounting pads for the Kadees.
I'll post pix in a bit.
Unfortunately I failed to write down the item number(s) of the cabeese when I bought them (I may have the sales slip though and will look later).
I have 3 MTH cabeese that I repainted/re-lettered for Seaboard Air line. 2 of them have metal floors that have a dimple where the trucks mount (the 3rd cab, a CA-1, doesn't have the same type floor). The one I flipped the metal floor on bears little resemblance to the original, I made new "plywood" sides for it so I could relocate the windows.
I simply turned it over on one of them, cut off the small bent-up sides (where the plastic battery box and brake gear are located) with a Dremel disk and reassembled the cab. I actually had to add a washer/spacer so the wheels wouldn't hit as the truck rotates.
I haven't done it yet to the 2nd cab and there's still a good 1/8" clearance between the wheels and the underframe.
The metal floor plate has large tabs at each end, I cut them off straight across so I could easily install mounting pads for the Kadees.
I'll post pix in a bit.
Here's my 3 MTH "Seaboard" cabeese:
The one on the right was a CA-1 cab, it has a plastic "wood" floor:
The one on the left is the cab I replaced the sides on and flipped the metal floor:
If you look real good you can see the dimple on the floor is inward not outward:
You can see the shiny washers I used between the truck and metal floor.
if you look real close at where the end of the plastic underframe is you can see the cut I made to the bent-up side lip.
The 3rd cab hasn't had the floor flipped yet:
If you look closely you can see the dimple on the outside, just past the end of the Kadee box.
Here's another photo, you can see where I cut off the claw coupler:
Also, the one with the flipped plate has a red oxide/rust Kadee box on it, you can just see the end of the metal plate where I Dremeled it off.
The one with the black Kadee box still has the metal "tab" on it (not Dremeled off yet). The shim and Kadee boxes are super glued to the metal "tab". I plan on flipping this one soon.
Hope you can see what I'm talking about!
The one on the right was a CA-1 cab, it has a plastic "wood" floor:
The one on the left is the cab I replaced the sides on and flipped the metal floor:
If you look real good you can see the dimple on the floor is inward not outward:
You can see the shiny washers I used between the truck and metal floor.
if you look real close at where the end of the plastic underframe is you can see the cut I made to the bent-up side lip.
The 3rd cab hasn't had the floor flipped yet:
If you look closely you can see the dimple on the outside, just past the end of the Kadee box.
Here's another photo, you can see where I cut off the claw coupler:
Also, the one with the flipped plate has a red oxide/rust Kadee box on it, you can just see the end of the metal plate where I Dremeled it off.
The one with the black Kadee box still has the metal "tab" on it (not Dremeled off yet). The shim and Kadee boxes are super glued to the metal "tab". I plan on flipping this one soon.
Hope you can see what I'm talking about!
Pete,
I've done about 20 Atlas cars and was wondering how you can throw this one key part of the coupler away?
in
I can't see how your trucks are staying together without this piece as this is the backbone to the Atlas truck. What I have been doing is removing the coupler at the screw and either cutting the end off or taking to vise grips and tearing off the end. then re-installing it.
I've done about 20 Atlas cars and was wondering how you can throw this one key part of the coupler away?
in
I can't see how your trucks are staying together without this piece as this is the backbone to the Atlas truck. What I have been doing is removing the coupler at the screw and either cutting the end off or taking to vise grips and tearing off the end. then re-installing it.
Gary,
That specific piece you are holding in the photo, really doesn't keep the whole truck together. What holds the truck together are the two flat head machine screws, which you removed to get THAT piece out. Simply put those two flat head screws back in place if you don't want to re-install that lobster claw holding piece.
That specific piece you are holding in the photo, really doesn't keep the whole truck together. What holds the truck together are the two flat head machine screws, which you removed to get THAT piece out. Simply put those two flat head screws back in place if you don't want to re-install that lobster claw holding piece.
Ok, and what are you screwing into? Nothing except the plastic brake detail underneath(and I don't think they are long enough to even do that). The only thing holding the truck together are the springs.
I'll post pics of what I'm talking about after the upgrade but please check it out for your self.
I'll post pics of what I'm talking about after the upgrade but please check it out for your self.
Gary,
If you refer to the photo you posted, above, look at the red painted truck to the right in that photo. You can plainly see the threaded hole that one of those flat head machine screws threads into.
If you refer to the photo you posted, above, look at the red painted truck to the right in that photo. You can plainly see the threaded hole that one of those flat head machine screws threads into.
and what is it holding together when you install the screw. Really take one of your trucks off one of your cars and look at it closely. Try flexing the two sides and tell me what happens?
Putting these two screw back in is doing nothing without the top piece with it.
The screw is not holding the bottom bar which held in place by the springs on each side.
Putting these two screw back in is doing nothing without the top piece with it.
The screw is not holding the bottom bar which held in place by the springs on each side.
I guess Pete is just going to have to explain it to us?
Boy I hope this is the last time I have to use photobucket.
This is the way I do them.
As you can see without the cross bar and screws installed, the screw itself is not holding anything together.
Ok this is what I do: I remove the coupler
Clamp on with vise grips and bend.
You can either install as is or grind it smooth
re-install cross bar and put on your rolling stock.
If you don't do this and you press down on the car as these trucks have spring action, the sides might go flying or it may never happen. Anyway I would recommend this for the Atlas trucks
I'm not trying to prove anybody wrong just trying to help out the team.
This is the way I do them.
As you can see without the cross bar and screws installed, the screw itself is not holding anything together.
Ok this is what I do: I remove the coupler
Clamp on with vise grips and bend.
You can either install as is or grind it smooth
re-install cross bar and put on your rolling stock.
If you don't do this and you press down on the car as these trucks have spring action, the sides might go flying or it may never happen. Anyway I would recommend this for the Atlas trucks
I'm not trying to prove anybody wrong just trying to help out the team.
Gary
Thank you for this insight. I ran into this today and came to the same solution you did. I hope Pete K still lets us in on his Lionel truck secret.I don't see any way around cutting/grinding/snipping etc. Thanks again for the pics.
Ray Marion
Thank you for this insight. I ran into this today and came to the same solution you did. I hope Pete K still lets us in on his Lionel truck secret.I don't see any way around cutting/grinding/snipping etc. Thanks again for the pics.
Ray Marion
quote:Originally posted by Ray Marion:
Gary
Thank you for this insight. I ran into this today and came to the same solution you did. I hope Pete K still lets us in on his Lionel truck secret.I don't see any way around cutting/grinding/snipping etc. Thanks again for the pics.
Ray Marion
Ray,
Concerning the Lionel truck "secret sic.", the problem occures when Kadee #805 couplers & boxes are used, because all that clap-trap steel stuff on the Lionel truck interferes with the rear of the Kadee box, when the truck rotates. When the "short box" Kadee couplers (#806 I think) are used, you do NOT have to cut all that crap off the Lionel truck.
Since I have long been using the Kadee #805 couplers (I purchase them in bulk), I have also had to use the Dremel to cut all that crap off the few Lionel cars/trucks I have up-graded, just as Laidoffsick has shown, above.
